00by Posted December 8, 2022 Share Posted December 8, 2022 (edited) Hi, Having some problems with my 2010 F07 530d GT. Pulling into my drive last night after around a 50mile trip I noticed a strange tapping/knocking noise in time with the revs of the engine. I shut it off and came back to it this morning. Firstly I checked ISTA for codes and had the following: 241000 - Smooth-running regulator: correction quantity too high 24AE00 - Smooth-running regulator: correction quantity of several cylinders outside permissi... 24B300 - Smooth-running regulator, cylinder 2: correction quantity too high Here's a couple of videos - the first is with a fully cold engine, I'd removed the air filter etc but I don't think it sounded too bad at this point, certainly not as bad as the evening before: The second video is after a short 3mile drive, the car seemed fine (probably still a slight noise but much reduced) for about a mile but then the noise started to become apparent again. You can see that the engine seems to be moving around a fair bit (engine mounts were done about 10k ago as well). It also made a fairly loud squeaking/screeching noise as I reversed (similar to a belt slipping, maybe?) but I couldn't get this on camera. The drive belt was replaced earlier this year. I'd cleared the codes in the morning, but the same ones returned after the short drive. Would anyone care to comment on what this could be? The fault codes lead me towards injector(s), but I wanted to throw it out to the community to hear some ideas! Thanks very much Edited May 15, 2023 by 00by Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00by Posted December 9, 2022 Author Share Posted December 9, 2022 (edited) Update - ran a smooth-running control test on the injectors. At idle all injectors stay within the green tolerance range, but as soon as light load is applied (quick drive down the road) then firing order 5 (cylinder 2) goes out of tolerance, and hit as high as 11.9. Video attached if anyone is interested. So, I guess this means the injector on cylinder 2 is faulty? What should my next option be, do I buy a new (or used?) injector and replace injector 2? Or do I try getting all injectors cleaned out first? Or should I get them all cleaned any replace injector 2? Thanks! Edited May 15, 2023 by 00by Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenfingers Posted December 9, 2022 Share Posted December 9, 2022 Judging by your videos, it seems fine when cold and then #2 cylinder drops out after warming up, so I suspect you're right thinking it's an injector (mechanical) problem, rather than control (electrical). I'm no expert, but surely it's unlikely that one out of six injectors is worn - more probable the fault is a blockage or bleed back. The first thing I would try is a dose of Redex injector cleaner. If that doesn't work, then one used injector won't break the bank and should be an easy DIY - especially if you have ISTA and could calibrate it yourself. I removed all 6 of mine recently after 130k miles without needing a slide hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Percha Posted December 9, 2022 Share Posted December 9, 2022 (edited) If it was me I would get no2 Injector removed and re-conditioned and then put back in. Edited December 9, 2022 by Percha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00by Posted December 10, 2022 Author Share Posted December 10, 2022 (edited) Thanks both - I think I will try a re-conditioned injector alongside some injector cleaner for the rest and see how I get on. Edited May 15, 2023 by 00by Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Percha Posted December 10, 2022 Share Posted December 10, 2022 Well the reading from ISTA will be direct reading from the injector solenoid so that is defenitly an issue, start there and see how it runs after getting that injector sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00by Posted December 10, 2022 Author Share Posted December 10, 2022 Makes sense. I'm actually tempted to swap the injectors from cylinder 1 and 2 and see if the problem moves cylinders... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00by Posted December 11, 2022 Author Share Posted December 11, 2022 Tried (and failed!) to get the injector on cylinder 2 out today. It's really stuck in there... Made a DIY mini slide hammer and it doesn't have enough oomph it seems...any tips for another try tomorrow? I then tried the injector on cylinder 1 to see if that was any easier and it came out with a couple of light slide hammer taps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HandyAndy Posted December 11, 2022 Share Posted December 11, 2022 Only possibly relevant advice iwas given for removing injectors (albeit on an N53) was not to try on a stone cold engine. Run it a few minutes beforehand so you can feel some warmth on the block with your hand. Should provide enough expansion so it's not rock solid, but still cool enough to work on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HandyAndy Posted December 11, 2022 Share Posted December 11, 2022 Just now, HandyAndy said: Only possibly relevant advice I was given for removing injectors (albeit on an N53) was not to try on a stone cold engine. Run it a few minutes beforehand so you can feel some warmth on the block with your hand. Should provide enough expansion so it's not rock solid, but still cool enough to work on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenfingers Posted December 11, 2022 Share Posted December 11, 2022 On 10/12/2022 at 17:03, 00by said: I'm actually tempted to swap the injectors from cylinder 1 and 2 and see if the problem moves cylinders... Being a tightarse, that would be my next diagnostic test too. It doesn't sound like you have a leaking injector seal, which would also be evidenced by black death deposits, so my bet is a clogged injector. A good dose of WD40 or Plusgas left for a day or so might help. If tapping the injector doesn't loosen it, try turning instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00by Posted December 12, 2022 Author Share Posted December 12, 2022 (edited) Still can’t get number 2 out. Photo shows number 1. Going to have to upgrade my equipment or get a mobile guy round I think! Edited May 15, 2023 by 00by Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stringbag Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 Don’t forget to replace those seals! Both the copper one and the o ring at the top. And label them - it’s important to put them back in where they came from or you’ll have to mess about with ISTA reprogramming them all. Each one has a code printed on it that needs to be set in the ECM. There is a procedure to reset the smooth running adaptions once you’ve had them out and cleaned them up. Mine came out eventually with a sliding hammer. Got a set cheap set from Amazon which made the job really easy. What is your manifold like? Mine was disgusting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00by Posted December 13, 2022 Author Share Posted December 13, 2022 (edited) On 12/12/2022 at 22:12, Stringbag said: Don’t forget to replace those seals! Both the copper one and the o ring at the top. And label them - it’s important to put them back in where they came from or you’ll have to mess about with ISTA reprogramming them all. Each one has a code printed on it that needs to be set in the ECM. There is a procedure to reset the smooth running adaptions once you’ve had them out and cleaned them up. Mine came out eventually with a sliding hammer. Got a set cheap set from Amazon which made the job really easy. What is your manifold like? Mine was disgusting. Yes I will be - I've got the copper ones but still need to order the o-rings. Thanks, I understand about the codes and ISTA but didn't realise about the reset smooth adaptations feature. I've ordered a bigger slider hammer so will see how that goes! My intake manifold was pretty grim when I cleaned it earlier this year (@ 140k), although I've seen a lot worse...! Edited May 15, 2023 by 00by Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenfingers Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 It's just bad luck to have a stuck injector, although in your case I reckon you just need to overcome a bit of rust near the top, as opposed to the loads of carbon build up commonly seen on Mercedes diesels. I think it's worth flooding the recess around the top of the stuck one with penetrating oil and waiting at least a day or a couple of heat cycles before doing anything drastic like this! Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00by Posted December 13, 2022 Author Share Posted December 13, 2022 I saw that yesterday, to much amusement! 😄 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stringbag Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 Agree about the penetrating oil. the cold isn’t helping either! I do think that EGR isn’t really progress, but that’s for a different thread… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00by Posted February 1, 2023 Author Share Posted February 1, 2023 (edited) . Edited May 15, 2023 by 00by 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Posted February 1, 2023 Share Posted February 1, 2023 @00by, 10 out of 10 for effort and for your initial diagnosis being sadly correct. I do hope the machine shop is able to do some magic for you and salvage the crank. Good luck! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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