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What did you do to your F10, F11 or F07 today?


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8 hours ago, Andrew said:

So then tell us what the market is like for trading in and then buying used electric cars. Is it really on its arse? 
 

I apologise in advance for the lengthy waffle nature of this video but e v e n t u a l l y he does get to the point…. That buying an electric car is for the rich and stupid. 

I work in a well known car auction, so we don’t take part ex or so, yep I do agree with this guy in the video👍 In last year or two EV’s started dropping in value like crazy, so if you’re not rich enough to no to care about your cars value after couple years of owning it, avoid it. It seems like only tesla’s and high end EV’s are more affected. Unfortunately we see similar situation with M cars from between 2014 to 2020 being much cheaper then lets say a year ago🥲

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7 hours ago, Steve84N said:

@Rimvyz not seen those keys before.

I also swapped that button for the Chinese one, but there's one problem with it. The light is less visible because the plastic that should be clear has white paint over it. At night it's alright but in the day it's not as easy to see that the brake is on. I need to take it off again and scratch away the white. 

Mine seems okay, the light is still visible quite clearly, I’ll see how good is it in bright sunny day (hope to see that soon haha)

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On 24/02/2024 at 23:07, mullinsj08 said:

@F10-65 It's been a week and a bit. The new bushes are holding up great! The front-end still feels solid.

I bought new upper wishbones and brake reaction arms but re-used the existing lower wishbone as that was replaced only a few months ago.

Finally found someone this morning to do my ProFlex bushes, and he did them there and then.  I picked the car up 2 hours later.  Said it was a bitch to get the actual poly part through the two shims mounted in the control arm but they're on.  Instantly perfect, much firmer but not as much as I was expecting.  Brake judder gone, hi speed wobble gone, perfect from 65 upwards until 90 this morning on the M20.  I changed my arm only a short while ago so reused them with the new bushes.  Maybe they will soften after a few mile but only time will tell...

Watched this at the Gym last week... 

 

Edited by F10-65
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Found what looks like two nail heads buried in my front nearside tyre.  Pressure is holding up though.

Got a mobile repair man at our office so give him a nudge Monday.

Pilot 4S Runflats

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Deep cleaned my wheel arches today as winter seems to be gone finally 🤭 
Also finally replaced the coolant flange after loosing 1L of coolant every day for the last 2 weeks, no wonder why… original flange gave up on life haha, also while inlet manifold had to come off, decided to give it a good clean, wasn’t too bad as I did already cleaned it 2 years ago☺️

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Attempted to replace my low pressure fuel pump with regulator and filter. It was much dirtier than I expected underneath the cover... 

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Much Scott roll later. Note all the sound insulation that a previous owner installed, there's Dynamat like material underneath and then the foam. Same in the boot around the battery area. Maybe they found the M Performance exhaust too loud, I did and it's now back to standard. 

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I didn't run the car with the pump disconnected as I didn't want the high pressure pump to go dry. That did mean as soon as I opened the clip it popped off but fortunately the fuel was caught in the lid. 

Using this special spanner I set about opening the lock ring...and it wouldn't budge! I had a 0.5m breaker bar on it but I just couldn't get it over the notch to release it. At this point I was short on time so will have to try again another day, maybe some WD40 or silicone spray might help it slide?

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It's been months since I washed the cars so cleaned off the winter grime.

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Edited by Steve84N
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7 hours ago, Steve84N said:

Attempted to replace my low pressure fuel pump with regulator and filter. It was much dirtier than I expected underneath the cover... 

IMG20240317141610.thumb.jpg.5f5339a0526cbab772964b47d3a2a582.jpg

Much Scott roll later. Note all the sound insulation that a previous owner installed, there's Dynamat like material underneath and then the foam. Same in the boot around the battery area. Maybe they found the M Performance exhaust too loud, I did and it's now back to standard. 

IMG20240317143434.thumb.jpg.4e4b7c8bd450aef699c42bc324e73106.jpg

I didn't run the car with the pump disconnected as I didn't want the high pressure pump to go dry. That did mean as soon as I opened the clip it popped off but fortunately the fuel was caught in the lid. 

Using this special spanner I set about opening the lock ring...and it wouldn't budge! I had a 0.5m breaker bar on it but I just couldn't get it over the notch to release it. At this point I was short on time so will have to try again another day, maybe some WD40 or silicone spray might help it slide?

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It's been months since I washed the cars so cleaned off the winter grime. Too dark at the end to get a clean shot. 

