Ray112 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 (edited) So had vacuum pump off another two times today, found the problem and sort of fixed it. Of course time will tell how that went. Basically there's tiny air flap on the bottom of vacuum pump, which is kept in place with one rivet. In my case that rivet isn't really tight and flap can rotate slightly. When it follows gravity and goes down, there's little gap which is causing air to escape backwards into vacuum pump, causing poor vacuum at low RPMs. I managed to twist one of back corners so flap can't twist any more, seems fixed the problem for now. Anyway I don't understand why it started this after gasket replacement. That flap was partly open when I removed vacuum pump firs time, but because it was like that I didn't payed much attention to it. Most likely will buy another vacuum pump anyway. This one doesn't build much trust some how. Picture isn't mine, just downloaded from internet. My vacuum pump didn't have that allen key bolt, instead there was steel rivet. Edited January 28 by Ray112 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 @Ray112 yeah, without the experience and the first time that happens one could easily panic and freeze. She did well to save your cock up costing your wallet 😜 From your description it sound like one of the orings is not holding a seal, what you describe suggests that vacuum ic created but air is leaking in, so once at idle vacuum is lost. I would certainly be focusing on the parts you touched as opposed to the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 1 hour ago, Humour said: @Ray112 yeah, without the experience and the first time that happens one could easily panic and freeze. She did well to save your cock up costing your wallet 😜 From your description it sound like one of the orings is not holding a seal, what you describe suggests that vacuum ic created but air is leaking in, so once at idle vacuum is lost. I would certainly be focusing on the parts you touched as opposed to the pump. I see your point about gasket not holding air. But these pumps have fair bit of oil inside and if there's a problem with seals, you will get oil leak. After seal replacement pump is bone dry around all seals, so it must be something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 57 minutes ago, Ray112 said: I see your point about gasket not holding air. But these pumps have fair bit of oil inside and if there's a problem with seals, you will get oil leak. After seal replacement pump is bone dry around all seals, so it must be something else. Well something is not holding vacuum since you fiddled with it, but it's not bad enough to be faulty 100% of the time, it's only during idle when Rpm is low and the pump is working at minimum Revolutions and then only after the first application of the brake does it become evident, as you stated. If the pump was bad, you would have noticed this before, it's only after changing seals that it became apparent. Maybe you pinched or pierced a hose/pipe? It will be very coincidental and unlucky if the pump died exactly at the time you serviced it, that's why I suggest checking everything from the start again. Everything is possible though. Good lucj and keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 3 hours ago, Humour said: Well something is not holding vacuum since you fiddled with it, but it's not bad enough to be faulty 100% of the time, it's only during idle when Rpm is low and the pump is working at minimum Revolutions and then only after the first application of the brake does it become evident, as you stated. If the pump was bad, you would have noticed this before, it's only after changing seals that it became apparent. Maybe you pinched or pierced a hose/pipe? It will be very coincidental and unlucky if the pump died exactly at the time you serviced it, that's why I suggest checking everything from the start again. Everything is possible though. Good lucj and keep us posted. I will give an update on this mate. Today ordered another second hand pump from eBay just to see if that's the case. For sake of tenner it's worth a try. In afternoon I did about 60 mile drive, pump is still completely dry from outside, so that tells me seal must be fine. So it's hose pipe or little plastic connector at the end of pump where pipe attaches left, but I tested those both and obviously rest of parts connected to it,like brake servo, with brake bleeding vacuum pump and all system was holding vacuum, so that's brings me back to square one, with actual vacuum pump still being main suspect. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Changy Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 I fitted new rear lower ball joints (Rose bushes) to my E60. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 48 minutes ago, Changy said: I fitted new rear lower ball joints (Rose bushes) to my E60. I wish I was your neighbour @Changy … my e61 would be mint! 