Kopfjaeger Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 (edited) @Steve84NThanks. I'm not planning on coding S459 atm. My review of technical info to date indicates it might not be required. All the relevant info is stored in the seat modules. The door card memory switches communicate to the module via LIN bus to FRM and then Canbus to JBE and back to the seat module. I'm guessing, I'll end up with 'two driver's seats? As each switch is linked to a different seat module. I'm guessing each memory switch and seat modules have different memory addresses, so provided I can get them connected to the LIN bus and Canbus....it should work. Reading the wiring diagrams is a pain, we'll for me anyway. At some point I will ping the drivers side connections (battery disconnected of course) and check the modules. If my passenger module is different to the drivers side, then it might be 'dumb' and I need another module that has the memory facilities.....in which case coding might be necessary, but as the car is coded for 456 it shouldn't need an update? I'll see where it gets to. Its only cost about £30 so far, for the switch. Wiring costs won't be high. Biggest outlay will be the different sear module, if required. It's a labour of 'love' and something that interests me...... If it works, electrically, the biggest issue will be cutting the door card cleanly.... Making a template to mark out the opening will be fiddly (I plan on using drivers door as source and mirroring it). But it's the choice of cutting tool. I'm thinking a linear blade as opposed, to rotary, e.g. dremel.... It might even be worth buying an old door card to practice on..... Worth it, as a new door card is £1100 and it won't match the existing interior, unless I get it aged 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Edited February 22 by Kopfjaeger Images removed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 For cutting the door hole there's some forgiveness as the bevel of the switch trim is a few mm wide so it will cover up the cut line. The biggest mistake you could make is cutting it too large so the switch doesn't stay securely in place. If you can find a cheap door card to practice on it'd be worth it to try different tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kopfjaeger Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 (edited) @Steve84N Thanks..my thoughts too. Well the switch has arrived and looks great. I've identified the connectors on the looms. They're the 4 terminal, 3 pin connectors. The drivers side is blue, passenger side is white. The switch connectors are handed. So as I have LHD switch, it will only fit the drivers door connector, not the passenger side. This isn't an issue, as I have both looms. Before doing anything drastic, I've checked if the terminations on the connectors to the door plug are the same. They are. The 3 wires are Positive voltage and Ground and a LIN bus line. I've also confirmed that the memory switch and mirror are the only LIN bus users in the door wiring loom. I've also ascertained that the positive and ground are commoned up with other connectors that have positive and ground (🙄, you can see I'm not an electrician. So this means I'm not running, new wires, I have to piggy back on what is already installed. In simple terms, for me anyway, is I need to 'graft' my donor S23*1B connector and 3 associated wires to the same wires in my door loom. The grafting of the wires will be challenging for me. The good news is I don't need to add a LIN bus connection to the FRM from the door card. The next part of the puzzle, is to look at the wiring between the seat modules and the JBE module. The Saga continues🤣🤣🤣🤣 Edited February 22 by Kopfjaeger Images added Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kopfjaeger Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 It's too cold outside today to be stripping door cards so I've stripped the new door card memory switch instead. There is a lot more electronics on the PCB than I was expecting. But it makes sense, as it can't just be voltage that goes down the LIN bus line.... I may also have struck lucky, with a colleague at my new job. He's into Cars, too but more electrically skilled than me.😁 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 @Kopfjaeger today I was swapping in a better condition Silverstone door card on the passenger side and it didn't have the memory switch like the other one so I had to make the hole. I made a paper template by pressing it against the hole, then trimming until it fitted inside the hole. There's no easy way to mark the door card accurately so I simply held the template in place and cut around it with a scalpel. There's probably a better way but it worked. The top layer is easy to cut through but hard to see where you've done as it sort of seals back up. The fibrous material behind is hard, I snapped one blade in thr process. The end result isn't perfect, I needed to be more patient for a tighter fit but the switch went in first go. The spring tabs are all just about engaged and there's nothing visible on the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kopfjaeger Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 Nicely done...Thanks for the heads up. I'll spend my time carefully cutting the door card when I get to that stage. I tried removing the front cover to the drivers seat today, to expose the seat modules but wasn't successful. It was cold, so I didn't want to use much force in case the clips break. I think the offside lower seat panel has to be disengaged, before or with the front panel.... Next weekend perhaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kopfjaeger Posted June 2 Author Share Posted June 2 So the weather has improved, and I've got the plastic trim off the seat frames to investigate further. The drivers side seat has a single '8 plug' module and the passenger seat has a smaller '3 plug' module. I was expecting the drivers side to have the smaller 3 plug module too, as this is for the electric heating. Clearly, one module can serve two seats. The seat module carrier in my F07N doesn't resemble that in the online manual I refer to, so I wasnt able to see which module the driver seat uses. This job would be far easier, if I took the seats out, but I don't want to go there yet. So I know I need an 8 plug seat module, as this is where all the positions for the various drives and sensors are stored. Plus, I'll need a new wiring loom between the seat position switch cluster, the new seat module. I didn't think to make a note of the drivers wiring loom, as I was rummaging under the seats, so that is a task for next time. RealOEM doesn't seem to offer a loom with 6 connectors (Although the module has 8 connectors, 2 arent used unless you have active ventilation / massage functionality) to run between the seat module and the seat position switch, but I might have missed it. So the obvious way forward, simplistically, is a new seat module, identical to the existing drivers side, plus an identical wiring loom between seat module and seat position switch. Some of the pin assignments will need changing ( this is how the modules differentiate between driver and passenger, since there isn't a driver or passenger specific module). Depending on what seat module I need, new ones cost between £177 and £277 new. Second hand they can vary between between £50-£150. I haven't yet seen any seat modules of the types I'm interested in from 2016 onwards. Most are between 2009 and 2012. So the new route looks most likely. Until I find out the wiring loom reference, I won't know what the likely cost for that is either. So progress is still slow on this🙄🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kopfjaeger Posted July 16 Author Share Posted July 16 So, I did a mad thing and bought a secondhand comfort car seat from an F01, with a view to stripping the wiring from the seat to use in my car.... Mid strip So it took a while... Got the air bag out.... And ended up with a boot full of bits This is what was left, after I finished I didnt need to take it down the local tip, as someone relieved me of it without asking.🙄 So I found it a useful exercise, stripping the seat; I've got a load of seat motors, wiring looms, lordosis mat, pump etc. That might be useful. Plus a seat module and multi-function switch. The hoped for wiring loom might be useful, but I won't be sure, until I strip the loom to see how the wiring from the seat module relates to the individual motors. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve84N Posted July 16 Share Posted July 16 Well done for persevering with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kopfjaeger Posted August 24 Author Share Posted August 24 Whilst picking up some bits from my dealer this morning, I got some prices for the seat module and a worst case wiring loom. The seat module is £156.04 +VAT (61359459673), so about the same as WOX, but cheaper than Ebay for modules less than 5 years old. The only wiring loom is the full seat one 61112158680, which is £235.78+VAT. That is more painful and may require the seat partially stripped to replace the existing wiring loom. I'll have to revisit my donor seat strip down to see. I've looked online for that loom reference, but nothing comes up at the moment. I'm not going to use the loom from the F01 seat that I bought as an experiment, as it's too old. So still a slow burn atm.😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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