Gonzo Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 14 hours ago, Tallman85 said: It was easy to replace the plugs on the m57 but i failed to reach the module with the manifold out 😞 is there a way to reach it from the bottom?? Er no, it's easy enough to get at tbh, watch a video or 2 on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 6 hours ago, Gonzo said: Er no, it's easy enough to get at tbh, watch a video or 2 on it. 😞 i removed the manifold but my big hands could not fit and i had no way to remove the connector damn it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 On 10/02/2024 at 16:43, Tallman85 said: 😞 i removed the manifold but my big hands could not fit and i had no way to remove the connector damn it. I've got mars bar fingers, it's not easy until you figure out a path through 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 Having to have a puncture repaired this afternoon, which is weird in some respects..... read on a bit. Got home from work ok on Thursday evening, WFH on Friday but went out on Friday evening to fetch the kids from my parent's place. Got about 100 yards and could hear a strange noise coming from the back of the car - rear nearside tyre was almost completely flat! Gingerly drove it back home and left it there. Couldn't find any obvious punctures so took the wheel off the car and found a screw through the centre of the tread, hopefully repairable. So, the weird thing - I find that the RPA is quite sensitive - quite often it warns me of a puncture when all that has really happened is that one of the tyres has lost a few PSI. I usually make sure pressures are correct and then reset RPA. But, with a completely flat tyre RPA tells me nothing, it lets me drive away with a completely flat tyre. Useless! Thankfully, it should hold enough pressure to get me to the tyre shop without major incident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 Puncture repaired but fitter reckons tyre is FUBAR because it's obviously been run on for a short time while flat, the rubber inside has come off in a nice pile of dust and in places is down to the carcass. He's plugged the hole but reckons if I intend to do any mileage then it needs sorting within the next week. FARK! Fronts are very close to needing replacement so that's three out of the four that need replacing, may as well just do all four! 😕 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 9 hours ago, Gonzo said: I've got mars bar fingers, it's not easy until you figure out a path through I know but it was dark in the garage, my back was killing me bended, sharp edges cutting me everywhere… and I gave up. 3 out of 6 not working. What’s the impact? Its warm weather here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 9 hours ago, Jens said: Having to have a puncture repaired this afternoon, which is weird in some respects..... read on a bit. Got home from work ok on Thursday evening, WFH on Friday but went out on Friday evening to fetch the kids from my parent's place. Got about 100 yards and could hear a strange noise coming from the back of the car - rear nearside tyre was almost completely flat! Gingerly drove it back home and left it there. Couldn't find any obvious punctures so took the wheel off the car and found a screw through the centre of the tread, hopefully repairable. So, the weird thing - I find that the RPA is quite sensitive - quite often it warns me of a puncture when all that has really happened is that one of the tyres has lost a few PSI. I usually make sure pressures are correct and then reset RPA. But, with a completely flat tyre RPA tells me nothing, it lets me drive away with a completely flat tyre. Useless! Thankfully, it should hold enough pressure to get me to the tyre shop without major incident. I'm running my tyres (normal tyres, not runflats) on touring around 2.5bar front and 2.6bar back, and TPM will give warning when pressure has dropped to ~1.7 -1.8 bar, so about 0.7-0.8 bar drop is getting noticed. Bare in mind that this system calculates information from wheel rotations, so it needs some distance to be driven before difference in wheel circumference has been detected. That's why even with flat tyre you won't get warning instantly. But at least you don't have to pay for pricey air valve with sensors. So it has some bonuses as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 6 hours ago, Jens said: Puncture repaired but fitter reckons tyre is FUBAR because it's obviously been run on for a short time while flat, the rubber inside has come off in a nice pile of dust and in places is down to the carcass. He's plugged the hole but reckons if I intend to do any mileage then it needs sorting within the next week. FARK! Fronts are very close to needing replacement so that's three out of the four that need replacing, may as well just do all four! 