🙂 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Changy Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 12 hours ago, Tallman85 said: I wish I was your neighbour @Changy … my e61 would be mint! 🙂 You haven't seen my exorbitant rates 🤪 The rose bushes are a PITA, but the Meyle tool made it fairly easy compared to other similar jobs. I did have an issue refitting the wishbone, but that was caused by a previous grease monkey who overtightened it. Do the bushes on your E61 need replacing? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 7 hours ago, Changy said: You haven't seen my exorbitant rates 🤪 The rose bushes are a PITA, but the Meyle tool made it fairly easy compared to other similar jobs. I did have an issue refitting the wishbone, but that was caused by a previous grease monkey who overtightened it. Do the bushes on your E61 need replacing? i have no idea to be honest. but sometimes the car feels more like a boat rather than an m-sport. so i guess, yes, the yare gone after 16 years and 100k miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Changy Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 (edited) 2 hours ago, Tallman85 said: i have no idea to be honest. but sometimes the car feels more like a boat rather than an m-sport. so i guess, yes, the yare gone after 16 years and 100k miles. You can feel like the back end is sloppy if the ball joints are shot. Have you checked all the control arms and the bushings in the wishbone? I read that the E61 is harder on the Wishbone bushes, but I'm not talking from experience. I suggest checking the arms and bushes first. For the rose bushes, jack up the rear, grab the wheel at 12:00 and 6:00 and try to move it. Edited January 31 by Changy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 21 hours ago, Changy said: You can feel like the back end is sloppy if the ball joints are shot. Have you checked all the control arms and the bushings in the wishbone? I read that the E61 is harder on the Wishbone bushes, but I'm not talking from experience. I suggest checking the arms and bushes first. For the rose bushes, jack up the rear, grab the wheel at 12:00 and 6:00 and try to move it. something to plan out 🙂 first, I need to replace the front wishbones and arms...those are bothering me more. Luckily usually I don't exceed 70km/hr - 80km/h ....yeah I know, the stupid question would be...why the hell did you buy a 530d when my average speed is 36km/hr due to traffic etc....well that is when I start questioning my sanity 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 2 hours ago, Tallman85 said: something to plan out 🙂 first, I need to replace the front wishbones and arms...those are bothering me more. Luckily usually I don't exceed 70km/hr - 80km/h ....yeah I know, the stupid question would be...why the hell did you buy a 530d when my average speed is 36km/hr due to traffic etc....well that is when I start questioning my sanity 🤔 I mean look at this madness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Changy Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 5 hours ago, Tallman85 said: something to plan out 🙂 first, I need to replace the front wishbones and arms...those are bothering me more. Luckily usually I don't exceed 70km/hr - 80km/h ....yeah I know, the stupid question would be...why the hell did you buy a 530d when my average speed is 36km/hr due to traffic etc....well that is when I start questioning my sanity 🤔 The front control arms are straightforward provided the shock absorber strut releases from the wheel hub. The pinch bolt on my passenger side took a lot of effort to extract. It moved millimetres at a time using a 600mm breaker bar and a scaffold pole. Whatever you do, don't overtighten it or the bolt will banana. I would get some Deblock or Plus Gas and spray it on the bolts a day before you start. That gives you more chance of freeing them. Do you have an impact wrench? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 22 hours ago, Changy said: The front control arms are straightforward provided the shock absorber strut releases from the wheel hub. The pinch bolt on my passenger side took a lot of effort to extract. It moved millimetres at a time using a 600mm breaker bar and a scaffold pole. Whatever you do, don't overtighten it or the bolt will banana. I would get some Deblock or Plus Gas and spray it on the bolts a day before you start. That gives you more chance of freeing them. Do you have an impact wrench? Yes i have tools as i buy all the lidl parkside tools 🙂 i have the electric and the pneumatic impact. That is my worry that the strut will not release…and i have a parkside grinder and chainsaw too!