Andrew Posted September 1, 2022 Share Posted September 1, 2022 This is a guide on how to change the front brake disc and pads on all F10, F11 and F07 models. The only difference between the models is the physical size of the disc and pads. The smaller brakes use a 7mm Allen key for the caliper slide bolts and the 348 x 36 discs (on the 535i) need a 9mm Allen key for the slide bolts. I had to go out and buy a 9mm Allen key specifically for this job as very few tool sets have a 9mm Allen key! Tools needed 17mm socket 18mm socket E16 Torx socket 6mm Allen Key 9mm Allen Key or 7mm Allen Key Pry bar Ratchet Breaker bar Torque wrench – 140Nm wheel bolts Piston retract tool Brake bleeding equipment Parts needed Nearside disc 34116785669 Offside disc 34116785670 Pads and wear sensor (Value line) 34112449268 Jack up the front axle of the car and support it. See this post on how to do that. Remove each road wheel to expose the brakes. Prevent the disc from turning while you slacken the brake discs securing screw with a 6mm Allen key Prize out the two rubber bungs on each caliper slide bolts. That’s the two 18mm hex caliper cradle bolts to the right in the picture. Pry out the caliper spring clip Ease up the clips holding the wear sensor wiring in place on the nearside only on the front axle. Unclip the wear sensor wiring from the various brackets and clips Follow the wiring up to the junction box on the wheel arch liner/inner wing and unplug the sensor. The is the other end of the wear sensor, it is clipped into the inner pad on the offiside. Using the 9mm Allen key undo the two caliper slide bolts, you might need a pair of long nosed pliers to help fish them out of the rubber sleeves Prize up the caliper out of its cradle, it might need a bit off wiggling to get the pads past any lip on the disc. Slacken the 18mm caliper cradle bolts and remove them from the hub carrier. I’m supporting the caliper on an upturned builders bucket. Using a 11mm spanner crack open the bleed screw so that when you push back the pistons…. …the old fluid goes out of the system rather than pushed back into it. Ready for fitting the new pads now that the piston is pushed fully home. Clean up the hub mating face. This wants to be as clean and smooth as possible to prevent any complaints about vibration under braking. Now is also a good time to debate about replacing the brake splash shields and inspect your wheels bearing for noise now that it isn’t restricted by any brakes. I used my wheel alignment pins and a wheel bolt to help line up the new disc so that it sits squarely on the larger shoulder of the bearing hub face. Start the disc retaining screw with a 6 mm Allen key. Before refitting the caliper cradle clean it up and lubricate the contact points with the new pads with the correct grease. I used Copperslip, and I can hear the purists on here tutting. I’ve used it sparingly and never had an issue. When my 20 year old pot of copperslip ran out and to prevent any possible galvanic corrosion, I have since changed to ceramic grease. Fit the outer pad onto the cradle, picture above shows the outer pad contact points on the cradle. Tighten the caliper cradle retaining bolts to 110Nm Clean up the slide bolts, clip the inner pad to the piston and lift the caliper back onto the cradle and over the outer pad. Tighten the slide bolts to 55Nm if it’s the 9mm Allen key or 30Nm if it’s the 7mm Allen Key slide bolts. On the nearside, clip in the new pad wear sensor to the pad and re-route the cable to the plug and shut over the weatherproof box. Tighten disc retaining screw to 16Nm. Refit road wheel and road test. I checked the temperature of both the discs and they were more or less equal so no binding or out of balance forces. Brake pedal was firm and no vibration was felt. Only fit for weighing in. Probably best these were changed just before the MOT. OEM pads are Galfer 5027. I'd never heard of this make before. The genuine ones I fitted were also Galfer. With the new pad wear sensor fitted, it is now possible to reset the idrive service requirement. See this post on how to do that. This was done back in January 2019. I also changed the brake fluid in the front calipers at the time. See this post on how to do that I have since removed the brakes again to do the wheel bearing so there is some better pictures in this thread below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kopfjaeger Posted September 13, 2022 Share Posted September 13, 2022 Very helpful. I've attached a quote I've received via BMW for my F07, from a relatively local dealership in London. Si you can see how much you might save by going down the DIY route. Last time I checked their hourly rates they were £200. So £496 for a pad change all round, rising to £1170, including discs! So, is this typical, or on the high side? I haven't asked any local independent specialists for quotes yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kopfjaeger Posted September 13, 2022 Share Posted September 13, 2022 I've also run some checks for prices at dealerships outside London, with the expectation they would be cheaper. Well I was wrong, Southend, St Albans, Milton Keynes and Birmingham were all more expensive? Does anyone have any recommendations for independent specialists for this work in London / South East UK? (Assuming this doesn't breach forum rules). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted September 13, 2022 Author Share Posted September 13, 2022 £150 each for the discs £150 for pads and wear sensor £200 labour (an hour) Yeah you could get to those prices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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