😕 Yeah, you can't drive on a flat at all. It ruins the tyre from the inside. I learned that lesson the hard way too! You have to replace that tyre now. I'm surprised the tyre place repaired it for you and allowed you to go as that places liability on them now, usually they would refuse to touch the tyre on that basis. Next time pump it up before driving any distance. I now carry a foot pump for such eventualities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 (edited) 1 hour ago, Tallman85 said: I know but it was dark in the garage, my back was killing me bended, sharp edges cutting me everywhere… and I gave up. 3 out of 6 not working. What’s the impact? Its warm weather here. The impact is starting on 3 cylinders and pushing out extra unburnt diesel out of the exhaust on startup. No critical issue per se, but other things like DPF regen will not work because of the DDE error stored in the Ecu, so there are indirect consequences to consider. Stop being a pussy, man up and get them sausage fingers turning tools. You can deal with a bit of pain and have the satisfaction you did it all yourself afterwards. You are welcome 😉 Edited February 12 by Humour 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 (edited) 11 hours ago, Ray112 said: I'm running my tyres (normal tyres, not runflats) on touring around 2.5bar front and 2.6bar back, and TPM will give warning when pressure has dropped to ~1.7 -1.8 bar, so about 0.7-0.8 bar drop is getting noticed. Bare in mind that this system calculates information from wheel rotations, so it needs some distance to be driven before difference in wheel circumference has been detected. That's why even with flat tyre you won't get warning instantly. But at least you don't have to pay for pricey air valve with sensors. So it has some bonuses as well. I knew it used rotational distance to calculate whether the inflation is correct. Thing is, I must have picked up that screw on the way home from work or, more likely, at work! So I can't fathom how the RPA/TPM didn't twig that it was losing pressure on the way home? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 10 hours ago, Humour said: Yeah, you can't drive on a flat at all. It ruins the tyre from the inside. I learned that lesson the hard way too! You have to replace that tyre now. I'm surprised the tyre place repaired it for you and allowed you to go as that places liability on them now, usually they would refuse to touch the tyre on that basis. Next time pump it up before driving any distance. I now carry a foot pump for such eventualities. Experience is a hard master, eh? If I'd know it was flat when I went out I wouldn't have driven on it, of course. With it being the nearside tyre that went flat I didn't even see it as I approached the car and got in! Still a bit peeved at iDrive for not warning me - it warns me about almost everything else that's non-critical, when it comes to critical and important matters such as a flat tyre or low oil level it stays silent! Thinking about changing from a 245/45/17 to a 225/50/17 just to save a bit on having to replace all four at the same time, and I might get the wheels refurbed depending on cost and convenience - anyone have any experiences at changing to a 225? And while I'm at it, what's a good tyre for grip, longevity and noise? I've been using Continental Premium Contact 6 for a good few years now, they grip very well and I find them to be very quiet, but I'm not sure I'd claim them to last very long, I was running Kumho tyres before and can't say they last any longer really. Oh, and the other reason I chose the Contis was that they have rim protection built in - what other tyres have this feature? Edited February 13 by Jens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 59 minutes ago, Jens said: I knew it used rotational distance to calculate whether the inflation is correct. Thing is, I must have picked up that screw on the way home from work or, more likely, at work! So I can't fathom how the RPA/TPM didn't twig that it was losing pressure on the way home? