duncan-uk Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 1 hour ago, Andrew said: Failing battery Broken battery negative lead Water leak into boot Condensation building up in nearside front headlight Wobbly wing mirrors Yup. These 'popped up' on mine since New Year. Speak to Sandip 🤭 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Percha Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 MOT today, unfortunately a fail - Leaking NSR shock, Sachs (OEM) ordered with good discount from Carparts4less so will try and fit it up this weekend its been a while since I have been working on the car so will be nice job to do. Seems pretty simple 3 bolts at top, 1 large bolt at the bottom, any pointers/information @Andrewas I believe you did this for your friends F11 @VPCAPTAIN? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 (edited) @Percha it's a very easy job. Have a second jack handy so you can adjust the height of the arm to get the damper eye bolt in. It's 28Nm for the top bolts and 165Nm for the bottom one (torqued whilst on the ground). I was able to reach under with a ratchet with the car on the ground to get it nipped up and then lifted it again for the full torque. Consider replacing the dust boot and bump stop at the same time if they are old. The bump stop in particular falls to pieces over time. Also, the top mount depending on mileage. I'm sure you know but should be replaced on both sides at the same time. Edited March 20 by Steve84N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Percha Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 (edited) Thanks @Steve84N I had forgotten about NewTIS so just checked there for procedure and torque settings. At the moment I am just changing one side to get MOT passed, and NewTIS states both sides do not need to be changed if they are not faulty. I will probably do the other side as preventative though in the coming months as on 95k (so more than the 100000km where it states to change both!) Also FYI top mounts are 28Nm not 35Nm (excerpt below for all on Torque settings) I will pickup shock tomorrow from local depot and wanted to check what comes with it, and buy the neccessary (dust cover and bumpstop if not included. Edited March 20 by Percha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 @Percha haha I was being lazy and trying to recall the torque specs from memory, thanks for correcting me. Initial reply edited. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Percha Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Whats 7Nm between forum members 😆 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 It’s much easier than an F10 rear shock that’s for sure. Lower bolt needs replacing and runs front to back so easy to get to it to torque it. Use second jack to lift hub the ride height before torquing lower bolt. we replaced everything, top mount bump stop and o ring that isolates top mount from the body 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 Oh and shocks should be replaced in pairs. 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Percha Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 7 minutes ago, Andrew said: Oh and shocks should be replaced in pairs. 👍 Yep see my NewTIS excerpt above, not always the case.. Its IRS so I guess thats why they dont always need to be done in pairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 1 hour ago, Percha said: Whats 7Nm between forum members 😆 Close enough it won't matter. 😉🔧 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 22 minutes ago, Percha said: Its IRS What’s that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 13 minutes ago, Steve84N said: Close enough it won't matter. 😉🔧 Ppppfffttt It’s 20% of a difference! You’d not get a job in my garage 🤪 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Percha Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 1 hour ago, Andrew said: What’s that? Independent Rear Suspension 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 1 hour ago, Andrew said: Ppppfffttt It’s 20% of a difference! You’d not get a job in my garage 🤪 It won't snap or come undone... I do like to use the correct torque where possible though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncan-uk Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 5 hours ago, Andrew said: Ppppfffttt It’s 20% of a difference! You’d not get a job in my garage 🤪 Just whack em up FT 🤪 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 8 hours ago, duncan-uk said: Just whack em up FT 🤪 Another one from the ugga dugga school of technicians 🤦♂️ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Percha Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 Managed to get even more discount on Sachs rear shock, originally ~£170 from Carparts4less, then down to £135 with discount code, I then found it on Amazon Prime so Carparts4less accepted price match final cost £107! Ordered parts from BMW, dust cover/bumpstop/lower bolt/o-ring... So should be ready to fit this wkend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 That's not bad, I paid £83.50 from Autodoc in December 2022. Ive yet to find a garage that uses a torque wrench, at least on general parts all over the car. When I got my car back from