What did you do to your F10, F11 or F07 today?

[0011718]

5 hours ago, Andrew said:

If you go ahead with that, it would be an ideal opportunity to replace the guibo/flex disc. 

And if you have deep pockets, the diff bushes too

The exhaust, heatshield and prop all need to come out to do those jobs.

 

Be interesting to know how they diagnosed it as its all hidden behind the heatshield, to get the heatshield out, you need to take the exhaust off.

Unfortunately my funds are limited as currently between jobs. He had the car on the ramp, took me to the rear of the car and you could see a rubber mount of the prop shaft and it was all cracked.

[Andrew]

27 minutes ago, 0011718 said:

Unfortunately my funds are limited as currently between jobs. He had the car on the ramp, took me to the rear of the car and you could see a rubber mount of the prop shaft and it was all cracked.

Ah that’s the guibo, I thought you meant the centre prop mount which is rubber.

The guibos all crack, this is mine 

but BMW will say this is ok and only when you see the internal fibres coming out like @VPCAPTAIN had on his E92, you then replace. 

[VPCAPTAIN]

Heres one i changed earlier replaced with a febi one which is manufactured by the same oem supplier bmw use SGF 

 

Bmw newtis says replace the nuts / bolts as they are single use

 

the old one 

Edited June 5, 2023 by VPCAPTAIN
Text

[duncan-uk]

Everything seems to be bloody single use on these which i find feintly ridiculous...

[VPCAPTAIN]

4 minutes ago, duncan-uk said:

Everything seems to be bloody single use on these which i find feintly ridiculous...

Also the replacement zns nuts were very soft and easily rounded off when trying to torque up (newtis said hold nut and torque bolt ) but access limitation was having to use open spanner and not a ring spanner which didn't help matters

[Matthew]

14 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

Everything seems to be bloody single use on these which i find feintly ridiculous...

Stretch bolts are always single use.As soon as there’s a secondary angle of rotation after torquing, you don’t want to be reusing the bolts.

[Steve84N]

12 minutes ago, Matthew said:

Stretch bolts are always single use.As soon as there’s a secondary angle of rotation after torquing, you don’t want to be reusing the bolts.

Agreed. However, there's also quite a few where the repair manual says replace and they don't have an angle. The cost soon racks up, I've spent hundreds on bolts doing all the work I've done. 

[duncan-uk]

Yes, apprciate why its just irritating especially if parts dont come with all the bolts you need to do the job.

[Caesar]

I'm half way through getting my wheels refurbished and new Michelin Crossclimates fitted.

2 wheels done and refitted; dropping off the last two tomorrow. 

Considered Ferric silver but wasn't sure it would look as good against carbon black so played safe and went for BMW silver.

The colour looks slightly darker than the original silver  but I'm happy with it.

I was surprised to see the rims were made by Cromodora. The Crossclimates are also made in Italy so should be a perfect match.

Addit: Even the centre caps are Italian! 😄

Edited June 9, 2023 by Caesar
Image added

[Andrew]

9 hours ago, Matthew said:

Stretch bolts are always single use.As soon as there’s a secondary angle of rotation after torquing, you don’t want to be reusing the bolts.

This 

I wouldn’t risk reusing critical bolts on suspension components especially when it’s only a single bolt. 

Autodoc will sell “fixing packs” which includes all nuts and bolts needed for a suspension arm swap. Lemforder too which are OEM.

But yes it’s another £15-18 on top of the arm that costs ~£60.

[Andrew]

9 hours ago, Steve84N said:

Agreed. However, there's also quite a few where the repair manual says replace and they don't have an angle. The cost soon racks up, I've spent hundreds on bolts doing all the work I've done. 

They’ll be the aluminium bolts most likely. Soft stuff needs chucking after each use. 

[Andrew]

6 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

Yes, apprciate why its just irritating especially if parts dont come with all the bolts you need to do the job.

Quite common across all manufacturers and the aftermarket sadly. Agree it’s frustrating. 

Only one that bucked that trend was the FAG wheel bearings for both my E60 and F10. They all came with new bolts. 

[Steve84N]

I have the same Cromodora wheels and they are very heavy. 

[duncan-uk]

2 hours ago, Andrew said:

Quite common across all manufacturers and the aftermarket sadly. Agree it’s frustrating. 

Only one that bucked that trend was the FAG wheel bearings for both my E60 and F10. They all came with new bolts. 

Its another thing to frustrate the DIYer like you and me, sell an arm and include all the consumables - i'll "happily" pay £10 more an arm to know i have all i need for a job rather than start and find i'm short 😡

[Steve84N]

It's been a busy few evenings for me this week. When I replaced the clutch & flywheel we ran out of time to do the clutch slave cylinder so that has now been replaced with a metal Sachs one. Ever since I've had the car I sometimes get an odd screech which tends to happen when using the clutch but wasn't fixed by a new clutch.

I think when the clutch delay valve was removed it wasn't bled that well, it certainly wasn't flushed through as the fluid was straw coloured. I made a hash of it first time using a vacuum handlheld pump and ended up pushing air back up into the system. Cue last minute Amazon purchase of a pressure bleeder. Connected it up and started pressurising only to find fluid leaking out as the cap had maxed out on the threads and not on the seal. Cleaned up and doubled the seal inside the cap, then it worked. After much clutch pedal pumping I have a nice blood blister but it feels like it should.

