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What did you do to your F10, F11 or F07 today?


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No I’m compensating! I had a tiddly one like Andrew’s, but CarPlay was a must for me, there was a built in 10” version but went for the 12.3” Android replacement screen as it had the similar look to my old F30 and just freshened things up a bit 🙂

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Absolutely, the existing iDrive is retained, its just in the background. 

The screen itself runs its own OS with the Carplay and Android Auto built in.  Also has media player, sat nav, web, basically anything you'd expect of an Android Tablet/Phone.  You can download Apps from the Play Store to it etc.

Its touch screen but you can also use the iDrive knob to make your way round the screen, particularly useful if you are driving.  If you press and hold the Menu button on the iDrive controls it flicks back to the normal iDrive and all its functionality is retained.  It will also automatically switch to aftermarket or stock Reverse/360 Cam's when you select reverse.

Great upgrade for the likes of us with little tiddlers and no NAV 😄

Edited by skyjawa
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Public holiday over here today, so I took advantage of the sunshine and got the control arms swapped out.

Very simple job, but removing and refitting all the plastic takes forever!

While I was there I also changed the little clip on the front left wheel station that holds the sensor cable in place, and also the two inserts on both sides that hold the sides of the nosecone up... been meaning to do them for an age.

Test drive went great and I'll remeasure the resting heights tomorrow.

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Edited by HandyAndy
Crep typong
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Both front hub centres to wheel arch remeasured this morning..... by tape measure, 39cm both sides. Within a couple of mm so pretty impressed with myself.

Drive in this morning felt good... no pull or drift... easy to one thumb steer.

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7 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

Undertray removal is a RPITA!!

These really help with that job

Removal, powered ratchet, so much easier.

IMG-9549.jpg

 

and for re-fitting, a mechanics skateboard with trays to keep the eleventy million bolts in.  I use a bespoke 8mm nut driver to refit, don't want to over torque them.

BAA61-B05-B052-4-A14-9222-EE1-D611-E5-C9

 

If my memory serves me correct the undertray bolts on the E39 were captive to the tray and only ever needed to be turned thru a partial turn to remove/refit.  But that will be more expensive and probably heavier, but it meant you didn't loose the bolts.

 

I also replaced the nasty metal clip nuts which just rust and cause the bolts to shear.

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with these https://www.vehicleclips.co.uk/products/plastic-body-nut-screw-grommet-bmw-07147311312

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Smidge of ceramic grease on the bolt threads on re-assembly to stop them rusting and wont damage the plastic.

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16 minutes ago, Andrew said:

Washed the bird muck off it!

D5-E41197-D558-4068-8-C0-D-30015-EE654-B

I park mine under a couple of bushes so usually gets covered in birds crap too but I found this and it seem to be doing the trick at the moment.

 

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Edited by F10-65
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59 minutes ago, F10-65 said:

I park mine under a couple of bushes so usually gets covered in birds crap too but I found this and it seem to be doing the trick at the moment.

 

IMG_0785.jpeg

 

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Replaced the original Continental water pump and the thermostat. After nearly 12 years and 95,000 miles it was right in the danger zone. Went for a full metal housing Pierburg pump. 

Also had to redo the oil filter housing gaskets as the Viton ones I bought and fitted last year were leaking as badly as the original shot ones. Used genuine BMW this time so fingers crossed that's it. Replaced the nearly new auxiliary belt as it was fouled by leaking oil/coolant. 

Five hours all in working with a mechanic friend. Didn't take any pictures other than the garbage! 

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Thanks @Steve84N

You are right, its the electronics that fail first, but you do get some warning in that they will fire off a fault code when they start dying.  Or an EML if/when they pack up completely.

Did you bring the pump up and out or down past the roll bar?

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@AndrewI've seen lots of videos where people take it out the top, assuming you've removed the radiator fan which is a must. I planned to drop the ARB and had bought four new bolts so with that swung out of the way it came out of the bottom. The ARB bolts are 100Nm + 105 degrees but the bigger ones didn't want to do the full angle. The reason they're so hefty is they also go through the steering rack. 

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What I did today.... collect my post.

I'm guessing AutoDoc are a little short on small jiffy bags.... 10ea of the little plastic rawlplug jobbies that the wheel arch liners screws screw into (what a mouthful) in a box big enough for about 1000 !!

I'll fit the 1ea I'm actually missing some sunny day soon 😎

IMG_20230522_210030.jpg

Edited by HandyAndy
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Fitted my MMI box to run Android Auto on CIC. Not too bad a job if you've pulled an interior apart before but it was tricky getting all the wires in behind the headunit. I ran the AUX and USB cable into the back of the centre console storage by drilling a small hole, can't be having wires hanging on display. Although it only claimed to work as wired Android Auto it works wirelessly too. 

Unfortunately I had to revert back to the original idrive controller as my lovely ceramic NBT one wouldn't work. The NBT runs on high speed CAN and if I set the MMI up for that it worked on the OEM screens but not on the Android ones. Nevermind, I'll take the updated infotainment and sell on the ceramic controller. 

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9 hours ago, Steve84N said:

@HandyAndyhave you got a link to them on Autodoc please? 

Find the part number from realoem then copy and paste it into the Autodoc app. 

The Autodoc app is cheaper (than desktop website) and on Monday the %discount is the highest.

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10 hours ago, Steve84N said:

@HandyAndyhave you got a link to them on Autodoc please? 

From RealOEM it's part 07146976114

In Germany it's Romix clip C70334.

Supplier will vary depending on your locality.

As a note it's listed as not fitting the F11... it's near identical to a broken one from mine I compared it with.

Edited by HandyAndy
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6 hours ago, Andrew said:

Find the part number from realoem then copy and paste it into the Autodoc app. 

The Autodoc app is cheaper (than desktop website) and on Monday the %discount is the highest.

Yeh I've been using Autodoc a lot since buying the 535i... Highest discount doesn't always equal lowest prices as they are dynamic too. The flywheel I needed ranged from £350 to £700 over a few months, not all of that variation is the discount percentage. 

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Got an indicated 60.3 mpg over 65 miles at an average speed of 52.3mpg on a recent trip to the Fylde Coast. 

Didn't go over an indicated 70mph or 68mph on the sat nav and pressed the accelerator lightly when needing to speed up.

First time have hit 60mpg - not sure it will happen again...lol

Edited by E39mad
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