Tallman85 Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 (edited) 23 minutes ago, Humour said: What Ray said is also my guess. I have a similar resonance at idle now that I replaced the aftermarket Cat/Downpipe with a used OEM unit last Friday, but it's much more subtle and hardly noticable. In my case I had an annoying resonance between 1.8-2.2K rpm on light and medium throttle because the aftermarket CAT fitment wasn't good enough to attach the second bracing bracket to the engine when I fitted that in a hurry over a year ago now. It doesn't seem like much especially given where that bracket locates but it made an immediate difference once I fitted the OEM Cat and used both bracing brackets connecting it to the engine, but acquired the other resonance now because my DPF is half gutted (I core drilled into it with a 60mm core drill bit as it already had 3 smaller 15mm holes drilled by a previous). That's why I was asking about your DPF situation. maybe a silly question, but could this be caused by worn out engine mountings? creating vibrations along the exhaust? as soon as i touch the tips with my foot, the noise goes away immediately. From out side is less noticeable but from inside the cabin...it is terrible! and it seems it is coming from the back of the car, the back of the cabin and being a wagon it is open at the back too. If I tape it with ceramic tape like they do the manifolds, it should get quieter ? or it will be working hotter? I once did the manifold of a '71 fiat spider I used to have to reduce heat from the engine bay. I will redo a DPF test with ISTA to check the status but last time i checked it was well within the limits. Edited March 26 by Tallman85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 Maybe this is more clear…more noticeable inside rather than outside…. Bmw exhaust-[AudioTrimmer.com] 2.m4a Imagine stuck in traffic like this everyday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 4 hours ago, Tallman85 said: maybe a silly question, but could this be caused by worn out engine mountings? creating vibrations along the exhaust? as soon as i touch the tips with my foot, the noise goes away immediately. From out side is less noticeable but from inside the cabin...it is terrible! and it seems it is coming from the back of the car, the back of the cabin and being a wagon it is open at the back too. If I tape it with ceramic tape like they do the manifolds, it should get quieter ? or it will be working hotter? I once did the manifold of a '71 fiat spider I used to have to reduce heat from the engine bay. I will redo a DPF test with ISTA to check the status but last time i checked it was well within the limits. It's possible, but only one way to find out. My engine mounts were replaced when I bought the car and it did improve vibration at idle. Ohh I also bought mine from a BMW stealer because Autocrook messed me about and sent me alternatives I didn't order so I bit the bullet and opened my wallet at the dealer. It's hard to know in your case but in my case I have new mounts and I still get a lesser version at idle with a drilled through DPF box. As was suggested get the car on a ramp with the engine running and investigate the source, it could just be touching a heat shield of body due to a worn/weak exhaust hanger. No, an exhaust wrap won't magically stop a rattle u less it's placed between two surfaces that were touching and then it will, for a short while. That's not it's job and it's not the right tool for that job imo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Check all the exhaust mounts mate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 Ran more wiring through the car today, either wrapped in the cloth loom tape or ran in braided sleeving, in some cases, both! All following the factory path etc, I finally got the power to the boot fuse box and managed to test the radar modules were in ISTA. Next is swap the DSC control unit for the ACC version, I had hoped I wouldn't need to do this as they share the same software as a friends doing the exact same retrofit so we shared UIF screenshots. but, as soon as I coded my DSC to ACC it through a fault for 2 missing pressure sensors. I am now becoming religious and praying I only need to swap the module and not the DSC valve block, either way I have them and the kit to bleed if it comes to that. But it's pissing it down, so I packed up for the day. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 (edited) Car is together, front bumpers got to come off when I get the M sport short range radar brackets (don't ask) All coded and working but I need to calibrate the LRR when I can sort a jig. Edited March 30 by Gonzo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 57 minutes ago, Gonzo said: Car is together, front bumpers got to come off when I get the M sport short rage radar brackets (don't ask) All coded and working but I need to calibrate the LRR when I can sort a jig. If they remake the movie Brave Heart again.... you are definitely going to be the next Mel Gibson 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 On 26/03/2024 at 22:19, Gonzo said: Check all the exhaust mounts mate So today i spent some time to go under the car...to check the blessid exhaust rattle. So all the firewalls, heat shields are ok, no rattles and in place. The exhaust is shaking from the middle of the car to the tip. I asked a person to rotate the steering wheel to the lock as that will lower the idle and it will do it.... I mean the rubber holding the muffler at the back are very hard...while the rubber in the middle, diamond shape is very soft. I took a video to show you as well. I cannot find anything wrong...i dont know if changing the rubber will do it. Video - you can see the mufler shaking well. Ideas please? before i go and buy and electic car 😆 IMG_8958_ext.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 1 hour ago, Gonzo said: Car is together, front bumpers got to come off when I get the M sport short rage radar brackets (don't ask) All coded and working but I need to calibrate the LRR when I can sort a jig. GJ. I still think you drilled the hole wonky and are blaming BMW for it 😜 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 43 minutes ago, Humour said: GJ. I still think you drilled the hole wonky and are blaming BMW for it 😜 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 I know you are proud of your mars fingers…but can someone pls see my post of the exhaust?? 🤭 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 Handbrake lever replaced, because mine had probably about 1.5 teeth left at the bottom. 3 bolts, but surely it takes patience to get to them. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 14 hours ago, Tallman85 said: I know you are proud of your mars fingers…but can someone pls see my post of the exhaust?? 🤭 As much as you hope we can find this from a video, afraid it's gone a bit past that now, maybe a stethoscope on the mid resonator but it's probably something internal falling apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 25 minutes ago, Gonzo said: As much as you hope we can find this from a video, afraid it's gone a bit past that now, maybe a stethoscope on the mid resonator but it's probably something internal falling apart. Yes I understand. The vibration is causing the noise…the exhaust is shaking from middle part…. How to tell if rubber failed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 Stick a tie wrap around the rubber for support and as a test? