E28 Diamantschwartz eta - Fuel System re-fresh

[Ordnator 2]

So, way back in May 2020, during COVID, I started a fuel system re-fresh on the Diamantschwartz eta.

Replaced the fuel rail , injectors and fuel pressure regulator with new old stock items:

August 2020 - Dropped the fuel tank, pump and filter and sent some parts out for blasting and powder coating:

September 2021 - Parts came back from the powder coaters looking quite sharp:

February 2022 - Rebuilt the fuel pump brackets with new old stock pump, filter, hoses, and fittings:

February 2023 - stripped out the Fuel Supply, Ventilation, Expansion Tank hoses which had been the source of a fuel vapor smell when the tank was fully filled.

Replaced the hose between the drain line tube and the expansion tank with new old stock hose and clamps:

Revived the Fuel filling chamber grommets with Auto Glyn Bumper & Trim Gel.  This is great for reviving rubber and plastic trim.  Grommets look great for 36 year old external fittings  

I will keep the new old stock items for the Zobelbraun eta fuel system refresh in due course:

Also revived the wheel arch hose grommets with Trim Gel:

And refitted them back into the internal wheel arch:

Which means I get to keep the new old stock grommets for the Zobelbraun eta.

So you may have gathered that I have not had any "E28 Seat Time" since COVID hit, guilty as charged.

Hoping to remedy that this year.

Best regards,

Mick

Edited February 20, 2023 by Ordnator 2

[Ordnator 2]

Update:

Received a new Expansion Tank 16.13.1.152.375

Which I connected to the external ventilation hose:

And installed the tank back onto the top of the right rear wheel arch:

Cut 3 new ventilation hoses from the Petrol Tank vent pipes to the expansion tank using the original hoses as templates:

Installed the 3 new vent hoses from the expansion tank, through the right rear wheel arch grommets in preparation for the fuel tank reinstallation:

 

Had to get in and out of the boot half a dozen times to achieve this, which doesn't sound like much of a challenge unless you are closer to your telegram than your Birth Certificate like I am 

Time for a stretch and a beer, not necessarily in that order.

Enjoy your weekend.

Best regards,

Mick

 

 

 

[Ordnator 2]

 

Update from today's efforts.

Cleaned up the original fuel sender unit and cleaned the mesh filter:

Cleaned up the corroded top and painted with some gold colored paint that I had lying around:

Used a new seal 16.11.1.744.369 :

And re-fitted the sender to the tank prior to re-installation of the tank.  Much easier to do this than from the inside of the boot 

Fitted 2 new rubber plugs item 5 (32.21.2.675.171):

to a new Protection Plate item 4 (16.11.1.177.253):

Fitted the Protection Plate to the tank with 3 new M6 bolts item 6 (07.11.9.905.524):

3 new Wave Washers item 7 (07.11.9.936.439):

and 3 new M6 nuts item 8 (07.11.9.905.543):

together with a powder coated original Bow item 3 (no longer available from BMW):

Which ended up looking like this:

Fitted the rebuilt Fuel Pump and Filter assembly using all new fixings together with new supply hose item 22 (16.12.1.176.440), Protective Hose item 23 (16.12.1.118.812), hose clip item 21 (07.12.9.952.107), new return hose item 14 (16.12.1.180.409, and hose clip item 15 (07.12.9.952.104:

This is so much easier to do when the fuel tank has been removed.

3 new rubber pads item 2 (16.11.1.108.667) for the top of the fuel tank ready to be fitted:

5 new m10 bolts item 10 (07.11.9.913.941) ready to fit the tank back onto the car:

together with a new rubber seal for the filler neck item 1 (16.11.1.119.235):

Ready to re-fit the tank next.

Best regards,

Mick

 

Edited March 19, 2023 by Ordnator 2

[Ordnator 2]

Update from this weekends efforts:

Fitted the three rubber pads (16.11.1.108.667) to the top of the fuel tank:

This 1987 Diamantschwartz eta has an additional fuel tank fitting bolt / clamp / bracket arrangement on the right rear corner of the fuel tank that the 1985 Zobelbraun eta lacks. Looks to be an upgrade to post 1985 builds:

Lifted up the tank and bolted into place with Five M10 x 30 bolts (07.11.9.913.941), and torqued down to 22ft lbs:

Threaded the new ventilation hoses (13.31.1.272.750) through the refurbished grommets (16.12.1.119.376) into the fuel filling area:

Fitted the new ventilation hoses onto the fuel tank ventilation pipes along with new hose clips (07.12.9.952.102):

Fitted a new old stock rubber cover (16.11.1.119.235) inside the fuel filling door:

Connected up the fuel supply hose (16.12.1.176.440), including new hose clamp (07.12.9.952.107), and the fuel return hose (16.12.1.180.409), including new hose clamp (07.12.9.952.104) to the in-tank sender unit:

Sender unit is reading 84 ohms with an empty tank.  Tolerance is 69.4 - 74 ohms.

