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What did you do to your F10, F11 or F07 today?


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Got my autobox fill plug adapter.

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3/8" square drive to 8mm hex.

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You need it to make life easy for yourself to get to the fill plug on the side of the transmission as there isn't room for a ratchet head, bit holder and 8mm allen key bit.

 

If you can't undo the fill plug and you have already drained the sump, you are in a world of pain! 

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3 hours ago, Andrew said:

If you can't undo the fill plug and you have already drained the sump, you are in a world of pain! 

Oooooft - literally one of those situations that literally make me shudder!

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4 hours ago, Andrew said:

Got my autobox fill plug adapter.

IMG-4385.jpg

3/8" square drive to 8mm hex.

IMG-4386.jpg

You need it to make life easy for yourself to get to the fill plug on the side of the transmission as there isn't room for a ratchet head, bit holder and 8mm allen key bit.

 

If you can't undo the fill plug and you have already drained the sump, you are in a world of pain! 

Sounds another thing to put the diyer off - once i'd found the plugs on the Alfa they came out with a socket and hex i've had for years - loads of room 🤪

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1 hour ago, F10-65 said:

It sounds like my front nearside bearing is on the way out at 96k

 

Get yourself a FAG bearing and a Lemforder control arm as the control arm needs to come out to access the wheel bearing retaining bolts unless the arm is relatively new and thus able to be removed from the hub without a fight.

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59 minutes ago, duncan-uk said:

Sounds another thing to put the diyer off - once i'd found the plugs on the Alfa they came out with a socket and hex i've had for years - loads of room 🤪

You know the rules, it's an excuse to buy yet another tool that will be used only once.  Jury is out on the available room to get a tool in between the side of the transmission tunnel (bodywork) and the plug itself.  If you have a short leg Allen key you might be rightly but if you are like me (sufferer of automotive OCD) and want to torque the fill plug to the right spec you will need this adapter.

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£20 is a small price to pay for a tool that will get you out a tight spot. Plus a service at a garage on these boxes is funny money. 

Much better value than some joker who offered me a set of long reach combination spanners for a ridiculous price….

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Twice this year we’ve had a hard frost. Twice I can’t get in to the car.

 

i bought some Gummi the first time thinking it was the soft rubber beading on the inner door and frame. 

 

Turns out this morning it was the harder external rubber trim that had literally frozen on to the metal of the door.

 

used a bag filled with warm water got one open so I could start the car…

 

is there a magic cream/oil for this part/rubber?

 

all doors frozen solid and the boot too that has similar rubber on the bottom of the window.

 

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Edited by Skynet5
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On 24/02/2024 at 21:04, Dimsum said:

 

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Literally 1 week after fitting, I have scratched over half of this very rim…. It’s being repaired tomorrow… 🤦🏻‍♂️

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Software update question, aka todays random thought..

As far as I know, in the 3 years I’ve had the car, it’s never had a software update (or BMW have never told me if it has). This is the software version in my 2015 535d. 
 


 

Is this the latest for my car? The BMW website where you can check on your VIN says it is?

 

 

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There's something called i-level which you can't see without software like ISTA. That's the firmware that's running the car modules. I got mine updated to the latest possible version by someone who can do coding. There won't be any more updates for older cars so I just got the newest available. This can bring mild improvements in functionality or possibly mild annoyances if it changes something you don't like. I needed it to use a newer instrument cluster when I upgraded to 6WA. 

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13 hours ago, Dimsum said:

Software update question, aka todays random thought..

As far as I know, in the 3 years I’ve had the car, it’s never had a software update (or BMW have never told me if it has). This is the software version in my 2015 535d. 
 


 

Is this the latest for my car? The BMW website where you can check on your VIN says it is?

 

 

20240305_200841_Original.jpeg

If you take your key to the dealership, they can give you a printout with your current i-Level on it.

The latest iLevel for the F10/11 is F010-23-07-530 (July 2023).

There is nothing in it for the pre-LCI cars, at least not my May 2011 530d. I assume it is only for the LCI cars.

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Finished installing my Match speakers and they work great with the Match amplifier. The amp alone made a big improvement, more so than any upgraded speakers could on the stock one. Now the sound is much crisper, punchier and of course loud if you want it. Vocals are clearly audible and there's plenty of substance in the mid to lower ranges to make sure it sounds rounded and not tinny or fuzzy. 

Also, finally got the rear door cards in to complete the interior swap. Had to repair the clips on one side as both were broken. You can get away with one missing, but not two. BMW sell a repair kit, one clip screws in and there's even a hole in the door card ready for it because it's so common. The other just clips on once you cut off the remnants of the broken clip. Now I'm a pro at taking off the handle surrounds without snapping the clips... 

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I now have phantom rear door speakers as they came from an F10, mine are actually in the roof behind the passengers. 

Edited by Steve84N
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On 05/03/2024 at 20:24, Dimsum said:

Software update question, aka todays random thought..

As far as I know, in the 3 years I’ve had the car, it’s never had a software update (or BMW have never told me if it has). This is the software version in my 2015 535d. 
 


 

Is this the latest for my car? The BMW website where you can check on your VIN says it is?

 

 

All you are looking at there is the media interface software version and if there is no further update on the BMW website then that is it.

The iLevel as mentioned above is the software level across all modules that make the car tick and you need the likes of ESYS or ISTA to read the value. You can also read the iLevel version from an exported driver profile that is then read using a PC. This works on more recent cars of which yours maybe one. 

Edited by Matthew
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Just a key holder, I don't even have one as the manual console is different. I've never seen the point of them as the key lives in my pocket, just like it does before I get in and after I get out... 

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I suppose on cars without comfort access it may serve a bit more use as you’d need the key in hand to open, but as you say with CA it’s pointless, key stays in pocket the whole time.

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@Andrew I replaced that upper coolant hose today. You were right to be wary of that connection with the metal clamp... All the ones with a clip came off easily.

The clamped one is slid over a plastic connector that is barbed beyond the clamp. Furthermore, the clamp seems to be bonded to the hose so when you open it up with pliers it doesn't slide up the hose. The new one was also sort of 'melted' into the hose on one side. It ensures correct positioning but makes the job harder.

I'd recommend the following method:

- Remove the airbox and intake pipe. 

- Syringe out the coolant in the reservoir and save it in a bottle. 

- I also removed the charge pipe up to the intercooler outlet pipe but it's probably not necessary if you do the next step instead. 

- Remove the expansion tank, two bolts visible up top, one electrical connector underneath and the coolant pipe held on with a clip. This gives you the room to get your hands in to grasp that tricky pipe connection. 

- Take off the other three clip connections. I did end up cutting the large pipe to take off the OFHG one first. Then you can wiggle it off the radiator. The tank connection is very easy. 

- As the metal clamp won't slide up the pipe I took a Dremel to it and cut through in two places at least halfway round. This renders the clip ineffective and relieves the force. Then you can carefully cut the pipe from the plastic joint back up the pipe. Finally, you can peel the pipe off of the plastic joint. 

- Once all back together run the bleed procedure. Ignition on, fan to min and temp to max, foot flat on the accelerator for 10s. Top up with coolant as required during the cycle. Monitor coolant level over next few drives as there's likely to be some bubbles yet to find their way out.

It took me three hours but it'd be more like 1-2 if you know how to go about tackling the job. I lost some coolant but not too much. I put back what I saved from the tank plus maybe 2-3 litres extra. You'll want at least 3 litres spare, I've got double that handy from two BMW bottles, plus the same in distilled water, plus some I still had made up from keeping it topped up.

Let's hope this is my leak! 

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