In my quest to resolve a vibration at speed I have now swapped out my propshaft with a second hand one that's five years younger and supposedly lower mileage from Germany. It's a risk as in theory the flanges on the gearbox and differential are part of the balanced assembly. I figured you never see weights on those parts and they should be OK with a pretty homogenous weight and not hanging in midair. More money on nuts and bolts...

The other issue I wanted to fix before our road trip to Italy next weekend is I think I didn't seat the centre support bearing properly when I replaced it on my original propshaft. I had a horrible sound that could be a bearing not spinning right. When I got it out now it wasn't horrendous but it didn't spin as well as a new one and is only a couple of thousand miles old. This time I bought some pipe to use as a drift and it slid on much better so fingers crossed.

Tomorrow I need to get the underbody braces and undertray back on. Then it's a few test drives over the next week to make sure everything is alright. Maybe also find time to fit the rest of the Silverstone Merino door cards.

[Andrew]

Ideally a prop centre bearing wants to be pressed on over the splined end, making sure the drift/pipe is only making contact with the inner race of the centre bearing.

You can just make out the shiny bit of the inner race in the picture above.

Installing the bearing using race that isn't in contact with the surface you are installing it in or over or worse still using the race to install it, will seriously shorten the bearings life.  Youtube is full of videos of folk using the wrong race when installing a bearing.

It looks quite tricky to do the centre bearing unless you have a drift/tube of exactly the right size to go over the splines and on to the inner race and a press to install it with.  

[Steve84N]

@Andrewthe first time I didn't have a suitable drift and was tapping it in with a punch going around the circumference using the old bearing in between. This time I had a pipe that fitted exactly over the splines and was no thicker than the inner race. Went on with a rubber mallet.

However, this morning when I've gone to refit the underside the clutch pedal is half dead again so clearly there's some air left. Time for another round of bleeding after I got some more fluid. Don't you just love working on cars... 

[Andrew]

30 minutes ago, Steve84N said:

However, this morning when I've gone to refit the underside the clutch pedal is half dead again so clearly there's some air left. Time for another round of bleeding after I got some more fluid. Don't you just love working on cars... 

Oh dear, I helped @VPCAPTAIN bleed the clutch on his (excuse the swearing) Audi Q3, he needed a new concentric slave cylinder which cured the problem.  Well the ultimate curing of his problem was when he traded in the Q3 for his F11. 😆

Presumably you replace the slave cylinder when you did the clutch?

Never having messed with manual BMW gearboxes, what's the set up for the slave cylinder?  Is it a concentric salve cylinder (pain the in ass to remove) or and external cylinder operating a traditional clutch arm?

[Steve84N]

@Andrewit's an external one I've swapped after doing the clutch because we ran out of time before. 

[Andrew]

Thanks for that @Steve84N, could just be in need of a good pressure bleed?

Put as much brake fluid DOT 4LV thru it as you can.  You haven't mixed different specs of brake fluid have you?

[Steve84N]

Rode to the local Shell this morning to get some more DOT 4 fluid and pushed through another 0.5l. I did get a few bubbles out. Pedal seemed to go stiff again so buttoned it all back up. The underbody brace has a bolt where my Quickjack lift goes but otherwise I have plenty of room to work with them.

On the nursery run after work the pedal wasn't returning properly. Cue mild panic and despair at the thought of getting it jacked up and having to do it a third time... Decided to try pumping the pedal for a few minutes in a car park and it began to reduce the dead travel. I think it'll be alright now but more test driving to be sure. 

The clutch feels very different to before. It was soft, vague and the biting point was only just off the floor. It also struggled to get into some of the gears sometimes. All points to air in the system. I've only done less than 10 miles but it seems to be going into gear as you'd expect, the biting point is higher and more controllable. 

Fingers crossed for the motorway journey tomorrow for the vibration... I did get up to 60-70mph briefly today and the car didn't shake to bits. 

Edited June 9, 2023 by Steve84N

[Caesar]

On 06/06/2023 at 22:34, Steve84N said:

I have the same Cromodora wheels and they are very heavy. 

My physio would agree with you!😁

[Caesar]

All 4 wheels now refurbed, polished and refitted with new tyres.

Thought I'd take photos as they won't look this pristine for long.

My wife thinks I'm too old to be getting excited over wheels and tyres, but I know you guys will be more understanding...

BTW, I took the trouble to align the centre caps with the valve to avoid being called out by certain administrators😉.

Trip to Manchester this afternoon and looking forward to see how the Crossclimates compare to the GY Eagle Assymetrics. 

[Andrew]

1 hour ago, Caesar said:

 

BTW, I took the trouble to align the centre caps with the valve to avoid being called out by certain administrators😉.

Oi!

It’s the rules, don’t you know. 😆

[Steve84N]

@CaesarI'll be interested to know your thoughts on the tyres. I know I like the F1 Asymmetric and they are OK in the winter, except in snow/ice.

The CrossClimate I have considered but never tried, worried about how much you sacrifice in these warmer months. I don't do enough mileage to warrant two sets anymore. The tread would outlast the tyre's age and that feels like a waste.