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What did you do to your F10, F11 or F07 today?


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I bought all the arms and fixing kits from Autodoc app on a Monday with the biggest %off is. If you get the bolt part number from realoem and paste it into Autodoc it usually comes up with a kit of bolts etc but not all arms have fixing kits.

If you are thinking of doing the arms, bear in mind that the arm needs to come back out if you ever need to do the wheel bearings.  I did my arms partly cos I needed to do the wheel bearings.

 

The bolts I’ve bought from Autodoc are always Lemforder and have identical markings to those I bought from BMW, who will buy bolts in rather than make them themselves. The Autodoc bolts in terms of threaded/shank lengths all matched the genuine ones I took out. 

AC275515-B091-4536-8736-0931036-EC8-CD.j

New bolts all from Autodoc.

E76-C078-A-1-F6-E-4048-883-A-AD59523882-

Scrap (genuine) bolts all matched the new Lemforder ones from Autodoc.

If you haven’t ever yet used the app to make a purchase, I can send you a discount code.  PM me for details. 

You must replace all the nuts and bolts as they are stretch bolts and lock nuts so only work reliably once. 

Edit

Just checked back my Autodoc orders, the ones you have linked are the ones I used for the tension arms.

You will need this one for the wishbones

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/lemforder/9664735

Edited by Andrew
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@F10-65 it won't matter if it's fully threaded because the bush doesn't rotate on it. However, the price is (I think) comparable to just buying them from BMW. I got mine from Cotswold, which happens to be my closest anyway. Worth a call to compare and you'd get them quicker. 

Edited by Steve84N
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1 hour ago, Steve84N said:

@F10-65 it won't matter if it's fully threaded because the bush doesn't rotate on it. 

That is a very good point.

This is why you need to tighten the bushes at ride height as the bushes (their metal central part) are effectively clamped by the subframe.

IMG-9462.jpg

The tear you see was another reason I replaced my tension arms.

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On 05/09/2023 at 00:44, Phil_530d said:

Not done yet, but interior door handle on drivers side of my F10 has decided to evolve into a sticky mess so ordered a new plastic handle that also surrounds the electric window switches and mirror control. 

Cue 'F10 door card removal' search on YT...

Hopefully fairly straightforward. 

Oh and tried to find out what's broken on my daughter's French car (C1) but that's a second order priority 😉

Replaced the 'sticky mess' interior drivers side door handle.

Not too tricky - just the normal battle to not break plastic clips that seem to be designed to snap when moved slightly out of place.

Old one ready for the bin...

20230914_195817.jpg

And new handle in place 

20230915_101902.jpg

Edited by Phil_530d
Added new pic
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After being under mine on Monday,

IMG-2232.jpg

I ordered and then received yesterday new underbelly retaining clips and screws.

IMG-2249.jpg

I had replaced some of the clip nuts previously with plastic ones so ordered another 50 clip nuts and 100 bolts from 

https://vehicleclips.co.uk/

The transmission underbelly has never been off and the bolt heads looked terrible so I'll replace them after most likely having to use a pair of self locking pliers to extract them!

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6 hours ago, Andrew said:

After being under mine on Monday,

IMG-2232.jpg

I ordered and then received yesterday new underbelly retaining clips and screws.

IMG-2249.jpg

I had replaced some of the clip nuts previously with plastic ones so ordered another 50 clip nuts and 100 bolts from 

https://vehicleclips.co.uk/

The transmission underbelly has never been off and the bolt heads looked terrible so I'll replace them after most likely having to use a pair of self locking pliers to extract them!

Got a couple of bags of these from your previous post and I've been replacing them as I do jobs on my car - easy and very satisfying thing to do!

Especially the ones you can see in the wheel arches 🙂 

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This week I had my engine and gearbox mounts replaced. The engine mounts were very much done.

The left one was totally destroyed and the peg the engine sits on was just flopping around freely, the right one was less worse but still very much needed to be replaced.

Now the engine is being actually held in place as it should the car handles better.

I also ordered the Eibach B12 Pro Kit from Autodoc this week as it came back into stock for £882 so I'm very excited to get that installed 😁

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A 100 mile round trip to do a spot of track work at Bo’ness today.

Picked up a trailer load of logs on the way home too.

IMG-2449.jpg

Not shabby mpg either for towing a trailer loaded with logs in rush hour traffic. 

Car disgraced itself in the way home….

Loud scraping sound from the O/S/F. Was getting worse so pulled into a petrol station. Nothing obvious, no heat, no smells, no knocks or clunks. Left service area and as I rejoined the motorway I had to make a sharp right turn over some potholes.

Which obviously dislodged the stone that was stuck between the disc and splash shield.

Turned 61,000 miles too. 

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On 17/09/2023 at 17:17, Andrew said:

Thanks. I've looked into those before. Not cheap. But then safe access should never be based on cheap! For that kind of money, I'd rather upgrade my HU from NBT to EVO. Besides, I don't have any space to store them in the garage and I doubt the wife will let me keep them in the house🙄. She thinks I've got to much junk already🤣. It's amazing how this junk is useful when something needs fixing...

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10 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

https://media.tenor.com/_GcgSeZ0dXEAAAAC/driving-miss.gif

You mock me but cruising at 50 or 60mph which if you remember is the limit for towing a trailer, it can have its advantages. 😝

Besides the trailer has little 8” wheels, they go round fast at 60mph compared to the 19”s on the car. 

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Took up smoking.

IMG-2456.jpg

Tested out my smoke machine, to help me check for any leaks that may be contributing to my very occasional stall on hot restart.

Which it has only done once since changing out the intercooler seals.

And yes it's been driven every day since before you say owt @duncan-uk 😝

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Borrowed the lorry MOT bay of one of my clients to use the pit.

Changed my control arms and the bolts.  Couldn’t get the left clip nut to bite the bolt thread.  Looks like the clip itself is bent so had to revert back to the original clip nut.

Torqued to 100Nm plus 180ish degree turn.

IMG_1546.thumb.jpeg.ce9ff0509ead78ca0c77af3e8a73e37d.jpeg

Discovered a fuel leak in the process though.  Could be the filter I suppose/hope but looks further forward from there.  Asked someone to have a look for me.

Open to easy fix ideas if anybody wants to offer 🤔.

IMG_1547.thumb.jpeg.cb853818853fd8b77ea809c218e03f25.jpeg

Need some of those white plastic screw receiver clips now though.

Edited by F10-65
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I found the leak already.  The fuel return pipe from the injectors, its the o-ring apparently perish...

I can't seem to the o-rings anywhere or even the part number.  People have the whole tube available to replace though.

Can anybody recommend a brand to get and where does the pipe go to please?

 

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On 13/09/2023 at 20:08, Steve84N said:

@F10-65 it won't matter if it's fully threaded because the bush doesn't rotate on it. However, the price is (I think) comparable to just buying them from BMW. I got mine from Cotswold, which happens to be my closest anyway. Worth a call to compare and you'd get them quicker. 

The bolt was cheaper at my local BMW dealer.  Ta

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13 minutes ago, F10-65 said:

Where does it feed back to?  Easy?

If you look at the realoem picture it's probably to the high pressure fuel pump. Certainly not as easy as just changing the seals as the other end will be further down inside the engine bay. Have a look and follow yours to see if it's accessible. 

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If you can accurately determine the size of the o ring you’ll probably get one from eBay. Jus make sure is compatible with diesel tho.

Be warned BMW like using sizes like 11.8mm x 1.8mm and the generic stuff will be 12mmx2mm which won’t fit properly.

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