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Experience is a hard master, eh? If I'd know it was flat when I went out I wouldn't have driven on it, of course. With it being the nearside tyre that went flat I didn't even see it as I approached the car and got in! Still a bit peeved at iDrive for not warning me - it warns me about almost everything else that's non-critical, when it comes to critical and important matters such as a flat tyre or low oil level it stays silent! Thinking about changing from a 245/45/17 to a 225/50/17 just to save a bit on having to replace all four at the same time, and I might get the wheels refurbed depending on cost and convenience - anyone have any experiences at changing to a 225? And while I'm at it, what's a good tyre for grip, longevity and noise? I've been using Continental Premium Contact 6 for a good few years now, they grip very well and I find them to be very quiet, but I'm not sure I'd claim them to last very long, I was running Kumho tyres before and can't say they last any longer really. Oh, and the other reason I chose the Contis was that they have rim protection built in - what other tyres have this feature? If you are looking for grip then downsizing on tyre width isn't right move for starters. Plus tyres will look more stretched, which definitely don't look good on standard 17" rims, unless you are 18 years old teen-ager. Since my car is parked on drive with rear end again house door, it only takes two steps and it's already a habit for me to have a quick look down both sides just to see that tyres are all with good pressure before setting off. If it would be parked on roadside, I probably wouldn't walk around every day time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 13 hours ago, Humour said: The impact is starting on 3 cylinders and pushing out extra unburnt diesel out of the exhaust on startup. No critical issue per se, but other things like DPF regen will not work because of the DDE error stored in the Ecu, so there are indirect consequences to consider. Stop being a pussy, man up and get them sausage fingers turning tools. You can deal with a bit of pain and have the satisfaction you did it all yourself afterwards. You are welcome 😉 Well, no pressure 🙂 I am really not in the mood to do it at the mom. Plus i have been there already and last time i could not remove the connector and i could not figure out how not to drop the bolts and i couldn't even reach them by hand. And i need to remove the manifold again and the little items that come with it. The water fitting is in the damn way...so most probably i would need to buy the part and gasket so if I take it out, at least i have everything in place ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 (edited) 5 hours ago, Jens said: I knew it used rotational distance to calculate whether the inflation is correct. Thing is, I must have picked up that screw on the way home from work or, more likely, at work! So I can't fathom how the RPA/TPM didn't twig that it was losing pressure on the way home? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Experience is a hard master, eh? If I'd know it was flat when I went out I wouldn't have driven on it, of course. With it being the nearside tyre that went flat I didn't even see it as I approached the car and got in! Still a bit peeved at iDrive for not warning me - it warns me about almost everything else that's non-critical, when it comes to critical and important matters such as a flat tyre or low oil level it stays silent! Thinking about changing from a 245/45/17 to a 225/50/17 just to save a bit on having to replace all four at the same time, and I might get the wheels refurbed depending on cost and convenience - anyone have any experiences at changing to a 225? And while I'm at it, what's a good tyre for grip, longevity and noise? I've been using Continental Premium Contact 6 for a good few years now, they grip very well and I find them to be very quiet, but I'm not sure I'd claim them to last very long, I was running Kumho tyres before and can't say they last any longer really. Oh, and the other reason I chose the Contis was that they have rim protection built in - what other tyres have this feature? I understand what you mean. I get TPM warnings on mine when the tyre is not flat but has lost some pressure (I have been managing a tyre with a nail in it for nearly 1 year, but that's another story). So I know that it's working as I know how much pressure I loose over what period of time, but to not trigger when the tyre is fully deflated that's a mystery. It's also a mystery why when I left my oil pressure sensor unplugged after recent work to replace my glow plugs, no warnings (or codes in ISTA) came on over a 20 mile trip, that's a mystery too. What's also a mystery is how you wouldn't notice, a car with a flst tyre drives like shit and crabs requiring you to give different steering input to keep it going where you want, that's very very noticeable from what is normal. With that said, it doesn't take more than a few Revolutions of a flst tyre to ruin it, so yeah, best to know before moving, I guess that's where TPMS sensors come in. Anyway, on tyres if you can't afford to do all four, do two at the time (axle at a time), I'm also in that boat. Regarding tyre choice, Grip and longevity are opposing forces, there is always a compromise. Michelin, Continental and Goodyear are the time proven top tier tyres if you can afford them. Of those