Will try some contact cleaner on the 36 year old contacts and re-measure the resistance value to see if it will drop into tolerance.

I have a new old stock spare Sender Unit (16.12.1.153.507) standing by which measured 70 ohms when tested.

Time to move to the other end of the fuel system.

Best regards,

Mick

[JohnH]

Mick,

Those are interesting numbers.

I've just disassembled one I bought from a nice gentleman from Latvia

As you can see its a bit grubby!

Any way holding the sender vertically, just as it would be in the tank, I get a reading of 84 ohms for empty and 5.6 ohms for full. I did read somewhere that one was looking for a reading of 6 ohms per inch of wire so 84 would seem to be about right. Remember if your value of 70 ohms is for a US tank then that would be about right as the tank is a bit shallower for 63 litres.

[duncan-uk]

Looking good Mick - are they doing many miles over there?

[Ordnator 2]

12 hours ago, JohnH said:

Mick,

Those are interesting numbers.

I've just disassembled one I bought from a nice gentleman from Latvia

As you can see its a bit grubby!

Any way holding the sender vertically, just as it would be in the tank, I get a reading of 84 ohms for empty and 5.6 ohms for full. I did read somewhere that one was looking for a reading of 6 ohms per inch of wire so 84 would seem to be about right. Remember if your value of 70 ohms is for a US tank then that would be about right as the tank is a bit shallower for 63 litres.

Hi John,

Good to hear from you.  How is the 520i refurbishment progressing?

You make an interesting point about the smaller US petrol tank.

I rechecked my references just to be sure and found the following:

a.  UK Haynes manual values for 520i & 525e:

        Full tank 2.5 to 3.9 ohms

        Empty tank 69.4 to 74 ohms

This is for part number 16.12.1.153.507 which is what my UK eta has fitted.  My new sender unit is 70 ohms and my old item is 84 ohms, which could be higher resistance due to age related corrosion / wear.  I will find out where the petrol gauge sits when I hook up the electrical in due course and then fill the tank.

b.  US Bentley manual for 528e, 533 and 535:

        Full tank 2.5 to 3.9 ohms

        Empty tank 69.4 to 74 ohms

This appears to be for the combined in tank fuel pump and sender unit, which are different part numbers but same resistive value.  Maybe the US fuel gauges are calibrated differently so as to correctly indicate full, empty and the bit in between for 63 litre capacity US tanks?

In conclusion the only two absolute value would seem to be tank empty and tank full.  The bit in between these two values is an inexact science.  A bit like mercury thermometers between ice (0 degrees) and steam (100 degrees).

I did not disassemble my sender unit as you have, maybe I should have with hindsight, but it was reasonably clean straight out of the tank so I did not think it warranted further investigation.  It wasn't broken so I didn't fix it.

Interesting that both our euro sender units ohm out at 84 ohms empty.

Do you think contact cleaner on the sensor unit and wire would make any difference.

What about hooking up the sender to the fuel gauge and function testing the float switch in a bucket of water?

I will report back when I get to the hook up and fuel up stage of my fuel system re-fresh.

Best regards,

Mick

 

[Ordnator 2]

3 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

Looking good Mick - are they doing many miles over there?

Hi Duncan,

Good to hear from you.

The Zobelbraun eta has been on stands since 2018 and not yet registered in Nova Scotia  Coming towards the end of a chrome to shadow line trim swap, having exchanged clear glass for sun dim green, along with sound proofing the door interiors.  The intention is to get this inspected, registered and driving this year.

Completed a 4,000 mile two week road trip from Halifax NS, via Yarmouth, ferry to Portland Maine, through up state New York to Kingston ON, on to Barry to stay with family.  Took a trip down to Mississauga On for Tedfest 2019.  Toured around to Lake Kinesis, by Halliburton On to visit more family before retuning back to Halifax via Kingston, Portland Maine, Yarmouth NS.  The Diamantschwartz eta performed without fault and drew a lot of attention, especially being a right hooker with a front UK license plate.

