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DPF-FORCING REGEN?


numero9

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Finally got round to fixings a rear in the boost hose, cleared the code and now one for the DPF has flashed up on ISTA as well as on the dash.

I tried previously to force regen, coolant temp & exhaust temp all above required but I assume the dodgy boost hose fault kept it from happening. I get through the page on ISTA and it says regen requested but not active.

Is there anything else which might stop this from happening? I've just filled up fuel and plan to go for a longer drive to try force it.

Is there anyway for clean it out or force the regen another way?

Is it easier to just rip it out and code it out? I'd rather not as I like to keep it as stock as possible 

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How have you driven for it to do a regen? It'll not do one sat idling, or bumbling along at 30 in stop/start traffic. Go sit on the motorway for 20 minutes and it'll get through a cycle. It does not start a regen until the driving conditions are right. 

 

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Yes I have a code on the DDE for the DPF pressure, I clear but it comes back so unsure how I'm supposed to force the regen when the code is active but the code is there because it needs a regen.

 

Thinking if there is anything I can put down it to help stop the code temporarily enough to get the regen going 

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Try driving with laptop around and keep clearing that fault, at one point it should start regen. Another option I have heard is people trick ECU to start regen with using little bit split hose for exhaust pressure sensor. This way they reduce dpf backpressure measured, after that you need to fit good hose back on. 

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I have a friend who has a Delphi system who said he can try to do a static regen first to help clear some of the junk before doing a driving regen.

It all gets up to temp and I have no other errors aside from a fogging sensor and something for climate control so I can see any other reason for it not to regen.

Plan is to get it hot, pull over, clear codes, and try to force the regen. Will need a driver to force it.

Another thing I noticed on the last oil change is that it was very runny like it had some fuel in so I wonder if it has tried to regen before and failed and dumped the fuel in the oil?

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1 hour ago, numero9 said:

I have a friend who has a Delphi system who said he can try to do a static regen first to help clear some of the junk before doing a driving regen.

It all gets up to temp and I have no other errors aside from a fogging sensor and something for climate control so I can see any other reason for it not to regen.

Plan is to get it hot, pull over, clear codes, and try to force the regen. Will need a driver to force it.

Another thing I noticed on the last oil change is that it was very runny like it had some fuel in so I wonder if it has tried to regen before and failed and dumped the fuel in the oil?

That's the problem with nearly clogged DPFs, sometimes ECU trying to start regen every time car has reached temperature, so basically you get regen every day, which is getting your oil diluted with diesel. Just had this issue with my workmate's Audi, 200 miles after oil service it was showing warning of too high oil level, and indeed it's was when checking on dipstick, plus noticeably stinking of diesel being nearly fresh oil.  He just get DPF emptied, mapped out and happily driving now. 

Try to get running forced regeneration, but obviously keep an eye on it even if it does, because if exhaust backpressure remaining quite high, ECU will try to carry out regeneration one after another later on, which isn't good for engine oil.

Another option is to remove and professionally backflush DPF, there are places that does it in UK. One in east Yorkshire is called "DPF repair", not sure if they have multiple branches across the country, but must be quite a few offering this service.

Edited by Ray112
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5 hours ago, numero9 said:

Yes I have a code on the DDE for the DPF pressure, I clear but it comes back so unsure how I'm supposed to force the regen when the code is active but the code is there because it needs a regen.

 

Thinking if there is anything I can put down it to help stop the code temporarily enough to get the regen going 

 

Like Ray suggested. Activate the regen request. Go for a drive going first 40-60 mph as steady foot as possible and keep clearing trouble codes. The regen should start at some point. So far i've not encountered any failure on this but sometimes it can take up to 30 mins to start the process. First the regen will be in short periods and you have to keep clearing any active codes. Eventually the fault frequency will be longer and the regen will stay active all the time.

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Luckily I have a large drum of oil so I'm going to try the drive to regen whilst clearing codes & if that doesn't work try Delphi forced regen. 

I'll do oil change straight after and see where that goes. I'm based in South so any dpf places anybody can recommend?

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I think I have a USB-OTG cable, so I can try the bimmertool lite to see if it works and if so will download the full app.

Frustrating that ISTA doesn't have the ability to constantly clear codes as a checkbox when requesting a regen as the only code stopping is that it needs a regen!

