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What did you do to your F10, F11 or F07 today?


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It’s that time of year again when mine is due it’s annual yellow grommet inspection and clean out.

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12 months worth of muck.

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I did it in between showers this morning, when I loosened the cover water trickled out.


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It had been very wet overnight and early this morning here and you can see the tide line on the back of the cover.

 

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5 hours ago, VPCAPTAIN said:

whats the cover mod ?

Cut away a section of the seal at the bottom of the cover to allow water to drain and avoid it pooling behind the grommet.

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This way any water should be able to drain straight through rather than pooling and finding its way into the car.

 

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15 hours ago, Percha said:

@Andrewyou should modify the cover as others (and myself) have, then you wont get that tide line on an overnight downpour.

I have wrestled with that idea, but I’m happy to annually go in and inspect clean out the area, and of course as long as the near side scuttle drain is kept clear as that’s where the water drains too via that square cut out.

 

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First Monday of the school holidays up here today.

So that transpires to having the wipers on full speed and the heated seat on as it was only 10.5 deg C this morning when out in mine.  Was needing my winter tyres for the flooding on the roads......

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@olliecampbellI've got the Quickjack 5000SLX. I had to buy their frame extensions to reach the 5 Series jacking points.

The good news for you is they have now replaced the SLX models with the TLX version, which has 3" more of lift. They also do a longer version to save having to get the extensions.

This is what you would get:

https://www.quickjacklift.co.uk/car-lifts/5000tlx/

It is powered by the car battery and works very well. There's two lock points so it rests on mechanical steel and not the hydraulics. I'm fine to go under on a trolley, although another 3" would make a helpful difference. They don't get in the way of stuff in the middle underneath like a lot of lifts do. The only thing I've found is one of the bolts on the rear underbody braces is covered up on the lift, but it's easy to undo before jacking it up. 

Overall, I'd recommend it as a safe and secure way of getting the car up. It's so much better than jack stands. Each lift is north of 30kg but they have small wheels to move them around. For small jobs like swapping wheels I still use a simple jack but for everything else it's worth it. 

Edited by Steve84N
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1 hour ago, olliecampbell said:

These might be an option I guess.

I have a pair of these

https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/heavy-duty-scissor-hydraulic-car-ramps-1360kg-cr06xhd/

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Great for suspension work when the weight of the car needs to be on its wheels so that the suspension is at the correct ride height. Mechanical lock too so you don't (must not ever!) rely on a hydraulic valve to hold the car above you.  Plus these can be easily used with axle stands.

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Happy to set up a gofundme page for another pair.

Very substantial which is what you want when you are under the car.

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Mine was MOT'd this morning.

Passed but the front brakes have an imbalance of 43% and the limit is 50.  They just advised.

Is that likely to be a sticky caliper or piston that I could service myself?

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2 hours ago, F10-65 said:

 

Is that likely to be a sticky caliper or piston that I could service myself?

It could be but as an easy starter for ten...

Strip brakes and examine the caliper piston seals.

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They should be soft and pliable around the piston where it seals into the caliper body.  Not tears or distortion.

Clean the caliper cradle where the pads slid over, wire brush, file loads of brake cleaner.  Put a bit of ceramic grease on the contact points when the pads slide on the cradle

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Give the caliper slide pins a good wire brush too.

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Try to retract the piston back into the caliper with a G clamp or specific tool, do this with the bleed nipple open to check that it will move.  Shut nipple re-assemble and pump brake pedal a few times to re sit the piston on the pads.

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You can buy caliper refurbish kits which will include new seals etc, but if there is internal corrosion (caused from water in the brake fluid)  in the bores of the caliper, you might be onto plumbs and a new caliper is needed.

 

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New (to me) wheels arrived. 613m 18’s to replace the horrible 236 17’s.  They are just too small for such a big car and not a fan of the style. I know it’s only an inch bigger but much more aesthetically pleasing to my eyes, and didn’t want to ruin the ride quality or cost of tyres by going any bigger.

just in the process of tidying them up inside and out, then will get them fitted.

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The Princess turned 150k today! 😍
 

Oil and filter change done. 
 

I’ve used an electric pump (£15 from Lidl) for a while now (did one sump plug drain last year) and have read many opinions on whether or not those pumps gets as much oil out as a sump drain. 
 

Today I ran the car up to temp then used the pump to get as much as it could suck out. I then lifted the car, undid the sump plug, lowered the car back down and collected what came out - which was about 20ml - dribbles. 
 

I also compared the consistency and, as far as I could see and feel, it was the same as what had come out of with the pump, with no sludge or bits (thank god!) 

So a negligible difference between the methods in my opinion. The pump is just so much quicker, easier and less mess for me. 
 

If I was feeling rich (which these days I don’t) I would like to get a few extra litres of the oil I use and flush it through the engine with the sump plug removed but that will have to wait until  another day. 
 

After the recent drama with the mystery coolant leak and me worrying she may be a ‘gonner, I took her for a spin down to the coast revelling in her class, freshly poured oil and treated myself to a a haggis supper and a cone 😀

Edited by Munzy
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8 hours ago, Munzy said:

treated myself to a a haggis supper 

Yummy.  Plus the labour you have saved doing the oil change yourself will almost have paid for that supper.  

I have almost given up trying to educate the other Admins on here ( @duncan-uk @Alpinaman ) about the delights of Scottish cuisine but have failed miserably so far. Flat sausage is another delicacy that is lost on them.....

 

The newer cars are now being designed for vacuum sump emptying.  My wifes Kuga as an example, has the dipstick located centrally in the cylinder head in a tube that leads to the sump, which is right next to the filler cap to make the exercise easy. But the oil filter is buried away meaning you still need to lift the car to access it (unlike our proper cars) so I'm not sure what the benefit is, if you still need to lift the car or go under it which is the risky bit.

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On 13/07/2023 at 08:35, Andrew said:

...My wifes Kuga as an example, has the dipstick located centrally in the cylinder head in a tube that leads to the sump, which is right next to the filler cap...

So they can suck it out, push it through a paper filter and back into the car whilst charging you for new oil? :D

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On 12/07/2023 at 23:19, Munzy said:

...I also compared the consistency and, as far as I could see and feel, it was the same as what had come out of with the pump, with no sludge or bits (thank god!) 

So a negligible difference between the methods in my opinion. The pump is just so much quicker, easier and less mess for me. ...

I wonder if a little more oil in the sump might have pulled more lumps out with it when you pulled the sump plug. I guess the only way to tell would be to put more new oil through to maybe flush these bits out....Just a thought.

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