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What did you do to your F10, F11 or F07 today?


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Not strictly today, but since we last met:

- New number plates, screwless with sticky pads, clean!

- Replaced the front lower wishbones and lower control arms 

- Replaced the front wheel hubs

- Put a new inlet manifold on

- New glow plugs...* (see below)

- Oil and filter change

- Replaced the coolant control valve (air was always hot on driver's footwell)

- Replaced the parking heater water pump

- 4 new tyres - Bridgestone Potenza

*Glow Plugs - despite spraying penetrating fluid several times during the week before, despite having the engine warmed up, despite using a (Norbar) torque wrench, glow plugs 1 and 2 snapped coming out. 

I was not too bothered as I know that the glow plugs are not essential (help start up and 'managing' cylinder temps as required) that the car would run mostly fine, but on these mild summer mornings (even in Glasgow!) is was so lumpy at start-up I couldn't leave it with winter on the horizon.

I remember reading old posts about cylinder heads having to come off to get the snapped plugs out, the time, cost and hassle so I did a bit of Googling and found a guy from Kinross at Injector Removal Scotland who advertised as being able to remove them without taking the head off.

I had to remove the inlet manifold to give him clear access but he was a star - got both out and new plugs fitted! £250 and delighted with that. I put on a new glow plug control unit (Beru) whilst I had the inlet off and after two days the fault codes have stayed clear.  

I reset the values for the glow plugs using my Foxwell 530 and hopefully this will see me through the winter.

Good to be back - I could never have managed all that without the knowledge I have gained from this forum - thanks everyone 🙂

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In a similar vein to@Munzy, I've done the following to my F07 in the last 3 weeks

Retrofitted wing mirror cameras to give me 3AH, but coded as 5DL. I was told that it wasn't possible to retrofit cameras to the wing mirrors....but proved them wrong. I ordered the black and red HSD wires from a European distributor, together with the bottom wing mirror camera covers and cameras. Door wiring was sourced from F10 wiring looms bought online and stripped to the HSD wires. With the exception of the door HSD cables, everything else was new. Cost me about £600, excluding coding. Getting the primary HSD wires into the body sockets was a doddle compared to routing the wires through the doors. This involved removing the door cards and making an incision into the sound proofing. I tried draw wires and endoscope to avoid interfering with the sound insulation, but failed.Incisions have been made goid with tape. Butyl seals weren't damaged, so water proofing isn't compromised.

Whilst Car was coded by 3rd party, also added a gearbox modification.  The Car wouldn't accept 3AH, so 5DL was coded. ISTA will show errors for bumper cameras that dont exist, but no other issues. It works great. The car wouldn't accept 2TB, but did accept 2TE ( auto with paddles).

I replaced the standard air filter with a KN 33-2428....to my mind huge improvement...acts like sport mode in comfort mode!

Finally, I swapped out the 20" 303Ms with ATS rims, whilst the 303's are refurbished. Original rims are staggered 8.5J/10J, but ATS are 9.5J all round. The brand new ATS rims were a bargain at £575.....I prefer the 303s, but my Son thinks the Car looks more aggressive with the ATS rims.

I also had an unplanned NSR tyre change due to a hole. This was a newly fitted tyre in 2020, and done 10k miles....I didn't spot its date of 2013! When it came off...it had a patch...so clearly wasn't new, but too late for me to complain.

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Built one of my new front struts during my lunch hour.

IMG-2214.jpg

Took me 20 mins to build this one compared to the 2 hours it took me to do it last time.

What a difference a proper set of spring compressors make!

The alignment on the top mount to forked end should be there or thereabouts.  Once I have the old one off I can then quickly re-compress it and re-align it if required to match the one that came off.

The new top mounts do not come with threaded holes.  The bolts you buy are self tapping and cut the thread in the mount, but, having been there done that and got the t-shirt, I tapped out one of the holes so I can hold the strut with one hand under the wheel arch and then with the other start a new bolt in the threaded hole.

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Checked with an old strut bolt. 

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No bother.

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M8x1.25

I just felt it would be easier for me to do it this way, once I've got one in place, I can thread the other holes as per BMW instructions, i.e. with the bolt!  The new bolts have thread lock applied too.  As I've already re-fitted an old top mount, I know the new bolts will fit easily in a pre-threaded hole.