Thanks for the help though Gonzo, as always much appreciated!

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Downloaded the full bimmer-tool and got it working.

No fault codes aside from the dpf but now i-drive is showing high oil level, would this impact regen ability?

Soot mass-57g (99%)

Ash mass-36g

Regen requested okay but the regen active kept dropping in and out continuously. Took an hour to get the soot down to 0% but after that it climbed right back up to 13% and kept going as I drove back home. Absolutely zero affect on the ash mass which is frustrating, is this normal? Or will it eventually do the ash once it sorts the regen out or do I need to spray anything down to help?

Back pressure has definitely dropped after the run, plan next is to fill up and try again but unsure if that will help, any more advice?

Back pressure (hPA)

Pre-RPM Pre-Regen Post-RPM Post-Regen
680 41 678 15
1858 188 1810 59
2745 274 2782 122
3604 454 3760 182
Edited by numero9
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The soot mass is just a calculated value with no real relevance on actual situation. If the back pressure is normal things are good and there shouldn't any trouble codes unless we are talking about he DPF aging code which can be resolved by telling DDE the DPF has been renewed.

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2 minutes ago, numero9 said:

Any chemicals you'd recommend? 

Easy enough to do with drive on ramps or will it need something proper?

You need to remove DPF filter and connect it to machinery which flushes it backwards. Not something you can do at home I'm afraid, apart from removing DPF and taking to place which does cleaning. They usually provide before and after flow check printouts etc. At home you can flush it backwards with pressure washer, but how effective it is I don't know. People have done it, some says it's fine, some having issues soon after. Of course it's important why dpf is clogged first place. A lot of times people don't replace failed thermostats and even professionally cleaned/new DPF will get clogged soon again.  

And like mentioned above, it's just very rough estimate about ash and soot levels, there are no sensors telling this. It's all calculated from back pressure, mileage etc. 

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Understood, any place in the south (around oxfordshire) that people can recommend? Given other things I'd be happy for somewhere to do the removal, clean and refitting as I just don't have time to do it all right now.

What kind of price would something like this be?

I cannot quite understand why it has clogged, its 150k I have done a lot of urban driving with less long journeys so that is a key factor, no other error codes and all temps seem to be reading fine. I haven't checked the injectors but unsure what I'd be looking for? Anything else to look for?

How would I check if the any of the pressure sensors are failing and causing excess readings?

Edited by numero9
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3 hours ago, numero9 said:

Understood, any place in the south (around oxfordshire) that people can recommend? Given other things I'd be happy for somewhere to do the removal, clean and refitting as I just don't have time to do it all right now.

What kind of price would something like this be?

I cannot quite understand why it has clogged, its 150k I have done a lot of urban driving with less long journeys so that is a key factor, no other error codes and all temps seem to be reading fine. I haven't checked the injectors but unsure what I'd be looking for? Anything else to look for?

How would I check if the any of the pressure sensors are failing and causing excess readings?

On Bimmertool use the actual values and expected values. That'll give you an idea of if you are seeing what the car is expecting - easy enough to see if it's massively out of kilter. 

A bad throttle valve can prevent/stop a regen happening. They are known to fail as oil gets into the mechanism/electrics. When i first picked up my car it was not doing a DPF regen and there was a code for it (as it was so bad). When i opened it up was full of oil. I replaced it and it was all good from there in terms of DPF regen and performance. 

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I have just removed my DPF from scrapped 265,000 mile 520D. 
It looked really good and is in my spares now.

I always checked it regened when I remembered but it never had any work done to it. Back pressure would be good to check as you say.

I was expecting issues.  Tended to do long journeys not town traffic very often.

The inlet was sooty, the outlet was squeeky clean. 

I have just reset the DPF warning for changing on my 130k 520D.  I do not feel worried now.

Does your just need the warning resetting - I did not make a note of the code but found enough on forums to suggest it was just in need of a reset.

 I used bimmer tool to reset it.

 

Outlet

Outlet looking into DPF

 

 

outlet

Outlet exhaust pipe

 

Inlet

Inlet to DPF

inlet

Inlet exhaust pipe

Edited by LF-E61 52OD
extra bit about bimmertool regen.
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