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 On 28/01/2024 at 21:34, Ray112 said: I will give an update on this mate. Today ordered another second hand pump from eBay just to see if that's the case. For sake of tenner it's worth a try. In afternoon I did about 60 mile drive, pump is still completely dry from outside, so that tells me seal must be fine. So it's hose pipe or little plastic connector at the end of pump where pipe attaches left, but I tested those both and obviously rest of parts connected to it,like brake servo, with brake bleeding vacuum pump and all system was holding vacuum, so that's brings me back to square one, with actual vacuum pump still being main suspect. So update on my vacuum pump mystery. eBay pump arrived on Tuesday cheep and cheerful, little filthy on outside with oil (like 95% used ones are) which wasn't an issue, because obviously it was clear I'm replacing gaskets on that as well, because surely they will leak sooner or later anyway. Wednesday after work it started to rain, so no chance to get it replaced out on driveway. So yesterday after work I decided to give it a go. 5pm is enough dark outside, so sounds about perfect time for repairs 🤣 Glad I have repair light, which was previously fully charged. First inspected one way flat, which on replacement pump was very solid, not moving up or down and definitely keeping pump exit hole blocked. While replacing gaskets, payed 110% attention to position of all parts inside pump, how they sit against each other and so nothing gets turned over. Fitted pump and around 6.15pm it was safe to say my brakes are as sharp or even sharper than they used to be. So happy days I have brakes. Resume about my original pump - vacuum exit flap was definitely faulty, but it was like that before, so I would say it's more like production fault, which some how didn't make much issues until now. I believe main reason for no vacuum at idle was fact that pump was used (180k miles on engine) and when I took it apart, probably some parts were turned upside down, which wouldn't be an issue to new or low mileage pump, but since at 180k it definitely has some wear pattern on all parts and if suddenly layout gets disturbed, at some position parts are not sealing properly against housing. Another sign which confirms this theory is fact that after starting cold engine, I had good brakes at idle for first ~10 minutes, which can be explained with metal expansion when temperature increases (vacuum pump housing probably is different metal to internals and has different expansion coefficient) and while oil isn't up to temperature, it's viscosity is reduced, which helps to create better sealing between parts inside pump. So for everyone else who wants to replace gaskets on their vacuum pump on m47/m57 engines, it's very easy job, but pay extra attention when taking pump apart, it's very important to put it back together exactly the same way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray112 Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 6 minutes ago, Tallman85 said: Yes i have tools as i buy all the lidl parkside tools 🙂 i have the electric and the pneumatic impact. That is my worry that the strut will not release…and i have a parkside grinder and chainsaw too!! Parkside is quite good for DIY jobs and probably even more than that, plus it's friendly priced. I have quite a few things from parkside, last one was electric torque wrench, which I have tried only on wheels, but surely it's opening wheel bolts instantly, so looks like it might be around 500nm as it's rated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 35 minutes ago, Ray112 said: Parkside is quite good for DIY jobs and probably even more than that, plus it's friendly priced. I have quite a few things from parkside, last one was electric torque wrench, which I have tried only on wheels, but surely it's opening wheel bolts instantly, so looks like it might be around 500nm as it's rated. Exactly yes…the wheel impacter goes to 400nm. Im addicted as every time i go to the store I always buy something including agricultural stuff 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 (edited) . Edited February 4 by Tallman85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj123 Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 Today was a full service suite (oil & filter, Air filter, cabin filter, fuel filter), and tomorrow is a brake fluid change. She's going well at 177K miles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 On 27/01/2024 at 15:53, Humour said: Yesterday the Glow plugs and glow plug nodule were finally replaced. What a ball ache that job turned out to be! I nearly, gave up, twice. If it wasn't for my friend's fully tooled workshop and some extra experience on his side, I definitely would have failed doing this job. I followed @Gonzo advice and dismantled all of the covers and plastics required to remove the inlet manifold with the engine still running so to keep the head nad plugs as hot as possible. From the point of switching off the engine to taking the manifold off to have access to the plugs was less than 5 mins, but that's where the good news ended. 