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What did you do to your F10, F11 or F07 today?


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3 hours ago, Andrew said:

My rear pads according to the iDrive have 60k remaining.  Aye righto.

So a new sensor will be fitted with the new pads and discs but I won't even attempt to reset the iDrive, my E60 rear brakes were the same, loads of distance according to the computer but not to my eye. New sensor in and just left iDrive be.

Interesting. When I reset mine for the new rears it was 47k and 40k for fronts. 

Also when I bought mine it said new pads in 3k. That never really dropped in 12k though I’m not hard on the brakes generally.

By visual inspection mine were due but not spent, though I’m happier with more meat on the pads. 

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On 25/04/2024 at 20:33, Andrew said:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116091456693

Don't say I'm not good to you....😉

I think it depends on your luck, the first Chineseium ones I bought lasted reasonably well but the last lot I got, were poor. Bought this time of year two years ago for £7.59

When I need new rear tyres I'll get the rims refurbed and treat them to OEM ones.  

Yes, the originals degrade too perhaps just not as quickly. 

The question is tho, will a genuine set at £40 last 5 times as long as the ones I've just bought at £8 a set?

Mine centre caps (Etsy) are obviously not genuine but are 12 months old just now and have started to go off round the edges

More importantly, my wheels were refurb exchanges (3 years) and I think I can see a little bubbling corrosion on the last one here

IMG_2236.jpeg

IMG_2235.jpeg

IMG_2234.jpeg

IMG_2233.jpeg

Edited by F10-65
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20 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

Had to drive mine today in foul weather - its dirty again 😡

Just given mine a wash and dry after work and a bird shat on the rear window just as I finished shampooing it

Flippin' 'eck!

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21 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

Don't know how you sleep at night 😢

I do struggle.

I have a 9 year old that suffers from nightmares and a 3 year old who just doesn’t sleep…..

More likely to snooze in front of the tv in the early evening 🫣

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Admission time; I've been having a right mare getting the alignment done since the suspension was replaced.

The usual place I use in Southampton had 3 goes but now the steering wheel is slightly off to the right and the steering is vague. It was straight and the steering had nice weight before I gave it to him.

I had a local BMW specialist (TWG Automotive) look at it and they said the suspension is fine but the tie rods are past their best and it looks like the place in Southampton were really wrenching on them creating loads of deep scratches on the nuts.

So on their advice, I have ordered a set of Lemforder tie rods and steering rack gaiters.

They also gave the car a once-over and advised me to get a new coolant expansion tank cap.

Once all that is sorted I will bring it back to TWG for them to carry out the alignment.

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4 hours ago, Andrew said:

My genuine fake caps arrived 

IMG-5018.jpg
 

Just to fit the summer wheels, the rear brakes and change the brake fluid now.

Or are they fake genuine? 🤔

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Changed out the OSR shock absorber to have a matching pair from my MOT failure last month, of course this time much quicker to get it all out but then.... as usual this one had siezed top nut and thread from rust... plus gas soak and then try again and allen key started to slip..

Out with the drill 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and that released the nut from the thread, and the old shock came away from top mount.

Cleaned the top mount up with wire brush and then applied new oring with a little light grease, new bolts all round and new bumpstop and cover. 

All back on and torqued to spec, and suspension self level completed, short test drive all is well.

Next job is yearly (6-7k with my mileage) oil and filter change on both 5er and 1er!

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On 28/04/2024 at 19:45, Munzy said:

BMW Badges & Wheel badges (cyled.co.uk)

They look like proper (maybe even better than!) genuine BMW ones - the Ms are silver not grey like some of the ones I got on eBay.

image.thumb.png.c0f297b0d805de0037a9dcd00f5dfcea.png

 

 

Got them through today...

IMG_2239.thumb.jpeg.d681cacba2fe4f18db45fb47c4e9c9c0.jpeg

 

So wheels off this weekend for a good clean inside and out and I've got all the stuff to do my first oil change.  Lets hope the weather is good Saturday morning.

 

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On 01/05/2024 at 18:36, Andrew said:

My genuine fake caps arrived 

IMG-5018.jpg
 

Just to fit the summer wheels, the rear brakes and change the brake fluid now.

Are they 68mm to fit the 351M alloy?

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2 hours ago, F10-65 said:

Are they 68mm to fit the 351M alloy?

Yup 

68mm is what you need for all E and F chassis. Doesn’t matter what style of alloy it is. 

The newer 5ers have a smaller 5x112 PCD and have a smaller centre spigot so you can’t swap wheels without a phaff.  Ours are 5x120.

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17 hours ago, Andrew said:

Yup 

68mm is what you need for all E and F chassis. Doesn’t matter what style of alloy it is. 

The newer 5ers have a smaller 5x112 PCD and have a smaller centre spigot so you can’t swap wheels without a phaff.  Ours are 5x120.

Why have they gone to 112pcd? Another reason to deny their past?

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2 minutes ago, duncan-uk said:

Why have they gone to 112pcd? Another reason to deny their past?

The only reason I can think of is to make the wheel hub smaller. Less hub means less weight, less weight is less unsprung mass for better driving dynamics and to save tuppence on fuel every other month.
 

It’s quite obvious when I see my dad’s G01 wheels. 

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Just done my first oil/filter and air change at home myself. 

It came out looking like this...

IMG_2240.thumb.jpeg.b44c9dc61aaab4a41ac1228cf1a95615.jpeg

 

I started the car after the change and once the temp looked like this BimmerLink reported this... Is it what should be?

IMG_2242.thumb.jpeg.87560a64fd0949f336f2bc81791e4774.jpegIMG_2241.thumb.png.dc47dafe36eac3a074653132f4462f81.png

 

 

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Posted (edited)

@F10-65 Car oil temp looks correct, I would hope Bimmerlink is not correct, oil pressure and temp readings are dead (are you sure you have it configured for the right car?)

I dont use Bimmerlink so cant help you there, I use Bimmer-Tool/Bimmer-Code/ISTA+

NOTE: Oil changes on diesels, oil is always very black nature of the beast.. high compression ratios and EGR into intake to redigest makes oil black within 50miles.

Edited by Percha
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1 hour ago, Percha said:

@F10-65 Car oil temp looks correct, I would hope Bimmerlink is not correct, oil pressure and temp readings are dead (are you sure you have it configured for the right car?)

I dont use Bimmerlink so cant help you there, I use Bimmer-Tool/Bimmer-Code/ISTA+

NOTE: Oil changes on diesels, oil is always very black nature of the beast.. high compression ratios and EGR into intake to redigest makes oil black within 50miles.

Thanks Percha, Cool with the black and it was still highly viscous which I think is the main reason for changing the oil on these engines more regular than BMW suggest.  I'll check the BimmerLink again but I'm sure I chose the right model.

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Gents

At my last MOT in July 23 although I passed without advisory he noted a brake imbalance.  What should I be looking at before it goes in this July?

mot.thumb.png.04d482752a3f6fe9f904af2e5c21d534.png

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