F10-65 Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Mine had a chap round to touch up a scratch I'd made on her rear bumper when I reversed into a low post, while I was distracted from the bleep by talking to someone out the window. Done on the drive at home this morning. I check all the ones I see on the street and I felt so dirty having it there. But now its done.... Yeee haaaa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyjawa Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 (edited) Replaced the 2 passenger side comfort access handles so now the whole car has had them changed. Fixed (hopefully) the leaky passenger rear door, typical thing the inner seal had come away in the corner. Cleaned as best I could with isopropyl and resealed with PU18 - damn that stuff is minging to work with! Edited January 24 by skyjawa 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 1 hour ago, Munzy said: Pick them up on Friday but not going on until alignment is done - old tyres had some uneven wear so want to give the new ones properly set up axles. I would think you’d be better to get the alignment set up on the new tyres and not the old ones. That wheel/hub cleaner is a great toy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munzy Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 1 hour ago, Andrew said: I would think you’d be better to get the alignment set up on the new tyres and not the old ones. Agree, new ones will go on the night before the alignment gets done. Had a Hunter done four years ago at a different garage so will be interesting to compare the print outs... will post here 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0011718 Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Changed the battery in my key fob! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 Stuck the battery on to charge as it’s been a while since it last had a charge but I have been doing more miles. Ordered a battery tester to see if my battery at 11 years old might be on its way out due to the occasional electrical temper tantrum it’s been having lately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullinsj08 Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 11 hours ago, Andrew said: Stuck the battery on to charge as it’s been a while since it last had a charge but I have been doing more miles. Ordered a battery tester to see if my battery at 11 years old might be on its way out due to the occasional electrical temper tantrum it’s been having lately. Could be. I recently replaced the battery and ever since it has been far better behaved. No more random crackling from the speakers and the iDrive is less temperamental. The battery I removed from the car was the original from April 2011. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UCB Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Which is the OEM manufacturer for brake discs? My F11 has a severe vibration under braking after replacing pads last November and I'm going to have to do discs now as well. Would rather supply my own parts than rely necessarily on the cheapest available from my trusted local. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyjawa Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 There are several iirc. I think TRW, Textar, Pagid and Jurid all have at some point. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyjawa Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 So today I looked at 2 things, first was the error: 800FB6: Outside mirror heating or electric chrome left defective The wiring of my mirrors had been fudged so I got 2 new connectors and wired them in, drivers side fine but passenger side still whinging. Started the car and checked with a laser thermometer the glass temps, drivers side was climbing past 20 degrees, passenger side 4! Went to see if it was wiring or mirror itself, luckily had a spare drivers side one so plugged that in and repeated the procedure, straight away the replacement mirror started warming up. So it’s the mirror itself. Ordered a replacement 2nd hand one from eBay so hopefully that will fix it. Second job was the wonderful Grommet of Doom! And boy am I glad I looked at it, had I left it alone there’s no doubt in time I would have a very wet footwell! The tide line was half way up too! The usual compost was present and the grommet was starting to rot (though not as bad as others I’ve seen!), so cleaned it all up and fitted a brand new one in its place, and cut a bit out of the seal at the bottom of the cover as others have done to allow water out. all in all a good mornings work and glad it’s done! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 1 hour ago, UCB said: Which is the OEM manufacturer for brake discs? No one actually knows, it might even be BMW themselves. There are no manufacturers names on the genuine discs I bought. Front and rear pads are Galfer OEM. I'd never heard of them until I took mine apart. Other brakes to consider, Jurid, ATE, Textar, Brembo, febi, Pagid. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Discovered why I was getting an intermittent parking brake fault! And while testing the battery, I discovered this problem! And I need a new battery too! Oh bother! But more importantly I’m still mobile and able to park on a hill after an afternoon pottering about with it all. 2 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 On the continued quest to make my 535i as smooth as possible this afternoon's job was replacing the crankshaft vibration damper pulley. Whilst my new engine was being fitted by CPC Engineering they did notice a slight vibration and tried another pulley they had but said it made no difference. However, with 100,000 miles on mine I thought it was still worth doing when I've now got a brand new engine. The pulley itself is the thick end of £500 new. I found one for £175 being sold by a company in Germany. They fit new engines but take off certain parts to reuse the customer's old ones and then sell on the new parts to help the customer save money. Therefore, I got a brand new part for a used price. The condition of the pulley is consistent with the description, it looks like new but has marks from fitting. It's not a bad job as you don't have to touch the hefty crankshaft bolt. I took off the silver piece in the picture. Once you get the radiator fan out there's plenty of room to work. The eight bolts are only 35Nm so I didn't need anything to hold the engine still, simply having the belt on was enough. Here you can see the crank seal guard I have in place so that it's physically impossible to ingest a broken auxiliary belt. There was nothing to distinguish between old and new other than some rust, with no play to be felt by hand. Here's a comparison of old and new. So, was it worth it...? It's always tricky with marginal gains but this thing weighs 3.4kg, so even a very slight imbalance will have adverse effects. Before there was a small amount of vibration through the gearknob at idle, now it's all but gone. Previously I'd get a tiny bit of resonance and pulsing at around 2-3krpm, noticeable going up a hill on steady throttle. I've only driven a few miles at low speed but I swear it's improved. It feels turbine smooth now, like a straight six should. I doubt you need to do this on