What did you do to your F10, F11 or F07 today?

[Cadwell Parker]

Winter wheels shod with Michelin Crossclimates fitted yesterday. This is the third time these tyres have gone onto the car. 20000 miles covered and still an even 5mm tread left all round. Great tyres.

[skyjawa]

Ordered a ZF Gearbox service kit from Autodoc.  £191 delivered 🙂

[F10-65]

6 hours ago, skyjawa said:

Ordered a ZF Gearbox service kit from Autodoc.  £191 delivered 🙂

Is this the one?

1087.298.365 ZF GETRIEBE Gearbox service kit contains entire oil change set ▷ AUTODOC price and review

I know the price is higher but is this the one

[skyjawa]

Yes that’s the one.

their prices fluctuate and today supposedly the discounts via their app was more than via the web, but when I looked the web was showing £30 cheaper (app 258, web 228), plus I’ve used them for a few years now so had around £35 extra loyalty points to put towards it.

Edited November 24, 2023 by skyjawa

[Steve84N]

Ordered four new wheel bearings from Autodoc and the hub part for the rear which comes separately because I still have a bloody vibration/sound at higher speed.

[Shakeel.j]

Have you checked your wheels/ tyres

11 hours ago, Steve84N said:

Ordered four new wheel bearings from Autodoc and the hub part for the rear which comes separately because I still have a bloody vibration/sound at higher speed.

 

[F10-65]

12 hours ago, Steve84N said:

Ordered four new wheel bearings from Autodoc and the hub part for the rear which comes separately because I still have a bloody vibration/sound at higher speed.

If its the 70-80mph, feels like balance is out, then its the front control arms.

 

 

[Steve84N]

Except it's not because I've changed all the front arms and checked the balance of the wheels. Already done the obvious suspects and far more besides. 

I figure that on 12yrs and 100k miles it's no bad thing to do wheel bearings anyway. Just a shame I didn't commit and buy them earlier because I've literally just had the brakes in pieces for a full refresh. Doh! 

[Andrew]

Fitted the winter wheels today

Checked out the brakes and suspension, all appears in order, well the rear pads are wearing out so I think a new set of rear pads and discs is required. Topped up the screen wash and most importantly checked for fault codes which pleasingly there were none which is reassuring after having the dash lit up like an Xmas tree when I was doing the oil cooler gaskets.

 

And no trace of the faults I had from it stalling, which it’s not done since I can’t remember now.

 

[duncan-uk]

Not sure why you bother fitting summer tyres🤪

[Andrew]

14 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

Not sure why you bother fitting summer tyres🤪

Because it steers better on the 19” summers, but you wouldn’t understand that  🤭

[duncan-uk]

I'm not sure you do the amount of fixing vs driving that goes on 🤪

[F10-65]

Which brand air filter should i buy?

And cabin filter?

[F10-65]

On 25/11/2023 at 12:52, Steve84N said:

Except it's not because I've changed all the front arms and checked the balance of the wheels. Already done the obvious suspects and far more besides. 

I figure that on 12yrs and 100k miles it's no bad thing to do wheel bearings anyway. Just a shame I didn't commit and buy them earlier because I've literally just had the brakes in pieces for a full refresh. Doh! 

Serious question aimed at everybody:

Is that wobble a given on an F10?  Every review I watch on YouTube tells me the ride quality is less than desirable.   So does every F10 suffer the same wobble from factory?  Nobody seems to be able to finger the actual solution.

Just want to put it out there

 

[Steve84N]

@F10-65I usually buy Mann filters. 

There are an awful lot of people complaining about vibrations in the F10 and a plethora of supposed fixes. They seem very sensitive to things...

I have changed so much on mine in a little over a year, trying to get it running 100%. Things that have made a difference include a replacement propshaft and last week new brakes. Both gave a reduction in vibration but not eliminated it completely.

All the bushes I've done didn't really change anything in terms of vibration, which leads me to believe that it's usually rotating masses that cause issues. The last thing I've got left to do that spins is the wheel bearings. It better work! 

[Andrew]

6 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

I'm not sure you do the amount of fixing vs driving that goes on 🤪

Doing 50 miles a day for work at the moment. And will be for the next 2 years….

38 minutes ago, F10-65 said:

Which brand air filter should i buy?

And cabin filter?

Mine are currently febi. Good quality German made filters can be had at good prices. 

I have used Mann, Mahle and Hengst in the past. 
 

Stick with a decent OEM brand.

[Cadwell Parker]

11 hours ago, F10-65 said:

Which brand air filter should i buy?

And cabin filter?

I've been using Mahle filters in my F11 for the nearly 5 years/113000 miles. Good quality, no issues and can be found online for reasonable prices with a bit searching.

[Andy5150]

11 hours ago, Cadwell Parker said:

I've been using Mahle filters in my F11 for the nearly 5 years/113000 mile

I can vouch for good quality OEM filters too. I went for the Mann oil filter over Mahle but only because it was a fraction cheaper. In the grand scheme of things though none of the filters seem all that expensive.

