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What did you do to your E60/61 today?


Tallman85

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6 hours ago, Tallman85 said:

Typical answer 🙂 

It's actually quite good answer 😀, took me 4 months after remapping to notice any average MPG improvement. Because mostly you are happy about extra grunt under pedal and start to enjoy it most of time. On a long run while driving with steady speed there is some improvement in fuel consumption after remapping. But don't expect something like 30mpg will change to 38mpg, it's not that big difference. Usually 1-2mpg improvement and IF driven sensibly. Which is not common practice with BMW cars 😀

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1 minute ago, Ray112 said:

It's actually quite good answer 😀, took me 4 months after remapping to notice any average MPG improvement. Because mostly you are happy about extra grunt under pedal and start to enjoy it most of time. On a long run while driving with steady speed there is some improvement in fuel consumption after remapping. But don't expect something like 30mpg will change to 38mpg, it's not that big difference. Usually 1-2mpg improvement and IF driven sensibly. Which is not common practice with BMW cars 😀


If you get more performance with same mpg, that is already enough….2mpg would be a nice bonus i guess. 

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19 minutes ago, Tallman85 said:


If you get more performance with same mpg, that is already enough….2mpg would be a nice bonus i guess. 

I would say it's definitely worth getting car remapped. Even if keeping everything stock and with all emission controls in place and functional. It's still driving like different car and as you mentioned either couple MPG improvement or more power for the same fuel is nice to get.

Just do your homework before remapping and find someone with good reputation to do it. You don't need necessary most expensive place, neither rolling road for standard car without modifications,  just a guy with laptop who has done plenty and knows his stuff can do good job as well. That's why do your research before. 

Edited by Ray112
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On 25/12/2023 at 19:30, Ray112 said:

I would say it's definitely worth getting car remapped. Even if keeping everything stock and with all emission conditions in place and functional. It's still driving like different car and as you mentioned either couple MPG improvement or more power for the same fuel is nice to get.

Just do your homework before remapping and find someone with good reputation to do it. You don't need necessary most expensive place, neither rolling road for standard car without modifications,  just a guy with laptop who has done plenty and knows his stuff can do good job as well. That's why do your research before. 

Thank you for the advice.

my priority is the follows to spend cash on the car:

- sort the suspension / wobble

- fix the leaking sump gasket

- remap engine

- apple 🍎 carplay install

- possibly xhp gearbox remap.

Edited by Tallman85
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7 hours ago, Tallman85 said:

Not sure who can help with this…the 530d lci sometimes is quoted as 235ps and sometimes 232ps…are there different models? Or just mis interpretation from bhp to ps? Thx.

Just difference between HP and PS. It's the same engine.

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10 hours ago, Ray112 said:

Just difference between HP and PS. It's the same engine.

I thought soo…but wasnt sure as there is a whole mix up between ps and bhp.  Although to complicate matters there are quoted 170kw and 173kw !  I believe mine would me 173kw being lci 2008.  😳

We are saying when new of course…cos probably their is a cemetery 🪦 of horses inside my engine 🥺😂

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3 hours ago, Tallman85 said:

I thought soo…but wasnt sure as there is a whole mix up between ps and bhp.  Although to complicate matters there are quoted 170kw and 173kw !  I believe mine would me 173kw being lci 2008.  😳

We are saying when new of course…cos probably their is a cemetery 🪦 of horses inside my engine 🥺😂

Yes, it's prefacelift vs facelift engines.

Screenshot_20231227_122848_com.android.chrome.jpg

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@Ray112 @Humour @Gonzo  talking about mpg, i think we forgot the hidden hero of all!  The intercooler is providing cooler air, denser air will provide more efficiency.  My intercooler is not in a good state…on the m sport it is too exposed and 10 yrs in the uk salt and mud is a bit brutal i think.  Mine seems clocked and the fins bent etc…15yrs i mean.  What do you think? Does it make sense? 

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9 hours ago, Tallman85 said:

@Ray112 @Humour @Gonzo  talking about mpg, i think we forgot the hidden hero of all!  The intercooler is providing cooler air, denser air will provide more efficiency.  My intercooler is not in a good state…on the m sport it is too exposed and 10 yrs in the uk salt and mud is a bit brutal i think.  Mine seems clocked and the fins bent etc…15yrs i mean.  What do you think? Does it make sense? 

It's a good point, but I think on a stock turbo it should be still fine unless it has boost leak due to holes/cracks somewhere or it's partly blocked with mud or anything else that cooling is seriously reduced. Those intercoolers are good for quite a bit power increase, so just bent ribs shouldn't be much of an issue on stock engine. Should be easy to tell how effective intercooler is by monitoring intake air temperature with some diagnostic equipment under hard acceleration. If temperature doesn't increase much, fitting new intercooler won't make much difference.

Very common on these are leaking boost pipe seals, they are located one each end of intercooler and one on boost pipe that sits on intake manifold/egr/throttle body. First giveaway sign is oil patches around those areas. Those seals replaced with new OEM parts probably will give more effect on power than old looking intercooler replacement if it's not leaking.

And if I would be looking into intercooler replacement, it's worth considering some fully aluminium aftermarket intercooler with oldschool push hose over pipe and jubilee clamp fixings in my opinion. It will require custom hose pipes from and to intercooler as well, but those are available on eBay and some other places. Those push on fixings are step backwards in my opinion. 

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Hello all - back to the suspension talk…today i went under the car to have a look..and i did not like what i saw but good to have your kind opinions….

IMG_8386.thumb.jpeg.c14f88015434b088bc96626521632271.jpeg

 IMG_8388.thumb.jpeg.15bd5a10e5038d4f2f602e735673aaff.jpeg

 

 


the video show too much play right?  I could see some cracks in the rubber. That is driver side.

below is the passenger side video and pic.

