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What did you do to your F10, F11 or F07 today?


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On 13/07/2023 at 08:35, Andrew said:

I have almost given up trying to educate the other Admins on here ( @duncan-uk @Alpinaman ) about the delights of Scottish cuisine but have failed miserably so far. Flat sausage is another delicacy that is lost on them.....

Arguement for independence right there!🤪😘

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Wheels fitted today, soooo much better!

however tpms is moaning, all are showing about 1.7 bar, but I’ve checked with 2 separate gauges and both show all tyres around 2.5.  Reset about 4 times. Any thoughts?

tommorrows job is to sort the fubared wiring to the mirrors (error codes) and when I checked last time the plugs were missing that plug into the glass and the wires were just manually attached on with the little clips which would normally be in the plug. Did get them error free like that but it’s come back so time to do it properly. Got some proper plugs from Latvia! Just got to wire them in.

also hoping to get the Vibe amp fitted since I upgraded the basic stereo to Match speakers the volume doesn’t get very high! 🙄 the speakers and the focal underseats just need a bit more juice!

B8AF8FA8-F7CB-443E-A005-8BC59754A9F8.jpeg

Edited by skyjawa
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On 12/07/2023 at 23:19, Munzy said:

The Princess turned 150k today! 😍
 

Oil and filter change done. 
 

I’ve used an electric pump (£15 from Lidl) for a while now (did one sump plug drain last year) and have read many opinions on whether or not those pumps gets as much oil out as a sump drain. 
 

Today I ran the car up to temp then used the pump to get as much as it could suck out. I then lifted the car, undid the sump plug, lowered the car back down and collected what came out - which was about 20ml - dribbles. 
 

I also compared the consistency and, as far as I could see and feel, it was the same as what had come out of with the pump, with no sludge or bits (thank god!) 

So a negligible difference between the methods in my opinion. The pump is just so much quicker, easier and less mess for me. 
 

If I was feeling rich (which these days I don’t) I would like to get a few extra litres of the oil I use and flush it through the engine with the sump plug removed but that will have to wait until  another day. 
 

After the recent drama with the mystery coolant leak and me worrying she may be a ‘gonner, I took her for a spin down to the coast revelling in her class, freshly poured oil and treated myself to a a haggis supper and a cone 😀

I cant find the pump on Lidl but is this the same sort of thing or what am i looking for?

skyehomo 12V 60W Oil Extractor Pump,Oil Suction Scavenge Pump,Oil Suction Scavenge Pump,Oil Sump Pump for Car/Motorcycles/Boats : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Is t worth doing the flushing oil routine too and what do you do with the old oil?

 

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59 minutes ago, Andrew said:

No you forget, I pay tax. 😆

 

@skyjawa, did reset the system with your old wheels out of range? The sensors could possibly use new batteries. 

First time probably not, but I went out to get it to update and did it several more times miles away.

will see if they gradually return to normal, they did start to increase as I drove but I put that more down to tyre temp rising.

I may just code it back to abs based until it’s time for new tyres and get new sensors then…..

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TPMS sensor batteries aren't really user replaceable, as in the proper types that reside on the rim, not the type that screw into the Schrader valve (cheapest aftermarket type).

The manufacturers make it difficult to change the battery by covering the TPMS PCB with an opaque seal that is waxy in appearance. It can be removed, but is fiddly which gives you access to the battery.

Obviously, once you've changed the battery, you need to reseal the PCB. It isn't silicone, but this may be a poor man's bodge?.

BMW branded sensors can be expensive, but you can buy after market versions.

I doubt you can mix aftermarket with OEM  though.

OEM original sensors can last up to 7 years depending on usage. Hearsay suggests longer, but I don't have that knowledge/experience. Replacements don't usually last as long as originals.

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20 hours ago, F10-65 said:

I cant find the pump on Lidl but is this the same sort of thing or what am i looking for?

skyehomo 12V 60W Oil Extractor Pump,Oil Suction Scavenge Pump,Oil Suction Scavenge Pump,Oil Sump Pump for Car/Motorcycles/Boats : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Is t worth doing the flushing oil routine too and what do you do with the old oil?

 

Yes, that's the same kind of pump 🙂 

If you’re happy to pay for the extra oil I'd say a flush with some fresh stuff would be good, if nothing else than a satisfying thing to do!


I'd only be using the same type of oil as I am using for the engine - I don't want to put cheaper or 'special engine flushes' anywhere near my N57!