The Diamantschwartz eta went up on stands for the fuel system re-fresh over winter in 2019-2020, then COVID turned up.  Stayed up on stands and the re-fresh slowed down due to COVID supply challenges, segregation needs and a total lack of anywhere to drive an E28 too until this spring, so hence the resurgent attention now being lavished.

In summary, zero E28 seat time since the autumn of 2019 

Please do not revoke my membership, I am still an E28 addict 

Best regards,

Mick

 

Edited March 28, 2023 by Ordnator 2

[duncan-uk]

You are simply having a period of abstinence before a relapse 😂

[JohnH]

Mick, I've been doing a bit more fuel sender unit research.

I have seen several YouTubes of people fixing E30 and other VDO sender units and they seem to think the wiring should be 0.01mm diameter. Well I measured mine and it uses 0.008mm wire. If my maths is correct, that means that 0.01mm wire would have a cross sectional area that is 1.5625 times greater and therefore the resistance would be lower than the 0.008 wire.

I ohmed 6" of 0.008 wire and got a reading of 5.33 ohms per inch. I also tested 7" of 0.01 wire and got 3.4 ohms per inch. 

3.4 X 1.5625 = 5.3125.

On my unit the full reading was 6 ohms and the empty 84. The length of wire difference between them is 2 X 6.75" = 13.5".

So 78 ohms divided by 13.5 = 5.77 ohms per inch. Not far away from 5.3125.

So, I don't think there's anything wrong with my sender unit.

What would be very useful, would be if you were to measure the wire diameter in your 70 ohm unit.

What shape are your units? Round filter or with a foot like both of mine. 

I will test the unit that is in my car in a day or two, after I tax it and take it for a spin.

All the best

John. 

[Ordnator 2]

Hi John,

The new Sender unit I have (p/n 16.12.1.153.507) is identical to my original Sender Unit.

The new unit has a QC stamp dated 11 2021 so likely new manufacture, which is supported by the "MAKE" element on the stores label.  The stores label is dated 21st December 2021 and I received it in the new year 2022.

The unit is 8 1/2 inches from the underside of the tank flange to suction foot.

 

Here it is in a disassembled state:

Measured the two thin (silver colored) wires with a micrometer and achieved 0.08 mm or 0.0034". 

The float moves up and down the two thin wires and this arrangement indicates fuel level.

The current comes into the right hand plug pin, which is connected to the right hand insulated arm, down the thin wire, through the float and back up the other thin wire to the left hand arm, which is connected to the top flange which is intern connected back to ground via the center pin on the plug.  As the float moves up and down the resistive load changes which in term is reflected on the fuel gauge on the cluster.

The resistive length of this wire is 7" + 7" 

The current comes into the left hand pin on the plug, which is insulated from the upper flange, and connected to another insulated arm which in turn is connected to the thicker wire on the outside of the float. 

Measured the single thicker (gold colored) wire and achieved 0.31 mm or 0.012".

The thicker wire is connected to but insulated from the bottom of the sender unit central rod.  The under side of the float has a conducting plate that will short out and connect the current to the central rod which is in turn connected to the top flange which is in turn connected back to ground via the central pin on the sender unit plug.  This will make the circuit for the low fuel level lamp on the gauge cluster.

 

Tried to capture the three wires in the next picture.

The light is reflecting off of the wires about half way down the picture.

From left to right thick wire, thin wire, and thin wire:

The unit measured 3.3 ohms top of range (tank full) and 71.6 ohms bottom of range (tank empty).

My new unit is sitting just about in the middle of the range for the tolerances quoted in both the Haynes and Bentley manuals.

Full Tank:  2.5 ohm  3.3 ohm  3.9 ohm

Empty tank:  69.4 ohm  71.6 ohm  74 ohm

 

It is interesting that both our 1980's vintage sender units measure 84 ohm empty.

I have not measured mine full but would not be surprised if it is a similar value to yours at 5.6 ohm.

May well have been variations in values / sizes of component parts or just age related deterioration.

The fuel gauge in the cluster is more of an indicator rather than an accurate calibrated unit so I think the exact values from the Sender Units are not critical.  So long as they have the full and empty in the right order and there is an indication of the level dropping that is as good as it gets.

The tank is anything but a linear body with it's irregular shape and sloped sides.

I would estimate that 50% of the fuel by volume is contained in the top 1/3 of the tank, which most likely explains the gauge indicating full for a significant amount of mileage from a full tank, and then plummeting down to empty for the second half of the fuel volume.