their "sport" /UHP ranges offer the best performance but at the expense of longevity, or their "efficient grip" /efficiency based tyres offer the best longevity at the expense of ultimate grip. The choice depends on your driving style, climate and objective, but you can't go wrong with any of them imo. Even though I don't do it often, on the very rare occasion I'm in the car without the Mrs. I want to lean on the car and have fun if conditions allow, so I value grip over longevity. Based on that criteria my target is the Eagle F1 Assym 6 tyre. It's consistently in the top 3 in testing but has been claimed to last up to 20% longer than the Michelin PS5, whilst being cheaper by quite a bit yet only marginally loses out in some specific test scores. Overall a great choice for a UHP tyre, IMHO. Edited February 13 by Humour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Humour said: Some shit... Pfft. 🙃 Edited February 13 by Humour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 FFS, I hate mobiles for typing messages! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 1 hour ago, Humour said: I understand what you mean. I get TPM warnings on mine when the tyre is not flat but has lost some pressure (I have been managing a tyre with a nail in it for nearly 1 year, but that's another story). So I know that it's working as I know how much pressure I loose over what period of time, but to not trigger when the tyre is fully deflated that's a mystery. It's also a mystery why when I left my oil pressure sensor unplugged after recent work to replace my glow plugs, no warnings (or codes in ISTA) came on over a 20 mile trip, that's a mystery too. What's also a mystery is how you wouldn't notice, a car with a flst tyre drives like shit and crabs requiring you to give different steering input to keep it going where you want, that's very very noticeable from what is normal. With that said, it doesn't take more than a few Revolutions of a flst tyre to ruin it, so yeah, best to know before moving, I guess that's where TPMS sensors come in. Anyway, on tyres if you can't afford to do all four, do two at the time (axle at a time), I'm also in that boat. Regarding tyre choice, Grip and longevity are opposing forces, there is always a compromise. Michelin, Continental and Goodyear are the time proven top tier tyres if you can afford them. Of those their "sport" /UHP ranges offer the best performance but at the expense of longevity, or their "efficient grip" /efficiency based tyres offer the best longevity at the expense of ultimate grip. The choice depends on your driving style, climate and objective, but you can't go wrong with any of them imo. Even though I don't do it often, on the very rare occasion I'm in the car without the Mrs. I want to lean on the car and have fun if conditions allow, so I value grip over longevity. Based on that criteria my target is the Eagle F1 Assym 6 tyre. It's consistently in the top 3 in testing but has been claimed to last up to 20% longer than the Michelin PS5, whilst being cheaper by quite a bit yet only marginally loses out in some specific test scores. Overall a great choice for a UHP tyre, IMHO. I won't be looking at Goodyear runflats any time soon, if ever again. Bought my E61 with nearly new all 4 Goodyear runflats and in next 5 months replaced two tyres because of bulge on inner wall. In my 20 year driving experience I never ever had a sidewall damage on tyres, and I definitely can't recall any potholes hit with those tyre, but suddenly they have a damage. And I have read quite a few people having this experience with Goodyear runflats, so something isn't great with those tyres. Anyway I fitted just normal tyres instead of runflats and space saver spare wheel in boot. No more issues with tyres since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 2 hours ago, Humour said: I understand what you mean. I get TPM warnings on mine when the tyre is not flat but has lost some pressure (I have been managing a tyre with a nail in it for nearly 1 year, but that's another story). So I know that it's working as I know how much pressure I loose over what period of time, but to not trigger when the tyre is fully deflated that's a mystery. It's also a mystery why when I left my oil pressure sensor unplugged after recent work to replace my glow plugs, no warnings (or codes in ISTA) came on over a 20 mile trip, that's a mystery too. What's also a mystery is how you wouldn't notice, a car with a flst tyre drives like shit and crabs requiring you to give different steering input to keep it going where you want, that's very very noticeable from what is normal. With that said, it doesn't take more than a few Revolutions of a flst tyre to ruin it, so yeah, best to know before moving, I guess that's where TPMS sensors