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 2 minutes ago, Gonzo said: Stick a tie wrap around the rubber for support and as a test? Good point…probably it will snap with temperature but a good idea for a short run. I will report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 But even if it's vibrating more than should, it shouldn't rattle internally unless something is falling apart internally. Failing exhaust hangers could cause it touching somewhere externally, but if everything looks good, most likely it will rattle even with brand new hangers. On my 520d it's fairly simple to remove rear half of exhaust, so maybe it's worth removing it, and see if it rattle when you shake, at least you will know if it's internally making noise and from which part exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 15 minutes ago, Ray112 said: But even if it's vibrating more than should, it shouldn't rattle internally unless something is falling apart internally. Failing exhaust hangers could cause it touching somewhere externally, but if everything looks good, most likely it will rattle even with brand new hangers. On my 520d it's fairly simple to remove rear half of exhaust, so maybe it's worth removing it, and see if it rattle when you shake, at least you will know if it's internally making noise and from which part exactly. Good point Ray yes - probably this would be step two. Its so annoying the rattle…a new bmw exhaust must be expensive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 32 minutes ago, Tallman85 said: Good point Ray yes - probably this would be step two. Its so annoying the rattle…a new bmw exhaust must be expensive! If it's the resonator, you just delete it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 2 hours ago, Gonzo said: If it's the resonator, you just delete it. Ok, i just put two tie wraps around the diamond mounting in the middle and I reduced the rpm by -10 to get it back to standard. Tomorrow we shall see if it becomes worse or not since now it is more rigid.... will keep you updated. By Gonzo, i think without the resonator, it will be louder? [and probably faster 😁] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 14 hours ago, Ray112 said: Handbrake lever replaced, because mine had probably about 1.5 teeth left at the bottom. 3 bolts, but surely it takes patience to get to them. Wow, i sometimes wonder if the previous owners, including mine, did well to sell it after 10 years as things will start going wrong ....and when i see this, i get scared! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 (edited) On 30/03/2024 at 15:54, Tallman85 said: So today i spent some time to go under the car...to check the blessid exhaust rattle. So all the firewalls, heat shields are ok, no rattles and in place. The exhaust is shaking from the middle of the car to the tip. I asked a person to rotate the steering wheel to the lock as that will lower the idle and it will do it.... I mean the rubber holding the muffler at the back are very hard...while the rubber in the middle, diamond shape is very soft. I took a video to show you as well. I cannot find anything wrong...i dont know if changing the rubber will do it. Video - you can see the mufler shaking well. Ideas please? before i go and buy and electic car 😆 IMG_8958_ext.mp4 27.87 MB · 0 downloads It's not possible to diagnose from afar, as it looks not possible to diagnose being less than 1M away. It looks like in the video there is a cyclical number of events happening. I head a squeak or a whistle, then the exhaust shook, then it settled back to idle, then repeats that process. Does your engine idle smoothly, have you checked this with a tool to very idle rpm is stable? It's odd to have it behave cyclically like that on idle, a rattle should occur consistently at a steady state but in your video 3 different things are happening. Sorry I can't be if more help here. Edited March 31 by Humour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 (edited) 18 hours ago, Ray112 said: Handbrake lever replaced, because mine had probably about 1.5 teeth left at the bottom. 3 bolts, but surely it takes patience to get to them. Wow, that is something I may also be facing. Mine only goes so far up when pulled and beyond a certain amount it will release and go back to the bottom. The MOT guy also mentioned it on last test, suspecting missing teeth in the lever. Any chance of sharing a picture of your k ackered one to see what yoyr teeth look like? I can only imagine misuse by a previous owner as the car came to me with zero handbrake and could be pulled very high up without any resistance. I have got it working well enough to pass a MOT since, but the resistance is not as it should be and the lever does not hold at the very top. I imagine the centre console removal was the most difficult part of this task. It's so annoying to have to deal with so many previous Ogre's cockups damn it, but that's the price buying a used car I suppose. Edited March 31 by Humour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 4 minutes ago, Humour said: Wow, that is something I may also be facing. Mine only goes so far up when pulled and beyond a certain amount it will release and go back to the bottom. The MOT guy also mentioned it on last test, suspecting missing teeth in the lever. Any chance of sharing a picture of your k ackered one to see what yoyr teeth look like? I can only imagine misuse by a previous owner as the car came to me with zero handbrake and could be pulled very high up without any resistance. I have got it working well enough to pass a MOT since, but the resistance is not as it should be and the lever does not hold at the very top. I imagine the centre console removal was the most difficult part of this task. It's so annoying to have to deal with so many previous Ogre's cockups damn it, but that's the price buying a used car I suppose. It can also be due to it being bent if it doesn't latch at all past a point 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 19 minutes ago, Humour said: It's not possible to diagnose from afar, as it looks not possible to diagnose being less than 1M away. It looks like in the video there is a cyclical number of events happening. I head a squeak or a whistle, then the exhaust shook, then it settled back to idle, then repeats that process. Does your engine idle smoothly, have you checked this with a tool to very idle rpm is stable? It's odd to have it behave cyclically like that on idle, a rattle should occur consistently at a steady state but in your video 3 different things are happening. Sorry I can't be if more help here. Hi Humour, the cyclic effect is my wife turning the steering at lock as that slows down a bit the rpm and increases the rattle 😊 … it usually does it when slowing down to idle or at idle as you said and when warm. Today i put 2 tiewraps as suggested by gonzo to test the mushy middle mounting maybe its the cause. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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