Top tip, do not over tighten the 5.5 mm nut that goes on the bottom of the central rod, this holds the whole assembly together and stopped my float from moving and gave some strange resistive values 

Backed the nut off a couple of turns and the float is now free to move and back in tolerance for resistive values 

Enjoy the rest of your weekend.

Best regards,

Mick

Edited April 2, 2023 by Ordnator 2

[JohnH]

Mick I have been thinking about this, but I'm not sure what the answer is.

After I refitted the fuel tank recently, I put 10 litres of fuel in, and the gauge still showed as empty with the light on. I drove it the long way round to get an mot (which she passed), which may have jiggered the sender a bit, but it still showed empty with the light on. It was only after I put another 10 litres in that the light went off and the needle moved to just under the 1/4 full.

I'm using an October 86 instrument cluster, is it possible that the sender unit and gauge are incompatible. I'm not sure. All the parts manuals , both paper and online show the same sender unit part number. The only thing that changes is the early and late instrument cluster. 

Is it possible that VDO change the type of wire in the sender unit, but kept the wire diameter the same (0.08mm) to correct a long standing gauge problem.

[Ordnator 2]

Hi John,

I am content that the sender unit will provide a linear output, but the shape of the petrol tank is far from linear.  Does the gauge graduation on the cluster account for the non-linear nature of the tank, I am not sure.

What I am fairly certain of is the gauge stays around the top 1/3 for a couple of hundred miles then descends through the remaining 2/3 in less miles than the first 1/3 tank from full.  This to me is directly related to the tank shape.

I always fill up as soon as the low fuel light comes on if not before.

Best regards,

Mick

 

[Ordnator 2]

Used some DeoxIT on the fuel tank sender unit plug and socket today:

Then re-assembled the plug:

Re-fitted the rear anti-roll bar, which I had to remove to enable me to remove the fuel tank:

Torqued the M13 nuts & bolts to 22Nm.

I have an M5 19 mm rear anti-roll bar and rubber bushes which bolt up using the original securing clamps.

I had to lower the rear exhaust down to remove the fuel tank so jacked that back up and re-attached the three exhaust hanger rubbers:

I had a full stainless Steel Fritz's Bits system fitted about 9 years ago which cleaned up well with some stainless steel cleaner.

Just need to finish re-assembling the front half of the fuel system now.

Best regards,

Mick

Edited April 8, 2023 by Ordnator 2

[JustE28525i]

Great post Mick,

I'm at last getting around to recommissioning my 525i, which has been dry stored for about 10 years, is bodily sound, but I'm thinking will need a refresh of the brake and fuel systems to get it back through an MoT.

I'm looking at all the fuel hoses and thinking about E10 fuel, whilst I'm sure the BMW OE hoses would be fine, I'm wondering whether to go with the latest Gates "Barricade" hose?

All the hoses look to be 8mm bore, but I was a little misled by the supply and return OE hoses looking very different - the supply hose has bold orange writing "8x13 BMW", whereas the return is plain hose, having owned the car since 1994, I'm pretty sure neither has ever been replaced, but presume that both supply and return can use the same hose?

Like you, I have a Fritz's SS exhaust - and the matching tubular manifold - fitted about 12 years back, lovely sound.

Cheers

Justin

[Ordnator 2]

When the engine was last running the idle was hunting from a low 500 rpm up to 1200 rpm and the inlet manifold sounded asthmatic and was clearly sucking in un-metered air.

Removing the inlet manifold revealed a few issues and justified the removal decision.

Cylinder number 1 gasket was split across allowing un-metered air into the combustion chamber:

Cylinder number 6 gasket (11.61.1.730.012) was also split across in two places allowing even more un-metered air into the engine:

The crankcase vent tube (item 11 p/n 11.15.1.280.938) was missing the upper washer (item 10 p/n 11.15.1.280.937) and the upper O-ring (item 09 p/n 11.15.1.714.390) was deformed and not sealing correctly.

Fitted new O-ring and washers top and bottom.

Also fitted new inlet manifold gaskets:

Had the inlet manifold "tanked" to clean off all of the 34 years of accumulated oil, muck and grime:

Cleaned-off all of the mating surfaces and installed new gaskets, item 03 p/n 11.61.1.726.010 to cylinders 1,2,5 & 6.

Fitted gasket, item 04 p/n 11.61.1.717.286 to cylinders 3 and 4:

Used new wave washers item 13 p/n 07.11.9.904.115 x 12 as well as M8 hex headed nut with flange item 14 p/n 07.11.9.904.295 x 12.

Torqued up the inlet manifold securing nuts item 14 to 33 foot ponds.