 

IMG_8392.thumb.jpeg.0ffed66e9f752ea0b24e1184bb6e1455.jpeg

 

What do you think? 
thx.

 

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Them bushings don't look fresh that's for sure. But play in video is hard to judge, because you are not bothered about how much they can twist, what matters is how much they move forward/backward. You can stick small breaker bar at the end of control arm and between subframe and try pushing it just to see how easy it moves, if you see any splits in rubber, that's definitely end of life and need replacing.

About roll bar links, those are gone, might not have any play yet, but won't last more than few months before you hear rattle and it's mot fail because of split dust boot. Good thing they are cheap and easy to replace. Ideally you want both sides lifted at the same time to remove any tension from ARB in case you are doing this home yourself, or I just did mines on ride on ramps without removing wheels. 

If you have access to garage with lift that's of course best option, but not necessarily needed.

Just had another look at them bushings, they are foooked, on bottom picture there's perfectly visible crack. Can't imagine other being much different. 

Edited by Ray112
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8 hours ago, Ray112 said:

Them bushings don't look fresh that's for sure. But play in video is hard to judge, because you are not bothered about how much they can twist, what matters is how much they move forward/backward. You can stick small breaker bar at the end of control arm and between subframe and try pushing it just to see how easy it moves, if you see any splits in rubber, that's definitely end of life and need replacing.

About roll bar links, those are gone, might not have any play yet, but won't last more than few months before you hear rattle and it's mot fail because of split dust boot. Good thing they are cheap and easy to replace. Ideally you want both sides lifted at the same time to remove any tension from ARB in case you are doing this home yourself, or I just did mines on ride on ramps without removing wheels. 

If you have access to garage with lift that's of course best option, but not necessarily needed.

Just had another look at them bushings, they are foooked, on bottom picture there's perfectly visible crack. Can't imagine other being much different. 

Thx Ray112.  Much appreciated.  I will buy a kit and replace the wishbones as well….in the coming weeks.  Not sure if i will do it myself or not..looks easy on videos but somehow mine is always seized or the bolt head is gone or the tool is too bulky 😳😂😂…. Like when i tried replacing the glow plug module, i removed the intake manifold but my hands couldn’t reach the damn thing.  

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1 hour ago, Tallman85 said:

Not sure if i will do it myself or not..looks easy on videos but somehow mine is always seized or the bolt head is gone or the tool is too bulky

The drop link needs replacing and is only problematic if the torx screw is knackered. Occasionally, I have to split the nut or cut it off with a grinder, but then, the next set comes off without a problem. I've never known the large suspension bolts to seize. Yes, they can hang on, but spraying them with a release spray and a decent breaker bar will do the trick. If you have an impact wrench, it certainly helps. 

As previously mentioned, the arms need to be torqued with the car at ride height. You need a jack to lift the hub and load the suspension before you fully tighten them. It is straightforward to perform the work, just ensure you plan it all before you start. 

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I bought another E61 today, 2005, 530d, needs a bit of work. I'm not keeping it; I got it with a mate in mind who's sick of me taking the piss out of him only having a 520d 😅

Horrific weather, aquaplaning, driving through flood water, constant downpours, and we knew it had dodgy wipers, so I was prepared to stop roadside and swap the motor if needed, Lee made it 113 of the 115 miles back before they shat it, so I made him follow me with no wipers so close to home 😅

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31 minutes ago, Gonzo said:

I bought another E61 today, 2005, 530d, needs a bit of work. I'm not keeping it; I got it with a mate in mind who's sick of me taking the piss out of him only having a 520d 😅

Horrific weather, aquaplaning, driving through flood water, constant downpours, and we knew it had dodgy wipers, so I was prepared to stop roadside and swap the motor if needed, Lee made it 113 of the 115 miles back before they shat it, so I made him follow me with no wipers so close to home 😅

Getting older and wiser 😂

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3 hours ago, Gonzo said:

I bought another E61 today, 2005, 530d, needs a bit of work. I'm not keeping it; I got it with a mate in mind who's sick of me taking the piss out of him only having a 520d 😅

😅

Hey now!?!?! Nowt wrong with a 520D.

It's not about how BIG it is, it's about how you use it 😜

Edited by Humour
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10 hours ago, Humour said:

Hey now!?!?! Nowt wrong with a 520D.

It's not about how BIG it is, it's about how you use it 😜

You keep telling yourself that while your Mrs calls shotgun in mine 😉😆

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2 hours ago, Gonzo said:

You keep telling yourself that while your Mrs calls shotgun in mine 😉😆

When my Mrs starts riding in your car, you'll be the one buying the 520D and I'll be the one buying the 535D plus several other toys 😜😂

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Today I switched on the secret menu to watch my idle speed as my car is not smooth on idle, never was actually and i do get vibrations from engine and rattles from the exhaust.  The car idle in the region 655-670 when hot. However when the engine is slowing down it goes to 630-640 and recovers immediately…but of course it is rougher at the lower rpm and does not feel good.

i was thinking if i shall increase the rpm with ista u lets say +10 or +20?? Will that do any harm?

could it be that my engine mountings are dying?  Hence the roughness?  Any way to check them?

car 16 yrs old and 100k miles.

thank you 

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13 hours ago, Tallman85 said:

could it be that my engine mountings are dying?  Hence the roughness?  Any way to check them?

It needs two people or a way to video the engine bay. Engage a gear, put your foot on the brake and increase the revs. If the engine mount is poor, you will see the engine lift excessively, usually on one side.

Ensure you press hard on that brake pedal, and don't let someone do it if you don't trust them. It only takes a moment to see if the mounts are failing; there is no need to spend too long revving the engine.

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