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What did you do to your F10, F11 or F07 today?


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39 minutes ago, bmwmike said:

Sold it 😞

Someone's gonna get a great car, the n53 engine is a peach and very underrated in my opinion. Maintained by me for the last 7 years but I felt the time had come for a change. Dunno what yet though 😎

 

Sold my N57 3.0d a month ago. Struggling to find a replacement. G30's 6 cylinders are all high 20k for a good spec car.

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3 hours ago, McBeemer said:

Sold my N57 3.0d a month ago. Struggling to find a replacement. G30's 6 cylinders are all high 20k for a good spec car.

Yes this is what I struggle with the G30/G31's they are nice looking but the car is so similar to my F11 with similar spec, its all just a bit newer which carries such a large premium

Edited by Percha
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8 hours ago, bmwmike said:

Sold it 😞

Someone's gonna get a great car, the n53 engine is a peach and very underrated in my opinion. Maintained by me for the last 7 years but I felt the time had come for a change. Dunno what yet though 😎

 

They certainly will Mike, how much did you get for it?

Not tempted with an M5? 😉 

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12 hours ago, Percha said:

Yes this is what I struggle with the G30/G31's they are nice looking but the car is so similar to my F11 with similar spec, its all just a bit newer which carries such a large premium

Must admit I prefer, strongly, the F10 inside. The outside, g30 does look more modern but in the right colour the F10 has lovely lines.  

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7 hours ago, MLAM said:

They certainly will Mike, how much did you get for it?

Not tempted with an M5? 😉 

Hello! Enjoying the 535d still?

Not sure yet. I may get something not BMW.

Sold via a autotrader instant offer, which I'm happy with but was very much a head heart as I know it needed some ££ work coming up which skewed the balance in favour of disposal rather than keeping.

Not willing to say exactly how much but it was less than 10k and a lot more than WBAC.  I am happy with what they paid considering they came to me, inspected, had a nice chat, and money in my bank account straight away. Only problem is the car is still sat outside on the street awaiting collection so if I look down the road a little I can still see it lol.

As is traditional I now have a collection of F10 parts which id bought and never fitted, and spare wheels, to accompany the large box of brand new e46 parts I'd bought and never fitted before selling the car. Doh. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by bmwmike
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6 hours ago, bmwmike said:

Hello! Enjoying the 535d still?

Not sure yet. I may get something not BMW.

Sold via a autotrader instant offer, which I'm happy with but was very much a head heart as I know it needed some ££ work coming up which skewed the balance in favour of disposal rather than keeping.

Not willing to say exactly how much but it was less than 10k and a lot more than WBAC.  I am happy with what they paid considering they came to me, inspected, had a nice chat, and money in my bank account straight away. Only problem is the car is still sat outside on the street awaiting collection so if I look down the road a little I can still see it lol.

As is traditional I now have a collection of F10 parts which id bought and never fitted, and spare wheels, to accompany the large box of brand new e46 parts I'd bought and never fitted before selling the car. Doh. 

 

 

 

 

 

Gold membership and you can advertise both boxes of parts here 😉

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1 hour ago, duncan-uk said:

Gold membership and you can advertise both boxes of parts here 😉

Nah they'll just sit on the shelf gathering dust thanks anyway. I dare say my next car will also net me some brand new spare parts that I will add to the collection.

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@F10-65

Galfer are oem for the F10

I fitted Textar to my E60 rear and E39 fronts. They were oem on those models which is why I went with them. You can get them from Euro car parts or Autodoc. 

Autodoc is good for getting different manufacturers parts after getting the BMW part numbers from realoem first. 

 

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This working from home is great.

During today's lunch hour and 15 mins I managed to change the oil, oil filter, air filter, micro filter and reset the service icon after doing a sweep for fault codes.  All good apart from the known AUC sensor.

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Ramps make it easier for getting under and altering the height of the car to allow oil to drain out.

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Lovely new clean filter.  Think I paid £6 for this from Amazon

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The worst of the muck that got trapped after 1 year and 1,946 miles.  It didn't need replacing, but as it only cost me £11 from Autodoc why would you not replace it.

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Longest individual part of the service is contorting yourself in the passenger footwell to get to the pollen filters. £18 from Autodoc.

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Oil was £32 for 4 litres from Amazon.

I've spent more recently filling it up than servicing it.  Why would you not do it?

Other than the oil filter housing cap, the only slightly special tools are a T25 screw driver for the air filter housing and a T20 screw driver for the pollen filter housing.