Best regards,

Mick

 

 

 

 

 

[JohnH]

Hi Mick,

Interesting to see the way the gaskets failed. It seems to me that the manifold might be slightly distorted so that the outer ends are making contact before the center and as you tighten the nuts it forces the ends of the manifo;d outwards, ripping the gaskets. Failing that it may be that the outer nuts were tightened first and the inner ones last. Either way its an interesting thing.

Pleased to see you fitted new orings to the return pipe. Last year I had the head off mine and after I refitted it all, I discovered one of the orings on the floor under the car. Having wrestled with refitting it all I wasnt about to take it apart again. A good goop of some 3M product seems to have sealed it all up nicely! A very tacky refit.  

Regards

John.

Edited April 20 by JohnH

[Ordnator 2]

On 28/05/2023 at 19:25, JustE28525i said:

Great post Mick,

I'm at last getting around to recommissioning my 525i, which has been dry stored for about 10 years, is bodily sound, but I'm thinking will need a refresh of the brake and fuel systems to get it back through an MoT.

I'm looking at all the fuel hoses and thinking about E10 fuel, whilst I'm sure the BMW OE hoses would be fine, I'm wondering whether to go with the latest Gates "Barricade" hose?

All the hoses look to be 8mm bore, but I was a little misled by the supply and return OE hoses looking very different - the supply hose has bold orange writing "8x13 BMW", whereas the return is plain hose, having owned the car since 1994, I'm pretty sure neither has ever been replaced, but presume that both supply and return can use the same hose?

Like you, I have a Fritz's SS exhaust - and the matching tubular manifold - fitted about 12 years back, lovely sound.

Cheers

Justin

Hi Justin,

Just replaced the fuel supply hose (p/n 13.31.1.722.565)up to the fuel rail:

Fuel return hose (p/n 16.12.1.180.049) back from the fuel pressure regulator:

The vacuum hose (p/n 11.72.7.545.323) between the fuel pressure regulator and the inlet manifold:

and the cylinder head vent hose (p/n 11.15.1.708.801) between the rocker cover and the throttle body:

Best regards,

Mick

 

 

[JohnH]

Mick,

Couldnt help noticicing that you havent fitted the manifold support plate, which stops the manifold from vibrating. Is it possable that, that together with using 885 head inlet gaskets may account for them splltting.  

Regards

John.

Edited April 25 by JohnH

[Ordnator 2]

20 hours ago, JohnH said:

Mick,

Couldnt help noticicing that you havent fitted the manifold support plate, which stops the manifold from vibrating. Is it possable that, that together with using 885 head inlet gaskets may account for them splltting.  

Regards

John.

Hi John,

Thanks for the shout out, I appreciate you covering my 6 

The photograph was taken while replacing the fuel lines, cylinder head vent hose, engine loom and fuel regulator vacuum line prior to replacing the manifold support plate.

This is how it looks now:

The plate was always in place before removing the inlet manifold and is now back on completion of the re-installation.

This forum rocks 

Thank you John.

Best regards,

Mick

Edited April 26 by Ordnator 2

[Ordnator 2]

As part of the timing belt change I took the opportunity to replace the alternator & water pump belt together with the power steering pump belt.

While I was in there I had the water pump, crank shaft and power steering pump pulleys sand blasted and powder coated satin black:

Refitted the water pump pulley with 4 x wave washer item 03 (p/n 07.11.9.932.073) and 4 x M6 hex bolts item 05 (p/n 07.11.9.904.633):

Replaced the 4 x wave washers item 03 (p/n 07.11.9.932.073) and 4 x M6 fillister-head screws item 04 (07.12.9.905.536) securing the Red Fan item 01 to the Fan coupling item 02:

Refitted the crankshaft pulley item 02 using 5 x wave washers item 03 (p/n 07.11.9.904.115) and 5 x M8 hex bolts item 04 (p/n 07.11.9.913.612).

Should have used 6 items of each but discovered one screw had been snapped off previously and had an easy out snapped-off in the bolt stub.  Will have to address this when the engine is next out of the car and I have sufficient access for using the appropriate tools.  Job added to the "engine-out" work package.

Replaced the water pump & alternator fan belt item 12 (p/n 11.51.1.711.091) which has a cure / manufacture date of 21st June 2023:

Ordered what I thought was a superseded alternator adjusting bar item 08 (p/n 12.31.1.127.833 only to discover it was for a larger 80 Amp alternator.

My existing alternator adjusting bar item 08 (p/n 12.31.1273.360) is for a smaller alternator and is discontinued (ended).