@Cadwell Parker I see your F11 is on 113k miles now? That’s identical to me.. aside from the rear airbags (plus solenoid valve as a preventative change) and what I suspect to be rear ARB links clonking, nothing has yet ‘gone wrong’ / worn out in the time I’ve owned it. Curious to know if you’ve had any recent big jobs on your F11 that might give me an idea of what to expect in (for me) uncharted territory north of 100k miles?

Thanks, Andy

[Cadwell Parker]

19 hours ago, Andy5150 said:

Curious to know if you’ve had any recent big jobs on your F11

Nothing major no. It's had an air compressor (I suspect it might only have needed a solenoid valve but the mechanic involved fitted a whole new compressor assembly), air springs, battery, front suspension bottom arms, 2x front and rear brake discs and pads, shock absorbers all round and a front wheel bearing. Also had the gearbox serviced twice by official ZF agent. Not cheap but good for peace of mind with a long term car that does a few miles.

The car has actually covered 172000 miles now, 113000 of them done by me. All of the above is just stuff you might normally expect to have to replace from time to time, apart from the air spring/compressor which are a well known F11 weak point so I'm very happy with the car 😀

[Liam2594]

On 26/11/2023 at 22:37, Steve84N said:

@F10-65I usually buy Mann filters. 

There are an awful lot of people complaining about vibrations in the F10 and a plethora of supposed fixes. They seem very sensitive to things...

I have changed so much on mine in a little over a year, trying to get it running 100%. Things that have made a difference include a replacement propshaft and last week new brakes. Both gave a reduction in vibration but not eliminated it completely.

All the bushes I've done didn't really change anything in terms of vibration, which leads me to believe that it's usually rotating masses that cause issues. The last thing I've got left to do that spins is the wheel bearings. It better work! 

 

In all honesty, I had a new F10 in 2016, it's the only one I've had that hasn't had a wobble. I've had four F11's and each of them other than the highest mileage 2012 has had the wobble. The only thing the 2012 F11 had had that the others hadn't was engine mounts. Whether that was the cause or not I don't know.

[Steve84N]

@Liam2594mine's just ticked over 100k and I've done the following within the last year:

- Replacement lower mileage propshaft 

- Propshaft rear rubber guibo & centre support bearing 

- Gearbox, engine and differential mounts 

- All front suspension control arms

- New crate engine, flywheel, clutch and virtually new gearbox (1,250km)

- New discs, pads, pistons & seals

- New dampers and top mounts all round

- Rebalanced the wheels

Haven't touched the rear suspension control arms or subframe bushes. Awaiting delivery of four new wheel bearings. It's close to being all new mechanically! 

 

Edited November 28, 2023 by Steve84N

[Andrew]

@Steve84N might be worth checking out your CV joints.

Its not unheard of for them to wear and cause a vibration. 

If you are in there doing the rear wheel bearings.......

.....and your hub nuts look like this, a new driveshaft might not be a bad plan.

[Steve84N]

@Andrewthat's a good point. The problem I have is the driveshaft looks different between manual and automatic, 2mm bigger diameter on the manual, according to: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=MU72-EUR-09-2011-F11-BMW-535i&diagId=33_1466

Places like Autodoc list a driveshaft for £130 each but for auto. The differential is a shorter final drive on manual, not sure if that means different casing too in terms of compatibility.

Autodoc list the CV joint for £40, but once again for auto. What are the chances that's compatible with the manual driveshaft? 

A manual driveshaft from BMW is about £1,000 each! 

I'd be happy to spend in the low hundreds as a whilst I'm in there but £2k is big money. I don't think my nut looks anywhere near as bad as that, so I can only hope the joints are still OK. 

I presume that parts are not cross compatible if the diameter of the shaft is different? 

[Liam2594]

20 hours ago, Steve84N said:

@Liam2594mine's just ticked over 100k and I've done the following within the last year:

- Replacement lower mileage propshaft 

- Propshaft rear rubber guibo & centre support bearing 

- Gearbox, engine and differential mounts 

- All front suspension control arms

- New crate engine, flywheel, clutch and virtually new gearbox (1,250km)

- New discs, pads, pistons & seals

- New dampers and top mounts all round

- Rebalanced the wheels

Haven't touched the rear suspension control arms or subframe bushes. Awaiting delivery of four new wheel bearings. It's close to being all new mechanically! 

 

Honestly one F11 I had, had a buckled wheel, changed it and the vibration was still there. Never did get to the bottom of it. As you've said I do wonder if it's just a thing once they get to a certain age. There must be something that causes it. 

[Andrew]

@Steve84N

Looking on realoem, whilst the driveshafts are bigger in diameter for a manual, the differential seals are the same diameter which implies the shaft diameter and thus input to the CV joint is the same diameter.

Also the wheel bearings and flanges are the same manual v auto so the outer CV joint must be the same size too.