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Bmw 535d front control arms


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Posted (edited)

Hi guys.

Just had arms done on my 535d,

Dosnt seem to be done correctly  car is riding high.

Is there a correct way of fitting them?

I did all 3

Thnx 

Graham 

Edited by Graham
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Did you tighten the bolts on the bushes at the subframe at ride height/with the weight of the car on them?

Main wishbone arm fitting 

Front banana arm tension strut fitting 

 

 

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17 minutes ago, Graham said:

Garage did it mate so I presume not

Ah I assumed you did it when you said 

1 hour ago, Graham said:

 

I did all 3

 

Take it back and ask them to slacken them all off and replace the bolts and tighten at ride height.

Bolts are stretch bolts so need replacing each time they get undone. 

It’s normal procedure when replacing suspension components to tighten their bolts at ride height so as not to stress up bushes or affect ride height. Garage should know that. 
 

Assuming the garage fitted decent OEM or genuine parts and not cheap Chineseium grade made to incorrect dimensions. 

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Just now, Graham said:

I supplied the parts, mayle Hd

Meyle HD, yeah they are good. 
 

Ask the garage if they tightened it up with car at ride height 

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On 06/07/2024 at 22:34, Graham said:

Will I need a complete set of bolts for all the arms mate?

What a pain, I asked garage if he knew what he was doing.

Did you originally buy the bolts and supply them with the arms to the garage, or just the arms? 

The answer is yes, all the bolts on the arms are of the stretch variety so the torque settings will have a specific xxNm setting plus an additional angle. It is this additional angle that stretches the bolts so they should never be used twice.

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I find this frustrating with parts like this that if you need stretch bolts then they should be supplied. Omission can only encourage people to reuse but is also frustrating if you don’t know. Makes ordering tricker too. 

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11 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

I find this frustrating with parts like this that if you need stretch bolts 

Only cos you don’t read my posts properly…. 😝

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I use the Royal Mail plenty.

When I sell my stuff on eBay, I ask the postie to bring me a sticky pre printed  postage label and off my parcel goes. 

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I'm really struggling to get this put right mate, 

My car has adaptive suspension.

Does it need setting to 90mm the same as in your instructions?

 

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3 minutes ago, Graham said:

 

My car has adaptive suspension.

I don't know enough about the adaptive suspension I'm afraid.

The 90mm dimension is for MSport coil springs.

4 minutes ago, Graham said:

Is there a sequence to follow when doing all 3 arms?

I didn't follow any particular sequence other than ensuring car was at ride height when torqueing the bolts.

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Most control arms should be allowed to swivel up, and down, so the holding bolts should do just that, hold the control arms, if the garage did the bolts up with the Milwaukee gun, so tight that they are clamped, then the bushes will probably need replacing inside a year.

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37 minutes ago, Steve VH said:

Most control arms should be allowed to swivel up, and down, so the holding bolts should do just that, hold the control arms, if the garage did the bolts up with the Milwaukee gun, so tight that they are clamped, then the bushes will probably need replacing inside a year.

No that’s incorrect in the case of these arms. 

The arms do not swivel on the inner bolt.

The subframe clamps the metallic inner part of the bush due to the torque applied by the bolt. 85Nm plus 180 degrees (RFT!)

When you take an arm out of the subframe you will see evidence of the clamping on the bush.  The rubber bush flexes which gives the movement. This is why it is essential that the arms subframe bush is tightened at ride height so the bush is not stressed. 

If you tighten the bolt at the wrong ride height, the bushes will then be stressed up at normal ride height and wear out very quickly as they are already stressed. 
 

When the car is sat on level ground there should be no stresses in the bushes. 
 

 

 

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If that is the case every time the front wheels move up or down the control arm bush will be subject to torsional forces, when I assumed the bushes were there to absorb fore and aft forces. Andrew 

Edited by Steve VH
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Both 

Torsional from every bump and fore/aft movements.

The bushes are designed to be relatively weak in torsion so can flex torsionally relatively easily but not by pivoting around  the bolt. 

The arrangement of the lower arms is almost triangular in plan thus this alone is a very stiff shape for resisting the fore/aft movements. This puts lateral loads in the bushes which is why when they are worn and you brake, you feel them shudder.
 

It’s also why these big barges go round bends so well. And why they need bushes replacing every 70k miles or so. It’s the trade off. 
 

Think of a budget car from the 1990s they had pressed steel lower front arms that were ‘L’ shaped. They were crap at cornering as the leg of the L could move as it wasn’t braced with anything. 

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