come in. Anyway, on tyres if you can't afford to do all four, do two at the time (axle at a time), I'm also in that boat. Regarding tyre choice, Grip and longevity are opposing forces, there is always a compromise. Michelin, Continental and Goodyear are the time proven top tier tyres if you can afford them. Of those their "sport" /UHP ranges offer the best performance but at the expense of longevity, or their "efficient grip" /efficiency based tyres offer the best longevity at the expense of ultimate grip. The choice depends on your driving style, climate and objective, but you can't go wrong with any of them imo. Even though I don't do it often, on the very rare occasion I'm in the car without the Mrs. I want to lean on the car and have fun if conditions allow, so I value grip over longevity. Based on that criteria my target is the Eagle F1 Assym 6 tyre. It's consistently in the top 3 in testing but has been claimed to last up to 20% longer than the Michelin PS5, whilst being cheaper by quite a bit yet only marginally loses out in some specific test scores. Overall a great choice for a UHP tyre, IMHO. I have this kit, fixed one on her car near the sidewall and it's been fine since. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003VE41OS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj123 Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 (edited) 5 hours ago, Humour said: I understand what you mean. I get TPM warnings on mine when the tyre is not flat but has lost some pressure (I have been managing a tyre with a nail in it for nearly 1 year, but that's another story). So I know that it's working as I know how much pressure I loose over what period of time, but to not trigger when the tyre is fully deflated that's a mystery. It's also a mystery why when I left my oil pressure sensor unplugged after recent work to replace my glow plugs, no warnings (or codes in ISTA) came on over a 20 mile trip, that's a mystery too. What's also a mystery is how you wouldn't notice, a car with a flst tyre drives like shit and crabs requiring you to give different steering input to keep it going where you want, that's very very noticeable from what is normal. With that said, it doesn't take more than a few Revolutions of a flst tyre to ruin it, so yeah, best to know before moving, I guess that's where TPMS sensors come in. Anyway, on tyres if you can't afford to do all four, do two at the time (axle at a time), I'm also in that boat. Regarding tyre choice, Grip and longevity are opposing forces, there is always a compromise. Michelin, Continental and Goodyear are the time proven top tier tyres if you can afford them. Of those their "sport" /UHP ranges offer the best performance but at the expense of longevity, or their "efficient grip" /efficiency based tyres offer the best longevity at the expense of ultimate grip. The choice depends on your driving style, climate and objective, but you can't go wrong with any of them imo. Even though I don't do it often, on the very rare occasion I'm in the car without the Mrs. I want to lean on the car and have fun if conditions allow, so I value grip over longevity. Based on that criteria my target is the Eagle F1 Assym 6 tyre. It's consistently in the top 3 in testing but has been claimed to last up to 20% longer than the Michelin PS5, whilst being cheaper by quite a bit yet only marginally loses out in some specific test scores. Overall a great choice for a UHP tyre, IMHO. Black circles generally have deals on, and being owned by Michelin usually a good discount. I got my set (Michelin PS 5) for £500 fitted (standard 17", 225, 50). They've so far covered circa 18k miles and only dropped 2mm of tread (8mm new, down to 6mm now). I generally change my tyres at 3mm, so expect to see another 25k at least before needing a change based on current wear data. That wear has been covered over most the UK & Europe too, so a varied mixture of road surfaces too. Edited February 13 by dj123 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 (edited) My car needed tracking, I checked all 4 adjustment points turned beforehand then after getting some feedback from a mechanics only group I'm in, I headed off to MG Autos's in Ripley (Derbyshire) https://www.mgautos.uk.com/wheel-alignment/ I finally found a place who actually know what they're doing with a Hunter system, they are race specialists so I had high hopes... Sure enough, car on the ramps and after a few minutes I saw then weighting the car. I had a proper good chat with the guy who runs the place and he filled me with confidence, there was one slight hiccup, front right camber was showing over a degree out, he did mention camber correction bolts but I told him these don't have such a thing and you pop the top mount pin out to adjust them, anyway, before