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Replaced the oil filter housing gasket and the O-ring on the cooler yesterday and cleaned the side of the engine underneath it, was properly oily and now I see why it failed the MOT last year on oil leaks.

While sitting on the floor in front of it I noticed the front bumper is fitted really badly so will have to get that sorted next year once it's warmer 🙄

 

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17 hours ago, bmwmike said:

Is that new oil filter going in dry 😱

Yup, it's how I've always done it. Which yes, doesn't make it right but, I've not had an issue.  Engine certainly sounded sweet on the test drive.

Different story when you take the oil filter housing off to do the gaskets when you need to prime the oil pump

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2366405-Is-BMW-having-engine-problems-after-replacing-oil-filter-housing

You then need to prime the oil pump by turning the engine over without any fuel being delivered into the cylinders from the injectors.

I think there is effectively a U bend in the oil filter housing that helps trap oil up near the filter so as soon as the pump is spinning it's up to pressure and the oil trapped in the U bend is then forced into the filter and then on to the main galleries.

I have to let my engine idle to warm up after an oil change before I can even measure the oil level using the idrive.  So the engine has time to circulate all the oil before any load from a test drive is put on it.

Although I'm always listening for knocks on the immediate idle after an oil change.

When doing the metal canister types, I've always primed them as they've been ones hang downwards so oil will stay in it, this one is the wrong way up so oil will just drain back out.

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Each to their own but i'd never put an oil filter in dry. It takes no effort to soak a bit of oil into it, they usually take a good glugg easily, sucked into the paper pleats, no mess. Saying that, i do also suck out the dirty oil from underneath the filter and from the galleries and clean it all before adding new oil, so maybe i'm just OCD.  

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Well I suppose having to top the oil up after doing the check means its then fully filled everywhere it needs to do.

Believe me, I'd make a mess holding an oil soaked paper filter over my engine bay, I'm not that lucky.

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Have now had car 4 years and decided it needed more power, 53000 miles

cold start off (for the neighbours)

Also found car had a lot of extras I wasn't aware of.

Stage2 engine + Stage3 Gearbox = 420hp 480lb/ft

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Edited by Snakle535i
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Wasn't today however Sunday I got the chance to swap out the front brakes in the hope it may improve the front end vibration I've had on light braking for a while.

When I was back in blighty last I had the discs checked... no warp. Disc surfaces cleaned, pads cleaned and suspension checked. Upshot... no difference 😒

In hope I got a set of Ridex discs... missed the fact they're drilled in the description, already had a new set of ATE standard pads, so as sonntag was dry, I did the deed.

Quick 40 minutes then off for a test drive.... braking smooth and straight. 😁 Tested now from light touching at speed to positive braking at 190kmh and no hint of vibration.

I can only assume there was some kind of surface defect on the old ATE discs given there was no warp or steering wobble, but not a problem any more. 😎

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20 hours ago, F10-65 said:

What was the mileage on the old discs?

Due to events out east the car hasn't had much use this year so they only had around 2000km on them. Part of why the vibration didn't make sense along with it being 'even', ie no warp wobble.

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After a thorough interior clean last week The Princess had her winter wash and wax today - still a looker 😘

Glad to get the rear driver side wheel back on after a nail in the tyre (so glad of the £7.50 National Tyre Insurance!). Had been driving around with three 19" and one 17" on - yeeeuch.

Big change is that I have bought an electric scooter to commute to work (3.6 miles on mostly back roads) and in the last three weeks only driven the F11 at the weekend. Makes me appreciate its class even more, is saving me a fortune in fuel, from £280 to be on track for just £100 per month and obviously way less wear and tear, hopefully meaning I will be keeping it for even longer 😀

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Edited by Munzy
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  • 2 weeks later...

Replaced discs n pads all round. Well I farmed the job out… didnt fancy messing about with the motors on the handbrake or those pesky disc retaining bolts - in the cold n wet…

Bought Ridex cheapies full car kit from Autodoc. The courier scored their best ever result for sh*t treatment of a parcel. Luckily nothing fragile inside and discs are in a sealed bag in their boxes.7EAFE037-47F5-4E8E-B416-A82D9803446D.thumb.jpeg.240b0aace6dc2db799b6ba474d4911a2.jpeg

the old rears we’re using just a 1cm patch of disc so noticeably improved brakes. fwiw these crumbling discs passed the mot roller test! 

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Mine had its 10k oil change yesterday.  I supply the right oil and my local indy supplies the filter and the change.  Comes back even quieter than before.  They reset the service indicator to the official 18k then I know when it reads 8k to the next service I book her in again for oil.

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