I got a great deal on the oil on eBay - there was 15% off on top of 5% for multibuy so I paid £69 for 10 litres (delivered next day):

Used old oil containers to collect the old oil and then take it to the recycling centre.

Engine Oil Shell 5W30 Helix Ultra 5L 5 Litre ECT C3 Fully Synthetic 550067698 5011987005679 | eBay

Regarding starting with emptying from the sump first @olliecampbell, I see where you are coming from and thought about this myself, but I've never seen lumps or a change in consistency since doing oil changes on my BMWs (M47 and N57 engines) both entirely at the plug and with a pump.

I have read that with modern engines and synthetic oils if you are changing the oil and filter every 6 months/6000miles then unless there is something wrong there should be no sludge or lumps. Same with swarf or bits - that's back in the days of the less precision engines (old Trimumphs/Morris minors 🙂 ) or maybe the first 500 miles. By 150k on a modern BMW engine if there are metal shards in your oil then something else is amiss and big trouble not far away...

Edited by Munzy
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Re-wired the mirrors, passenger one still moaning about being defective so I guess it’s probably the glass. Hey ho, not that fussed, the drivers side dimming/heating one isn’t moaning and that’s the most useful one anyway!

got the Vibe amp installed, boy that makes the upgraded speakers and subs sound much better!

now got to sort the tpms constantly complaining!

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Managed to get 30 mins out of the house to poke around mine trying to work out how to disable the fuel injectors so I can crank the engine without it firing or washing the bores with petrol.

Fuse 502 in the battery mounted fuse box protects  the battery voltage supply to a sealed fuse box above/adjacent to the master cylinder, which is where the fuse for the injectors and ignition coils are. 
 

9442-C606-F3-D3-417-E-89-B9-8-F44-F40264

Wire just unplugs from battery. 
 

63729513-5-A55-424-F-B363-924-A3349-BA90

Means I can check oil pressure is there (cranking engine without it starting)after doing oil filter housing gaskets as I’ve read the horror stories in USA of N55s locking up from oil starvation following on from work on the oil circuits including these gaskets. 

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Had an EML light come on about MAF airflow problem. Cleaned the maf and map sensors didn't help. took off the throttle and there is loads of carbon in the intake, clean what I could see which has got rid of the light but probably only a matter of time before it comes back.

Not sure if I will DIY it, might be above my skill level. I was nearly defeated by the electrical connectors when changing the rocker cover gasket. 

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So I've done some digging, the wheels are from an LCI and mine is a 2011, however I understand that they all use the same sensors - only pre 09/2010 F10's used a different type, though I've read a couple of bits to say the sensors changed again in 2013, though RealOEM quotes the same sensor (36146792830) for them all.

Found a guide to disable TPMS tho, knew I'd seen it somewhere! 

BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST - View Single Post - Code out TPMS (bimmerpost.com)

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On 17/07/2023 at 10:05, Steve84N said:

@Andrewfor what it's worth I've done my OFHG twice since owning it. Both times I poured some oil in the filter housing and started it up. No problems at the time or since. 

 

Yeah I know, but I’m thinking if it’s as simple as pulling a cable out the battery fuse box, I’ve got nowt to loose.

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On 18/07/2023 at 23:11, duncan-uk said:

Probably due a rebuild now 🤪

I’m merely working my way thru some parts that aren’t up to my standard or have clearly worn/preventative maintenance. 

Remind me and all of us here,what parts have you replaced on your F11 in a far shorter time frame than I’ve replaced bits on mine?


🫢

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Finally fixed the constant Tyre Pressure moaning!  As per the guide, removed 2VB from the VO and coded DSC, CIC, ICM and KOMBI modules, reset the monitor and went for a drive - no more error, back to the ABS based system.  Will recode back in once I get new tyres fitted.

Also took the opportunity to add 2TB into the VO for my retrofitted SAT gear shifter to stop the complaining control unit is not coded, had no CAFD under the GWS module so needed to inject that too but at least thats two more errors that won't come back 🙂

Edited by skyjawa
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For this I used Esys as you can’t VO code with BimmerCode, but for FDL type coding BC mostly as it’s pretty easy.

I use BC with a Vgate icar 4 equivalent Bluetooth obd adapter 

with esys I use a cheap Ethernet to obd adapter from eBay!

 

turns out the sensors in the wheels are from a 2016 car and when I rechecked realoem they were changed in 03/2014 to different part numbers, it seems they are not compatible with the earlier cars, weird though that the car could read them just at the wrong pressure…..

Edited by skyjawa
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