1,3 and 4 cracked fairly easily and moved half a turn, but 2 was though to get moving. I obviously sprayed an anti seize agent and I followed Gonzo's recommendation to set 30Nm on a torque wrench to no exceed that torque during removal. Well, they were so tight in there that after an hour of going in and out on all 4 in sequence, not forcing it beyond 30 when they bound up and going back in to loosen them up, I was probably not even a quarter of the way out. The screeching and k locking they were all making trying to wind them out of the holes was a pretty horrid experience. and I was ready to screw them back in and give up as I can't be dealing with a scrap head right now. Anyway, my mate had a look at the replacements and said that they are much bigger than the Alfa/Fiat ones he has to work with, and that the sound they were making if they were the Alfa ones he would advise giving up as well, but he said he will have a go on mine. In short he just bossed them out, but we were both cringing at the clicking they were making during that process, it didn't sound good at all! Fair play to him, his balls are a factor of 10 bigger than mine, that's for sure and I know we exceeded 30Nm to get them out. Suffice it to say when they came out the threads looked pretty bad. They were rought to the touch with plenty of aluminium inside the plug thread. Luckily for me he has a good set of metrics taps and dies and we found one that could rethread the plugs. Had a play with one used one and cleaned it up pretty good. I put the cleaned plug back in each hole and use it as a thread cleaner with some specific lubricant for this purpose. Surprisingly, the rethreaded plug went into all holes pretty cleanly, stiff but only minor squeaking and no cracking sounds. So we decided to use the equivalent tap cutter tool to clean the holes. That was tricky, the tool was short and the holes are not perpendicular to the head, they are about 5-10degrees leaned backwards which made getting the tool to sit true in the holes quite difficult. That wasn't helped by the fact that the tool was binding right at the start of going in so again I was a bit reluctant to force it. With alot of messing about with the retheeaded plug and feeling the tool engage by my fingers I managed to get the tool in all the holes and within a few attempts managed to fully rethread 1,3 and 4. No 2 was another matter, I managed to get the tool in about half way, but it really bound up beyond that and again I was afraid of forcing the thread and damaging it in the head, instead of just coealing it, or worse, snapping the cutting tool inside which had a pretty thin neck so didn't want to risk it. So despite my OCD kicking me in the balls, I decided to take my win and fit the new plugs with No2 half cut. No thanks to Autofuck (that would the Autodoc), I also found they sent me the wrong plugs as they were 10-15cm shorter than what came out. Looked at my order and the plugs in the order were what was shipped, but they are also stated as fitting to my car, so their database is obviously incorrect. FFS. Many frantic phone calls later, a local place with stock of 4 Bosch plugs released me with £80 of my hard earned, but at least I was back in the game, pending delivery. The new plugs were the correct length. 1,3 and 4 were like butter going in. No 2, well obviously that one was going to resist. Not as bad as when coming out, but it took some effort winding it from half way in. All torqued to 13Nm. I'd argue that No2 is tighter as that took more than 13Nm to reach the seat imo. Putting everything back in was also a bit frantic as the plugs didnt arrive till 4pm and we had to be out by 5 (pesky children lol). The net result is for the first time ever, since I owned the car, ISTA is showing all modules in green and no fault codes, I mean, I can't believe that still, especially given that I was left with one plug in the engine bay by the Alternator/AC compressor area I could not find a home for and run out of time to play. The previous time I took the manifold off, I don't recall ending up with a connector with no home, but this time I did. A bit perplexed to be honest as it's a split loom with a the other plug in the split going to a connector hanging from the AC compressor, so its brother from that loom can't live that far away. I thought that's the Air sensor connector (as its close enough and it fits (same connector), but it wasn't, I found that plug and then realised I mixed them up, so now I have one connector without a home. Overall, took a whole bloody day and the other two jobs I had planned now have to wait till next time. Now I'll have to research the electrical connections in the N47 bay and see if I can find where it belongs. I thought ISTA will throw