I could finish the tech had already got that screen up (secondary display in the waiting room) and was about to crack on with zero prompting or any mention of "This will cost you more guv" I was already loading my autodoc basket with Lemforder arms as I figured after 6 years and all these potholes (that's also caused a slight buckle to my front left) that the bush would be torn, 5 mins later the tech comes wandering in proudly announcing that he had sorted the camber, it didn't seem right to him as the car was in such good condition and then he noticed the front right gauge had slipped 😆 Anyway, all 4 reset, alignment started from scratch (rear was bang on still) and it was all done, my car has NEVER been so well setup in my ownership, it drives bloody amazing... Yes it had drifted a little from the final, but they had just rolled the car to check it was settled. Edited February 16 by Gonzo 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 @Gonzo good to hear. I was hoping for some useful info with that story as my front right is also off on camber, it actuslly measured positive camber during the last tracking session, so it was a bit of an anticlimax it was just operator error, but I'm happy for you. I must have done the tracking on our track car 10 times in 5 years, the difference is always quite noticeable especially how the car rides over rougher surfaces. Will hopefully get the e60 had fully right, one day. Enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 On 13/02/2024 at 19:10, dj123 said: Black circles generally have deals on, and being owned by Michelin usually a good discount. I got my set (Michelin PS 5) for £500 fitted (standard 17", 225, 50). They've so far covered circa 18k miles and only dropped 2mm of tread (8mm new, down to 6mm now). I generally change my tyres at 3mm, so expect to see another 25k at least before needing a change based on current wear data. That wear has been covered over most the UK & Europe too, so a varied mixture of road surfaces too. ASDA Tyres have some very good deals on mail order tyres, but the big tyre seller round here refuses to fit them and the smaller tyre shops seem to have formed a cartel and charge enough per tyre (over £30 per corner when disposal fees have been added) to make it more expensive than buying through them! Anyway, car is booked in next Friday for a complete set of new boots and going to have the wheels done at the same time - been wanting to have them refurbed for a while as they look really scabby and it's really the only then letting the car down. It stands quite well for an oldun. While on the topic of tyres and punctures, found a nail in the rear tyre of the motorbike this morning! Not having a lot of luck with inflatables at the moment. Best check the doll is still working later, lol! @Gonzo how much was the hunter alignment, if you don't mind me asking - a ballpark figure is fine if you don't want to reveal in public? I have family up that part of the world and although I had mine hunter aligned about a year ago I have a deep mistrust that it's ever done properly and "that'll do" is probably the best I'm ever going to get round here. My uncle hasn't been well recently so I could conceivably pay him a visit and get the car set up properly at the same time since it's having new rubber at the end of next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 £90 plus VAT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 Today the damn bonnet fell on me…the shocks died! 😒 thank god its aluminum! would you go original or any other brand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 1 hour ago, Tallman85 said: Today the damn bonnet fell on me…the shocks died! 😒 thank god its aluminum! would you go original or any other brand? Stabilus is well known manufacturer for bonnet and boot struts and many more industrial machinery struts as well. I don't know what I have on my touring boot lid, but they are over year old now and still working perfectly. Boot is used a lot, so I don't think these are worth extra for OM part if aftermarket ones are holding well. Just don't take cheapest ones of eBay, they won't last long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 1 minute ago, Ray112 said: Stabilus is well known manufacturer for bonnet and boot struts and many more industrial machinery struts as well. I don't know what I have on my touring boot lid, but they are over year old now and still working perfectly. Boot is used a lot, so I don't think these are worth extra for OM part if aftermarket ones are holding well. Just don't take cheapest ones of eBay, they won't last long. Thx Ray. My bonnet ones are still the original bmw…they just died suddenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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