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I did my fuel pump 4 years ago, it was quite easy to slightly twist that locking disk with a big screwdriver and a hammer, just hit it on those grooves on the edge👏 try that and good luck!

Edited by Rimvyz
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@Rimvyz I was trying to avoid doing that so I didn't scratch the paint, thought the proper tool would work. I thought about it last night and I think I need to press down at the same time as turning. The way I was doing it was probably forcing it up more than down because it shouldn't be that hard. 

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Tried out Auto Glym Polar Blast. Best coating I've yet experienced from a snow foam. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the gleaming finish straight away and on returning from a brief trip up the road and back the whole thing was covered in mud all over again. Proving the point that it's not worth washing your car around here until spring has sprung.

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Bu$$er

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Am I surprised that just over a year later the nearside is beginning to fail?

I think later today, I'll remove the TMS module and see if any water drains out and then use the hairdryer 'fix' and Silica gel sachets 

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22 minutes ago, Andrew said:

I'll remove the TMS module and see if any water drains out and then use the hairdryer 'fix' and Silica gel sachets 

Looks like I also need to do this although I have noticed considerably less condensation over the last week. I'm desperately hoping that it magically disappears as the wild and wet weather abates and I can put off doing the tricky-looking stuff.

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3 minutes ago, jannism said:

Looks like I also need to do this although I have noticed considerably less condensation over the last week.

Hate to say this but it starts as a small amount and builds up over a relatively short space of time.

As I type my bonnet is up with the cap off letting it vent in the vain hope of drying some of it out....

 

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Ashamed to say it but finally (like others above) got round to washing it, it’s the first time I have since I bought it a year ago! 🫣 :classic_rolleyes: (albeit it has had a quick blast off with bilt hamber auto foam once before).

 

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Removed the nearside front wheel...

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and the TMS module which was thankfully bone dry so I could blast the hairdryer into the TMS module opening....

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to test the hairdryer theory out for getting rid of the headlight condensation.

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First thing this morning

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...it's clearing up...

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Getting there

 

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30 minutes of hot air being blown thru, the top cap was open to encourage air flow thru the headlight.

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I'll take that as a win, well for today anyway.

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And in a futile attempt to limit its return.

We will wait and see how long that lasts.

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I managed to undo the lock ring and change the fuel pump on my second attempt. Some WD40 and removing the socket extension to get a more direct leverage on the spanner did the trick. Still bashed my knuckles when it went though! 

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After 12.5 years and 100,000 miles I'm glad I've renewed the pump, regulator and filter, given how important a strong consistent fuel supply is. The new assembly has an extra port in the lid capped off, with a small pipe that sits in the tank, not sure what it's for so just left it capped. It effectively makes one of the two blanked holes on the old lid useable. Maybe a different model of car needs it. There was a small amount of sediment in the tank but I had no easy way to remove it so left it be. 

I've only been for a short drive to fill up after running it right down to zero indicated mileage range. Got 67.5 litres in the so called 70 litre tank, which seems about right for an absolute emergency reserve. 

Will have to see once I've driven it more but I'm sure it's idling better. It's rock steady with no interruption, whereas before you'd get the odd dip of revs or a hiccup when listening to the exhaust. If it drives well perhaps I can afford to run my high pressure fuel pump in service for a bit longer, checking for codes occasionally that they tend to throw when they start failing. That's a more involved and expensive replacement. 

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@Steve84N is yours an early N55?  HPFP were notorious on the N54 and only gave issues on very early N55s.

 

But yes scanning for trouble codes regularly is a good thing to do.  Same can be applied to water pumps and thermostats, they start to leave codes if they begin to fail.

 

 

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@Andrew yes, it's a September 2011 so I have the same HPFP as the N54. Something else I wish I'd known before buying an older car. Seems from around 2012 there were some updates like the HPFP and then again on the LCI when they went to electronic instead of pneumatic wastegate. I did want an LCI for that reason but there weren't any for sale when I was looking.

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My MOT passed all clear thankfully. The last one hurt my wallet quite a bit with several suspension related stuff so I'm chuffed. Still, something is bound to pop up as always haha. 

Next up is a service in April. 

 

Edited by RH27
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8 hours ago, RH27 said:

 Still, something is bound to pop up as always haha. 

 

 

Failing battery
Broken battery negative lead
Water leak into boot
Condensation building up in nearside front headlight
Wobbly wing mirrors

Yup. These 'popped up' on mine since New Year.

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