Spot the difference:

cleaned up the original which still has all of its teeth ( unlike me  ) and refitted with a new M8 x 50 saucer-head screw item 10 (p/n 12.31.1.276.540), idler item 09 (p/n 12.31.7.677.914) and M8 self-locking nut item 07 (p/n 07.12.9.906.196).  The other end of the adjusting bar was secured to the engine timing cover stud using a new B8 wave washer item 12 (p/n 07.11.9.904.115) and a new B8 self-locking hex nut item 11 (p/n 07.12.9.906.196).

Used the re-furbished alternator adjustment bar to establish the correct tension for this belt.

re-fitted the power steering pump pulley using 3 x wave washers item 04 (p/n 07.11.9.904.115) and 3 x M8 hex bolt with washer item 05 (p/n 07.11.9.913.011):

fitted a new power steering pump adjusting bar item 12 (p/n 32.41.1.285.927), with a new M8 x 30 saucer-head screw item 13 (p/n 12.31.1.276.516), with a new idler item 14 (p/n 12.31.7.677.914), M8 wave washer item 3 (p/n 07.11.9.904.115) and an M8 self-locking hex nut item 15 (p/n 07.12.9.906.196).

Fitted a new power steering pump drive belt item 6 (p/n 32.42.1.706.597) with a cure / manufacture date of 18th July 2023 and tensioed the belt using the re-furbished adjusting bar:

The radiator drain plug was brittle and fractured so replaced with a new item (p/n 17.11.1.719.386:

Re-filled the coolant system with BMW blue coolant (contains anti-corrosive properties which are essential for protecting the collection of dis-similar metals that make up the E28 cooling system.

Successfully bled the coolant system.

Test fired the engine which took two long cranks to fire and subsequently settled to a smooth but low idle of 500 rpm in park.

Adjusted the throttle stop to bring the idle up to 750 rpm then re-set the throttle butterfly switch to the closed position at idle in conjunction with balancing this against the Air Flow Meter mixture screw adjusted to lean out the idle until smooth running achieved (not shaking the car body / not an urgent idle / not a fuel over rich aroma) (the sweet spot).

The re-sealed inlet manifold has cured the erratic idle / stalling out issue and it no longer sucks in un-metered air like an asthmatic pensioner 

Took the Diamantschwartz eta out for a 10k test drive which was sweet 

The car fit like a comfortable pair of shoes.

valves / rockers - one sounded a little noisy (tapping) so need to conduct a valve clearance check and adjust this weekend.

Best regards,

Mick

 

Edited April 26 by Ordnator 2

[duncan-uk]

12 hours ago, Ordnator 2 said:

Hi John,

Thanks for the shout out, I appreciate you covering my 6 

The photograph was taken while replacing the fuel lines, cylinder head vent hose, engine loom and fuel regulator vacuum line prior to replacing the manifold support plate.

This is how it looks now:

The plate was always in place before removing the inlet manifold and is now back on completion of the re-installation.

This forum rocks 

Thank you John.

Best regards,

Mick

Whats the light bar Mick? looks dewalt?

[Ordnator 2]

9 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

Whats the light bar Mick? looks dewalt?

Hi Duncan,

Yup its a DeWalt DCL045 12v/20v Max cordless Hood Light Type 1 

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiOgPS66uCFAxWvNAgFHVsRDa4YABAdGgJtZA&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAjwoa2xBhACEiwA1sb1BD2TpNQNhy1vKIqDUpzhKkFAw5siQn8bUBihpiOUWOW76ZN27NwuyBoC6V4QAvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.ca&cid=CAESVuD2QeLsh2HfQBgqot-hoDzBLiVC7rhy7vDIzpsx62BxBGBQ1UGLUabQJGRSyRQHSGuhUKB3_FAsEdx1GkS7Y7utU1gZXHuw7Ka_t85LuNfR-ctBH3qB&sig=AOD64_2UrGhQUCxZ8EMy-fC4nDM1Lrg7hQ&ctype=5&q=&nis=4&ved=2ahUKEwicu-y66uCFAxXPjokEHbodB14Q9aACKAB6BQgEELoB&adurl=

Folds up for compact storage:

 

Opens out for use and the ends are telescopic to fit the size of bonnet as well as rotating so that the direction of light can be adjusted to suit your needs:

 

Uses the 20v Max lithium Ion battery system.

Sharp piece of kit that is easy to use.

Recommend it without reservation.

Best regards,

Mick

Edited April 26 by Ordnator 2