CPC I was somewhat disappointed because there were clips missing that were there before, some bolts were under tightened like the propshaft and some were over tightened like the centre support bearing. Also, my new undertray bolts were snapping when undone so clearly been ugga dugga'ed on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 Good choice on the Sachs, I slightly regret not getting Sachs for mine, but I wasn't 100% convinced that their spec was a 100% match for my car. 1 hour ago, Steve84N said: Ive yet to find a garage that uses a torque wrench, at least on general parts all over the car. Or when they do its on bolts that they have already ugga dugga'd so the torque wrench clicks straight off and they say its tight. No, you've no idea what you've tightened it to as all you have confirmed is that it is at least tightened to what the wrench is set for... 1 hour ago, Steve84N said: Also, my new undertray bolts were snapping when undone so clearly been ugga dugga'ed on. ..so you end up in this situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncan-uk Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 Pfft, never heard of cable ties and gaffa tape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RH27 Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 (edited) On 19/03/2024 at 23:40, RH27 said: My MOT passed all clear thankfully. The last one hurt my wallet quite a bit with several suspension related stuff so I'm chuffed. Still, something is bound to pop up as always haha. Next up is a service in April. Wow. You could not make this up. Powered up the motor and I'm greeted with a lovely EML days after celebrating a clean MOT😂. I ended my last post with something bound to pop up hahaha. I'm laughing and crying at the same time. I will get the old scanner out Saturday morning because I cannot be arsed. Update pending... Edited March 21 by RH27 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RH27 Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 On 20/03/2024 at 08:16, Andrew said: Failing battery Broken battery negative lead Water leak into boot Condensation building up in nearside front headlight Wobbly wing mirrors Yup. These 'popped up' on mine since New Year. - Battery changed last year. - NSF headlight DIY resealed last year. - OSF has started failing, error codes galore during a rainstorm couple months back so I dried it out and it's been ok. When the weather is warmer I need to tackle that job. - No yellow grommet failure for me yet or water leak in boot. - NSF wing mirror heating element failed. I cannot be arsed sorting that one out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 50 minutes ago, RH27 said: - NSF wing mirror heating element failed. I cannot be arsed sorting that one out. I have this too, was already low priority and now the colder weather is gone for a while even less so. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 1 hour ago, RH27 said: - NSF headlight DIY resealed last year. Talk to me how you did this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RH27 Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 (edited) 3 hours ago, Andrew said: Talk to me how you did this It's a lot of faff but if you want to save a few hundred quid or more it's worth a day's work. It's also worth mentioning there are places you can send off your headlights to and they will reseal them for about ~£200 each I believe. You'll need a cardboard box lined with foil. This is what I call a heatbox. Two holes, one for intake (hairdryer) and one for an exhaust. Place the headlight unit in the box with a hairdryer running for 20-30mins to loosen the old sealant. The headlight housing gets really hot to the touch, so wear gloves. You'll need a solder iron to remove one or two metal pins from the housing when disassembling. Just heat it up and pry them out. Remove and pry using a headlight prying tool starting at the corners and repeat the heat box process as necessary, usually takes two or three cycles. Work quickly as the headlight housing will cool down quickly. (Alternatively, you can use an oven at around 70c for 10-15mins apparently, but your house will stink of plastic so if you have a Mrs or a mother in the house in my case, that's a nono lol). Once it's separated, you need an Stanley knife with a hook blade and a flathead Phillips screwdriver to run along the perimeter of the headlight housing to scrape out the old butyl/seal. This step is the most time consuming part of the entire process (I spent HOURS), as you want it all out to reseat the new butyl. Butyl is about £10 on Amazon. Once the old seal is out (it'll be very dry, brittle and tough to rip out so you'll need to be very patient), replace it with the new stuff. Hand fix the lens back on the housing pressing firmly around the perimeter and then place it back in the heat box for 20-30mins with the hairdryer on to soften up the new butyl and make it more tacky ready for clamping. Remove from heat box. Use 6-8 clamps to clamp the housing shut and hold it there overnight to set properly. Job done. I'll link you the YouTube video shortly. Edited March 21 by RH27 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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