a code and show me, but nothing, yet. Will be scanning her again after a day or two of driving to see if anything pops up. Everything in this car is a bloody fight, and I thought Italians cars were bad 😜 Hate those jobs, I refuse to do N47 engines now for that reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 2 hours ago, Gonzo said: Hate those jobs, I refuse to do N47 engines now for that reason. Yay, @Gonzo is back! You ok fella? Truth be told, my fallback plan was to wind them back in, hit you up and wave some green in your face to help me get them replaced..... lol I planned to do 4 jobs that day, did only the one, and the old plugs did light up pretty quick with the old battery and a cable test, so they were probably not toast, but 2 of them were definitely not working as they were black and sooty compared to the other two. Either way, at the age of the car and wanting to have it 100% rreliable I bit the bullet, defo not a pleasent job. I'm still confused about the leftover connector though. I found what it is and plugged it in (the oil pressure switch in the filter housing), but no fault on dash and no fault on ISTA with it unplugged has me head scratching. I drove 20ish miles home from the garage to mine with it u plugged and zero faults or lights registered. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 1 hour ago, Humour said: Yay, @Gonzo is back! You ok fella? Truth be told, my fallback plan was to wind them back in, hit you up and wave some green in your face to help me get them replaced..... lol I planned to do 4 jobs that day, did only the one, and the old plugs did light up pretty quick with the old battery and a cable test, so they were probably not toast, but 2 of them were definitely not working as they were black and sooty compared to the other two. Either way, at the age of the car and wanting to have it 100% rreliable I bit the bullet, defo not a pleasent job. I'm still confused about the leftover connector though. I found what it is and plugged it in (the oil pressure switch in the filter housing), but no fault on dash and no fault on ISTA with it unplugged has me head scratching. I drove 20ish miles home from the garage to mine with it u plugged and zero faults or lights registered. . Just a mid-life crisis and nervous breakdown rolled into one 🫣 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallman85 Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 On 07/02/2024 at 21:12, Changy said: I always change the nuts and I check the head of the bolt. If it's not gnarled, I will get the wire brush on the threads and see if they are acceptable. I have a good guy at my local BMW dealer, and he gives me a healthy discount. I've replaced all but three bolts on the rear suspension and I feel better for doing it. I'm a bit OCD with things like that 🤣 2 hours ago, Humour said: Yay, @Gonzo is back! You ok fella? Truth be told, my fallback plan was to wind them back in, hit you up and wave some green in your face to help me get them replaced..... lol I planned to do 4 jobs that day, did only the one, and the old plugs did light up pretty quick with the old battery and a cable test, so they were probably not toast, but 2 of them were definitely not working as they were black and sooty compared to the other two. Either way, at the age of the car and wanting to have it 100% rreliable I bit the bullet, defo not a pleasent job. I'm still confused about the leftover connector though. I found what it is and plugged it in (the oil pressure switch in the filter housing), but no fault on dash and no fault on ISTA with it unplugged has me head scratching. I drove 20ish miles home from the garage to mine with it u plugged and zero faults or lights registered. . It was easy to replace the plugs on the m57 but i failed to reach the module with the manifold out 😞 is there a way to reach it from the bottom?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 2 hours ago, Gonzo said: Just a mid-life crisis and nervous breakdown rolled into one 🫣 Ohh mate, that hits closer to home than you can imagine, but we gotta soldier on. The damn E60 is doing a good job of distraction 😂 but the wallet extraction is less welcome 😭 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humour Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 1 hour ago, Tallman85 said: It was easy to replace the plugs on the m57 but i failed to reach the module with the manifold out 😞 is there a way to reach it from the bottom?? I haven't seen the arrangement of the N57 or if it's any different than mine, but on mine I have seen a video of a guy doing it without taking the manifold off. You basically have to take the bracket out that it fits on, it's only two bolts holding the bracket in place but access is somewhat limited, but still doable at the expense of a couple of scuffed knuckles 😏 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.