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6 minutes ago, Andrew said:

Built one of my new front struts during my lunch hour.

IMG-2214.jpg

 

 

 

I too bought one of those spring compressors for when I replaced the top spring carrier bearing on my wife’s F45. I tried using the yellow plastic spring protectors that come with the compressor and failed miserably, once removed it was a doddle but I still fixed a length of chain around the strut and compressor for protection if the spring or compressor decided to part ways trying to kill me 😁

Edited by Matthew
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6 hours ago, Matthew said:

I tried using the yellow plastic spring protectors that come with the compressor and failed miserably, 

Yeah, that just adds another layer of potential movement between the spring and the compressor.  NO THANKS! They get ripped off and left in the box and I rely on metal to metal contact.

I did wonder about a length of chain, but I stand parallel to the compressed coil at all times and just use outstretched arms to do the work, while gritting my teeth and turning my head and shutting my eyes. It's like looking down the barrel of a loaded gun until the top mount and nut is back on!

6 hours ago, Matthew said:

when I replaced the top spring carrier bearing on my wife’s F45. 

What were the symptoms you had that made you replace the top mount bearing?  I've got a creak from my O/S/F so its all getting replaced!

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4 minutes ago, Andrew said:

What were the symptoms you had that made you replace the top mount bearing?  I've got a creak from my O/S/F so its all getting replaced!

Rather annoying that the first F45s in 2014 had a latent defect with the top mounts that BMW initially struggled to get fixed. The symptom was creaking when turning the front wheels that you could feel if holding the spring and someone turned the steering wheel.
 

After replacing a bunch of parts in the front suspension they eventually used some special long life grease that masked the root cause for a couple of years. I got fed up speaking to the dealer about it and of course by 2022, the car is now 8 years old (27000 miles) and the dealer wasn’t interested. I contacted Cotswold BMW only to be informed there is a repair kit now including the revised top mount and all the bolts needed when reinstalling the strut to the car all at a reduced pricing over the individual components. Once fixed, what a huge difference it made to the drive, the steering is much easier to turn and of course no more creak. Very glad I did it knowing it has been done just right. 

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3 minutes ago, Matthew said:

Very glad I did it knowing it has been done just right. 

And that's why we do DIY.

And then celebrate afterwards with a beer instead of crying while recovering from open wallet surgery if we had paid someone to grease it up.

Lol fix the symptom and not the problem.... 😱

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24 minutes ago, Andrew said:

And that's why we do DIY.

And then celebrate afterwards with a beer instead of crying while recovering from open wallet surgery if we had paid someone to grease it up.

Lol fix the symptom and not the problem.... 😱

Tell me about it, I wasn’t happy at the time but there was nowhere else I go it seemed. The new part is very different from the old, much more robust so I’m expecting good life out of it. 

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In another hour of tinker time tonight, l lined up the near side front coil spring in relation to the top mount arrow (and lower forked shock end) so that when the coil is in the compressor (which means you can turn the coil spring to line things up) it’s give or take aligned in relation to the strut when I put the shock in the coil spring with the forked end on its side.

DBD01132-357-E-4-A20-A40-E-0558-DF62-E35

Forked end vertical and strut top mount approximately aligned.

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Then carefully pic up the spring and place in the compressor. 

I was then summoned to do kiddie bedtime......

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Since we were last here, I've been quite busy...

- 2x Oil changes as the oil that I put in was immediately black, engine shakes less since the 2nd change

- Intake valves walnut blasted

- Intake manifold cleaned and swirl flaps removed

- Replaced rear discs and pads and a seized calliper

- Found the oil leak which is from the oil filter housing gasket

- Replaced main beam bulbs with OSRAM Night Breakers 

- Ordered up bulb holders to do the same with the dipped beam as it currently has HIDs installed with mangled holders

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18 hours ago, Caesar said:

Renewed insurance with Direct Line @ £300. Pleased with that.

I just did mine too £345 with Saga.  15k per annum inc 3k business, 2 drivers, clean licence, business use by me, drive overnight, office car park during day, 13 years NCB

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