Ray112 Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 4 hours ago, Tallman85 said: Wow, i sometimes wonder if the previous owners, including mine, did well to sell it after 10 years as things will start going wrong ....and when i see this, i get scared! Not too bad job to be honest, about 1.5 hours tops doing it first time and not rushing at all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 14 minutes ago, Ray112 said: Not too bad job to be honest, about 1.5 hours tops doing it first time and not rushing at all. That was quick … Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 1 hour ago, Humour said: Wow, that is something I may also be facing. Mine only goes so far up when pulled and beyond a certain amount it will release and go back to the bottom. The MOT guy also mentioned it on last test, suspecting missing teeth in the lever. Any chance of sharing a picture of your k ackered one to see what yoyr teeth look like? I can only imagine misuse by a previous owner as the car came to me with zero handbrake and could be pulled very high up without any resistance. I have got it working well enough to pass a MOT since, but the resistance is not as it should be and the lever does not hold at the very top. I imagine the centre console removal was the most difficult part of this task. It's so annoying to have to deal with so many previous Ogre's cockups damn it, but that's the price buying a used car I suppose. Mine was doing exactly the same. Sometimes slipped a teeth and just jumped all the way down, and lately just didn't stop where should but came down about half way. I'll take picture of old handbrake lever tomorrow, but I can say already all tooth were looking quite smooth. Replacement lever feels totally different, feels even lighter to pull up, so I won't be surprised if my old one was bent to side, as mentioned by Gonzo and it caused tooth wear off quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Changy Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 On 30/03/2024 at 23:30, Ray112 said: Handbrake lever replaced, because mine had probably about 1.5 teeth left at the bottom. 3 bolts, but surely it takes patience to get to them. I did the console removal about six weeks ago because I had to replace the handbrake cables. The copper connector on top of the mechanism is a real b@st@rd; I had so many cuts from it when pulling the cables in 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 40 minutes ago, Changy said: I did the console removal about six weeks ago because I had to replace the handbrake cables. The copper connector on top of the mechanism is a real b@st@rd; I had so many cuts from it when pulling the cables in Then you are the right person to ask. I was wondering are these handbrake cables a set size without adjustment options? I remember e39 handbrake cables had threaded part near lever so you can adjust them there as they stretch over years, e61 has welded ends, so I presume they are the same on other end as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted April 1 Author Share Posted April 1 On 31/03/2024 at 13:06, Tallman85 said: Good point Ray yes - probably this would be step two. Its so annoying the rattle…a new bmw exhaust must be expensive! So i had the middle mounting tighten by a tiewrap as suggested by gonzo and it did reduce the noise and rattle significantly…so i am suspecting the rubber mounts need changing. From experience should i go with febi? Or bmw? As it is like x5 the price! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 2 hours ago, Tallman85 said: So i had the middle mounting tighten by a tiewrap as suggested by gonzo and it did reduce the noise and rattle significantly…so i am suspecting the rubber mounts need changing. From experience should i go with febi? Or bmw? As it is like x5 the price! I would say cheapest ones, because I still can't see how can hanger cause internal rattle. If it some how does it's magic, surely febi will last few years at least. But if it changes nothing and you buy 5x more expensive oem parts, it would be just wasted money that can go towards replacement exhaust or repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted April 1 Author Share Posted April 1 33 minutes ago, Ray112 said: I would say cheapest ones, because I still can't see how can hanger cause internal rattle. If it some how does it's magic, surely febi will last few years at least. But if it changes nothing and you buy 5x more expensive oem parts, it would be just wasted money that can go towards replacement exhaust or repair. Very good point Ray. Or i can leave it as is until the tie wraps fail….it’s an option too thinking about it… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 (edited) Febi stands a good chance of being OE or identical to OE *edit, just compared and Febi is the correct material. Edited April 1 by Gonzo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted April 2 Author Share Posted April 2 7 hours ago, Gonzo said: Febi stands a good chance of being OE or identical to OE *edit, just compared and Febi is the correct material. Thanks Gonzo - much appreciated. I just realized that Febi does the back/muffler ones only. I cannot source the middle one [Dimond shape]....i think i have to end up buying it OE if i don't find a good brand one Just a question, are the back ones suppose to be very hard? or soft? as mine are very hard like - not sure if due to age or by design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 1 hour ago, Tallman85 said: Thanks Gonzo - much appreciated. I just realized that Febi does the back/muffler ones only. I cannot source the middle one [Dimond shape]....i think i have to end up buying it OE if i don't find a good brand one Just a question, are the back ones suppose to be very hard? or soft? as mine are very hard like - not sure if due to age or by design. I found all 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted April 2 Author Share Posted April 2 (edited) 1 hour ago, Gonzo said: I found all 3 What website is that gonzo? What is the difference between the red and black pls? is the red the one next to engine? According to the BMW diagram, mine takes both the black ones you show and a red one with bolts near the engine, but not the red one shown above. thx Edited April 2 by Tallman85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Changy Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 23 hours ago, Ray112 said: Then you are the right person to ask. I was wondering are these handbrake cables a set size without adjustment options? I remember e39 handbrake cables had threaded part near lever so you can adjust them there as they stretch over years, e61 has welded ends, so I presume they are the same on other end as well. The cables are fixed and you have to adjust via the wheels. Nearside and offside are slightly different to account for the mounting points. I had two push clips centrally on the tunnel and hooks near the wheels. I bought mine directly from BMW £82 for the pair. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 4 hours ago, Tallman85 said: What website is that gonzo? What is the difference between the red and black pls? is the red the one next to engine? According to the BMW diagram, mine takes both the black ones you show and a red one with bolts near the engine, but not the red one shown above. thx There are 4, 2 for the backbox, one on a hanger near the back box (black) and the red high temp soft rubber near the downpipe. #3 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/showparts?id=PX92-EUR-12-2009-E61N-BMW-535d&diagId=18_0633 #4 and 2 of #9 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/showparts?id=PX92-EUR-12-2009-E61N-BMW-535d&diagId=18_0634 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 2 hours ago, Changy said: The cables are fixed and you have to adjust via the wheels. Nearside and offside are slightly different to account for the mounting points. I had two push clips centrally on the tunnel and hooks near the wheels. I bought mine directly from BMW £82 for the pair. Oh what fun you had 🫣 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 4 hours ago, Tallman85 said: What website is that gonzo? What is the difference between the red and black pls? is the red the one next to engine? According to the BMW diagram, mine takes both the black ones you show and a red one with bolts near the engine, but not the red one shown above. thx Autodoc, aka the bible... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted April 2 Author Share Posted April 2 2 minutes ago, Gonzo said: Autodoc, aka the bible... Well, the bible does not ship to Malta 😡 .. they used to before! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 31 minutes ago, Tallman85 said: Well, the bible does not ship to Malta 😡 .. they used to before! I know mate, but lists part number for Febi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted April 2 Author Share Posted April 2 34 minutes ago, Gonzo said: I know mate, but lists part number for Febi i know it is a good source for part numbers 🙂 one think i need to check is the red mounting for the downpipe...as mine is swimming in oil and I am sure that oil does not do well to rubber [i think]. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 40 minutes ago, Tallman85 said: i know it is a good source for part numbers 🙂 one think i need to check is the red mounting for the downpipe...as mine is swimming in oil and I am sure that oil does not do well to rubber [i think]. It's MVQ Silicon rubber, be fine with an oil bath mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted April 2 Author Share Posted April 2 3 minutes ago, Gonzo said: It's MVQ Silicon rubber, be fine with an oil bath mate. good to know 🙂 thank you. best thing is to go electric...that would be quiet 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 21 hours ago, Tallman85 said: Very good point Ray. Or i can leave it as is until the tie wraps fail….it’s an option too thinking about it… Some biggest size tie wraps can handle hell of force, in some countries police use them instead of hand cuffs, so they must be strong. And being over rubber they won't get hot enough to melt. So your temporary fix might last quite long. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj123 Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 stainless steel/steel cable ties do exist for using on hot parts. I have some on the exhaust shields on my Motorbike, which are in direct contact with it - they're still on there and tight well over a year on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted April 2 Author Share Posted April 2 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ray112 said: Some biggest size tie wraps can handle hell of force, in some countries police use them instead of hand cuffs, so they must be strong. And being over rubber they won't get hot enough to melt. So your temporary fix might last quite long. 20 minutes ago, dj123 said: stainless steel/steel cable ties do exist for using on hot parts. I have some on the exhaust shields on my Motorbike, which are in direct contact with it - they're still on there and tight well over a year on. Thanks guys. Today i spent some time in traffic and although the rattle is gone, the idle sound still does not sound well. I dont know how to explain it, but it still sounds a bit deep sort off inside the cabin...and noiser that when the car is 1000rpm and above...i dont think it should be the case. So most probably i will remove the central tie wraps and try something at the back mountings... Sometimes i feel the e61 is not well insulated either...you can hear the engine and the surroundings more than you hear in an E class of the same age for example. I dont know if it is just me...i had a 190D with 2.5 diesel engine from 1991 and it was much quieter inside...really.... Edited April 2 by Tallman85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 Yesterday saw a couple of hours purging the DSC valve block for a second time. With the 535d relocating it as far as possible from the master you run into issues getting air out the main feed pipe due to the diameter, you can minimise issues by clamping the pedal down and due to me only swapping the DSC valve block this time I had hoped it wouldn't be such a PITA this time. Anyway, after running the special cases bleed routine last week followed by a standard purge I thought I was onto a winner but the pedal was still softer than before. A quick check yesterday by cracking the FL caliper while running the standard bleed saw air come out. So off I go with several litres of fluid and a combined 48 pumps of the pedal plus a few extra before and after. I expect closer to 80 pumps yesterday and 3 litres of fluid. Pedal is hard AF again now but I'll still do a standard purge in a few months to see if there were any microscopic bubbles that have clumped into visible ones. Was it worth it, well I was heading down the local bypass doing 50 (speed limits 50) then never got so excited to be stuck in traffic, dodgy cameraman, I blame the fact he is 9 and no, it was my choice of music... Car slowed down, my feet are not on the pedals, cruise still active and set to 50. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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