lower mileage engines but for me it's good peace of mind to have such a heavy weight spinning smoothly so that it doesn't damage my new motor. It's a bit like the rear wheel bearings I changed, there was no discernible play but with heavy wheels spinning at high speed the forces at play are huge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgc22 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 On 26/01/2024 at 13:56, skyjawa said: So today I looked at 2 things, first was the error: 800FB6: Outside mirror heating or electric chrome left defective The wiring of my mirrors had been fudged so I got 2 new connectors and wired them in, drivers side fine but passenger side still whinging. Started the car and checked with a laser thermometer the glass temps, drivers side was climbing past 20 degrees, passenger side 4! Went to see if it was wiring or mirror itself, luckily had a spare drivers side one so plugged that in and repeated the procedure, straight away the replacement mirror started warming up. So it’s the mirror itself. Ordered a replacement 2nd hand one from eBay so hopefully that will fix it. Second job was the wonderful Grommet of Doom! And boy am I glad I looked at it, had I left it alone there’s no doubt in time I would have a very wet footwell! The tide line was half way up too! The usual compost was present and the grommet was starting to rot (though not as bad as others I’ve seen!), so cleaned it all up and fitted a brand new one in its place, and cut a bit out of the seal at the bottom of the cover as others have done to allow water out. all in all a good mornings work and glad it’s done! As a fairly new f11 owner, where is this and what am I looking for? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 I’ve done about 50 miles since yesterday’s escapades with the boot flood and battery cable. The only thing I’ve noticed is the stop start is now not working which I’m assuming is down to there being no IBS in the circuit. Everything else is fine and even with all this rain, the boot battery well is dry. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 I still haven't got rid of the chatter in my auxiliary belt, despite changing the tensioner, idler pulley, engine and crank pulley. Therefore, the most likely culprit is the alternator not running smoothly anymore. It can be seen in the video above. Prices vary wildly and I don't want a cheap new one but neither do I want to pay several hundred pounds. Germany wins again and I've found one in what appears to be excellent condition for £140 delivered. The second hand parts sold in the UK are absolute trash in comparison. The job is a little longwinded with the need to drop the AC compressor and remove the alternator mounting bracket but within my capability. When it's done it'll only be the AC compressor left that's old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 Does your alternator have a direct drive pulley? like mine? Might have an over running clutch on it as yours is a manual so you might just need to replace the pulley rather than the whole unit. You might even be able to source replacement alternator bearings if you Google hard enough for long enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 (edited) @AndrewI looked into replacing just the pulley before and the Koyo one it has is unavailable worldwide. I think mine is an overrun pulley as you can see the black bearing cover, even though the 99% test for one is if it has a cover and mine does not. Then there's the fact the inside looks horrifically rusty and I'd probably have to remove the unit to get it off. My general rule is that with 100k miles most things on the car are fairly worn out. I want to keep it for the next 100k so swapping the whole alternator is easier. Think I might have messed up as the one I've bought looks solid in the picture? If I can find an alternative pulley then perhaps that's worth a go after all. Edited January 28 by Steve84N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 Are you sure? That looks like a bearing to me, it’s got writing on the face like you get on bearings. My pulley is round in the middle yours is hex where the pulley removal tool engages it. But with you on thinking at 100k you are approaching lifetime on components Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 (edited) Yeh, I edited my reply to say I do have a bearing pulley. The one I've ordered is solid and for automatic. Could I still get it and change the pulley for an overrun one, or is the alternator itself likely to be different? I guess the shaft might not be the same. This is what I need but can't find. https://m.autodoc.co.uk/as-pl/15405690 Some of the alternators I've found say 12V instead of 14V like the OE one, is that genuinely a lower voltage that won't work or a naming thing? Edited January 28 by Steve84N 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted January 28 Author Share Posted January 28 Yeah the shaft will be the same. Only difference might be electrical size of alternator. You don’t have an electrically controlled automatic gearbox to power. Might only be 5-10 amps somethings of nothings…. Defo worth changing the pulley tho, that’s all part of the FEAD so all wears at same rate as belt, tensioner and idler etc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyjawa Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 7 hours ago, Sgc22 said: As a fairly new f11 owner, where is this and what am I looking for? Thanks Handy thread from Andrew here: It’s actually pretty easy, but an adjustable handled ratchet really helps, I took my time and I reckon max 2 hours start to finish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 (edited) @Andrewhow do you read this? The first link is my alternator for a Sept 11 built car and the part for 03/12 says not exchangeable retrospectively. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=MU72-EUR-09-2011-F11-BMW-535i&mg=12&sg=20&diagId=12_1558&q=12317591529 Then when you look at the later part it says exchangeable retrospectively. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=FR72-EUR-12-2012-F10-BMW-535i&mg=12&sg=20&diagId=12_1558&q=12317616119 Does that mean an 03/12 car can use either the newer or older part but my 09/11 car can only use the older part? Seems odd that it wouldn't work both ways... I can find the 03/12 version complete alternator for £200 but I can't find the older one new. Edit: Executive decision made, I've bought the later version with freewheel pulley as the specification all looks the same. The Denso catalogue doesn't have my older one listed which points to it being replaced rather than added to with the later one. Edited January 29 by Steve84N 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgc22 Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 12 hours ago, skyjawa said: Handy thread from Andrew here: It’s actually pretty easy, but an adjustable handled ratchet really helps, I took my time and I reckon max 2 hours start to finish. Thanks for that, way beyond my capability. Looks like a time bomb that will need addressed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 Celebrated its 11th birthday today. 63.3k miles 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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