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What did you do to your F10, F11 or F07 today?


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I wanted a genuine screen, which the insurance agreed. A list of excuses from the glass company:

The screen arrived from bmw damaged

The replacement glass hasn't arrived from Germany

The engineer has gone sick and won't be able to make the appointment

I  contacted my insurance who told me to take it direct to bmw and it was done in 2 days.

My neighbour told me they will pay soon. Do I believe her....🤔 

Just glad to be back in my car 

 

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On 30/07/2024 at 21:53, skyjawa said:

You can also use this to see what’s going on with the coolant temp. Should get up to temp and stay rock steady….

@skyjawa I took the car for a long drive last night. The coolant temp swayed between 85 and 98C

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@mullinsj08 That defo sounds like a dodgy thermostat then.

At most it might fluctuate on the display by a degree or two but not that much…..

since you’ve done the glow plugs and module I reckon that will be the cause of poor mpg. (At least I hope so as that’s probably the last item on the easy fix list lol). 🙂

Edited by skyjawa
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I was hunting down an additional drive flange so that if I run into problems replacing my rear wheel bearings I have a spare.

After having had a few beers I bought this from eBay.

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For the princely sum of £23.99 I got a complete hub and suspension arm assembly, with caliper, disc and handbrake actuator.

That was £23.99 delivered, next day too! How anyone made money on that?????

All I'm after is the drive flange but I can get some entertainment value out of stripping it all down.

Yes I need to get out more.....

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1 hour ago, duncan-uk said:

586 brisk miles.

Nice going, in what time frame?

Took me 3 hours to do 70 miles recently thanks to the M6 being shut completely in both directions…..

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IMG-6242.jpg

Pulled a very unwanted fault code today!

Oh bother, or words to similar effect but a trifle stronger. 

I need a new water pump. N55 engine 67.3k miles 11.5 years old.

 

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Had a little play with my diagnostic machine to see if I can tell the gearbox ECU that it’s had an oil change.

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which it can, option 4 by the looks of things. I reckon it probably opens up some valves etc to allow oil to fully flow around all its parts.

I’ve seen a ZF 8HP service kit for £195 (delivered) which is a great buy for the genuine stuff. 

But I’ve a water pump to pay for and fit before doing any of that.

At least I got confirmation from Opie Oils today that my ‘stat and temp sensor have been shipped. 

 

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Nothing cos it’s broken 

But I did get some tinkering time done on my mates 1971 Reliant Scimitar GTE

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Helped fettle up a period AA badge to fit to the grill. 

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After Mr Postman brought me one of these

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and one of these

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I set about tackling the thermostat and water pump replacement job.

I've had a few hoses to go in so I started with that lot tonight until it got dark and I need to go and find my 6mm spanner which is in my train set tool box as I've never needed anything that small to work on a car....

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Old top hose out.

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Removing the hoses off the radiator, this one my fingertip is lifting up the clip is one of the hoses to the transmission oil to water cooler. The one above is the hose to the auxiliary radiator. I'm going to flush the system so pulled off the hoses. 

Debating removing the radiator to make a bit more room to get the pump out and to prevent it being damaged. It's not essential but slightly corroded radiator screws buried deep the side of the radiator which have some nice corrosion to their T20 heads have slowed me down and will need a re-think if I want to take the radiator out.

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Front lower radiator hose clip is accessible with a 6mm socket and 1/4" ratchet, but the rear worm drive clamp no chance as there is an aircon line in the way.  A 6mm ratchet flex head spanner would be ideal here.

 

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Cracked on with the water pump strip down tonight with my dad to help.

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On my dads advice I bought a long T20 screw driver

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to get to the radiator fixing screws that were nicely corroded. 

Which meant after a bit of a wrestle we got...

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the radiator out, needs a clean!

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Many many connections to the cooling circuits.

And after much more wrestling to get the thermostat out....

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and coolant running down my sleeve..

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The old thermostat was out.

All that's left is to remove the water pump.  Three bolts, another hose clip and an electrical connector.

 

 

 

 

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Ordered some replacement screws for the radiator housing.

Part #4

They are the same ones that hold the intercooler in place which are T25 heads but the intercooler ones were less rusty so a T25 screwdriver worked. A T20 was used to get them out. 

I’ll collect later today. 

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Finally managed to get my BMW Advanced Eye 2.0 working again

My first one went pop after 3 years, looks like a common issue, image goes all dark with lines across.  Anyway, found a replacement on eBay used.  Received it in the post, slid it into my existing screen mounted shoe still stuck to the screen with the existing wiring but it still has the previous owners setup in it so need to factory reset.  Searched everywhere, no clear instructions anywhere.  Figured it out in the end myself.

Update the firmware and the wifi settings will reset.

Turn the unit off
Remove SD card (32GB)
Format in your laptop as Fat32
Download the firmware file straight to the root of the newly formatted SD card.  Here
Power on the unit without the SD until she asks for it!
Insert SD and wait a moment, unit will reboot itself
Green and red LEDs will flash for up to 7 minutes.  Do not touch, be patient.  Power down will turn it into junk
When the lights stop, give it a minute
Connect using the default wifi app on your phone to the BMWACE2.0 wifi and 1234567890 as the key
Open the Ace app
It will prompt you to change the defaults here, I just add a zero to the end of the current key
Then you can get into the Ace app and perform a factory reset at the bottom of the configure page

Job done

http://www.advancedcareye.com/FW/

Lots of people slate the BMW one but all dash cams are fundamentally flawed by a simple wet windscreen so say what you will.

Cheers Ladies

Hope this helps someone

Daren

 

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Got home too late from work to do much more on the car tonight. Partly because I took a detour to the dealer to pick up the screws I'd ordered this morning.

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Cleaned the coolant off my tools and cleaned a few of the parts I removed.

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Flushed out the radiator. Ran nice and clear.

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There is a big hole in the engine bay.

 

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8 hours ago, Steve84N said:

I love how much space there is to work in a 5 with a six and the fan removed. 

Except not when it comes to the thermostat!

I struggled to get my meat hooks into the gaps between the chassis leg and air con rigid  (bolted down) lines, despite removing the holding down bolt for the thermostat, which in its self is hindered by the hose and hose clamps. 
 

But doing timing chain would be easy after that lot is removed 

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It's out!

Without having to drop the front anti roll bar.

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No obvious debris, impeller still firmly attached to shaft.

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Flushed out the auxiliary radiator. 

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Again can't see anything untoward.  Will take it to bits once the new one is installed.

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A collection of some of the old parts removed to be replaced.

Let the re-build commence tomorrow, hopefully....

 

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1 hour ago, Steve84N said:

it's a lot easier with the ARB swung down. 

I've watched two videos on Youtube and certainly one guy drops the ARB, but he still lifts the pump up and out the same way I got mine out.

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I'm curious to know what it achieves other than making it easier undoing the lower pump bolts but I was happy enough doing that.  

I found the steering rack to be more of a hinderance than the ARB for getting to the hoses at the rear of the pump.

Ironically, I have the ARB mounting bolts so I can fettle up the rust on the bar.....

It proves that everyone sees the job differently, but I figured I'd take the radiator out to flush it and clean the fins which were quite clogged.

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Yeh, it's mostly just ease of access to the various bolts and clamps. Mine came out the top too, with the radiator in place but fan removed. 

As you know, they can be tricky to fill properly afterwards. My coolant level kept going down for quite a long time after I changed the top hose. I thought I had a leak but it was just lots of little airlocks I think. I should've vacuum filled it but it wasn't empty so many topups was easier overall. 

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