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What did you do to your E60/61 today?


Tallman85

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1 hour ago, Gonzo said:

I hope the AC is working!

Yes luckily all working fine but after a day parked in the sun, which would be higher than 40 deg, it struggles to bring the temp down for the first 10 minutes. That snapshot was taken at 4pm…around 12pm it was 43 deg 🥵 …. 

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5 hours ago, Tallman85 said:

Yes luckily all working fine but after a day parked in the sun, which would be higher than 40 deg, it struggles to bring the temp down for the first 10 minutes. That snapshot was taken at 4pm…around 12pm it was 43 deg 🥵 …. 

Do you set the timer to kick the fans in before you get to the car to help shift some air through?

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1 hour ago, dj123 said:

i use it in Winter for a bit of help on the de-frosting the car before i get in. It runs for half hour (iirc) and usually makes a good impact on loosening any ice build up. 

How do you do this? Not something I knew existed!

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Just now, Bmwsmx said:

How do you do this? Not something I knew existed!

i don't think its on every spec, and not sure what LCI update it came in on - i think you need climate control (someone correct me if i'm wrong). 

Under the settings for climate, where you can adjust the heated seats distribution there's an option for fan timers where you can set 2 timers up to 24 hours in advance. 

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33 minutes ago, dj123 said:

i don't think its on every spec, and not sure what LCI update it came in on - i think you need climate control (someone correct me if i'm wrong). 

Under the settings for climate, where you can adjust the heated seats distribution there's an option for fan timers where you can set 2 timers up to 24 hours in advance. 

Yeah this, auto climates got a setting for 2 wake timers where I think it runs up to 20 mins provided the battery is charged enough, the others when the engines above a certain temp you can get out the car, spin the fan speed controller and it will fire up the fan and coolant aux pump, I only really use that one in winter if I nip the shops and the wife is cold.

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3 hours ago, dj123 said:

i don't think its on every spec, and not sure what LCI update it came in on - i think you need climate control (someone correct me if i'm wrong). 

Under the settings for climate, where you can adjust the heated seats distribution there's an option for fan timers where you can set 2 timers up to 24 hours in advance. 

Thanks, I have a lci with heated seats and climate so I must investigate. It’s my wife that drives I just fix it. She would be impressed with this feature though.

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7 minutes ago, Bmwsmx said:

Thanks, I have a lci with heated seats and climate so I must investigate. It’s my wife that drives I just fix it. She would be impressed with this feature though.

I set two timers today, one at 3.30pm and one at 4.45pm …but it did not make much difference as currently europe is cooking up badly… 

the leather seats were so hot that you need to wear trousers not to burn your self.

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Talking about AC, did a trip across Europe and noticed that at some point condenser getting frozen and letting any air through. If you switch off air-conditioning compressor for about 10 minutes, it's back to normal. Not happening when driving short distances, but once you don't switch off engine for good 4 hours it will get frost. 

So far it's definitely draining out condensate from underneath car. Thinking maybe to change pollen filter, but it's been replaced about 9 months ago so not sure if that's the case. Any other suggestions and has anyone else experiencing anything similar?

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3 hours ago, Ray112 said:

Talking about AC, did a trip across Europe and noticed that at some point condenser getting frozen and letting any air through. If you switch off air-conditioning compressor for about 10 minutes, it's back to normal. Not happening when driving short distances, but once you don't switch off engine for good 4 hours it will get frost. 

So far it's definitely draining out condensate from underneath car. Thinking maybe to change pollen filter, but it's been replaced about 9 months ago so not sure if that's the case. Any other suggestions and has anyone else experiencing anything similar?

You can raise the freeze cut off temp with ISTA to prevent this, it should be figuring it out without you helping but until it's on ISTA with temps checked to rule out a dodgy or dislodged evap temp sensor it won't be a simple thing to sort

image.thumb.png.89865b47bb58e6b2502ee8494a7e3fb4.png

Edited by Gonzo
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15 hours ago, Gonzo said:

You can raise the freeze cut off temp with ISTA to prevent this, it should be figuring it out without you helping but until it's on ISTA with temps checked to rule out a dodgy or dislodged evap temp sensor it won't be a simple thing to sort

image.thumb.png.89865b47bb58e6b2502ee8494a7e3fb4.png

You are a legend mate, straight to solution. Thanks a lot, only one question, I don't have ISTA, would NCS expert be able to do this? I have done few coding adjustments on various modules before with NCS, so I believe it should be possible this time as well.

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2 hours ago, Ray112 said:

You are a legend mate, straight to solution. Thanks a lot, only one question, I don't have ISTA, would NCS expert be able to do this? I have done few coding adjustments on various modules before with NCS, so I believe it should be possible this time as well.

Yeah, I should have said, I've seen something about it in ISTA but also knew where to look in the heater panel module that I put in the pic, just change that value and see how you get on with it, obviously it's been a big enough issue in the past that they had to add it as an option, although via BMW it would be an FA addition and recode via ISTA-p instead of 2 minutes on NCS 🙂

To make this a permeant change you can add an FA addition, looks like it will be #TEMP or #VERDE_TEMP (it will only accept one and I expect the #TEMP (you need the hashtag as it is a retrofit code) so should be easy to figure out) this means a default code of the module wouldn't remove the change you make.

Pic below extracted from the coding files, also known as my cheat sheet...

image.thumb.png.e45122e66ca63884c8467c2ba74cc0d6.png

Edited by Gonzo
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I had booked the car into a garage next week to get the gearbox service down & the belts/pulleys too. i;ve had the car 3 years and not had them done, and had no paperwork with the car either. The belt looked ok and the pulley had some minor vibration/wobble visible with the car on idle. 

After a bit of deliberating i thought i'd tackle the belts and pulleys myself as they didn't appear to be complicated to do. Unfortunately due to short notice not all the pulleys, or the air con belt, was in stock. So i got what i could and got on with the job. In the end the pulleys all felt fine (all span freely, no movement, funny noises etc) and the tensioner appeared to be working well, had good tension and kept the belt tight. So i didn't replace any and only replaced the crank pulley & the serpentine belt. The air-con belt also looks in good condition - not too old, no cracks in the ribs & still had a good stretch/return. 

The old pulley was not in bad shape with only the minor hairline cracks appearing around the outers of the rubber ring. However, with a few big trips coming up later on this year i figured it was best to play it safe and change it. Some Google searching supported that Corteco was the MFR to go with, and it also came with new stretch bolts. 

[url=https://ibb.co/ZghXHT6][img]https://i.ibb.co/bvrmHdg/PXL-20230729-092455027.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=https://ibb.co/y6rs8fL][img]https://i.ibb.co/rxVyZ7n/PXL-20230729-092457191.jpg[/img][/url]

[img]https://i.ibb.co/7vdzBDZ/PXL-20230729-092506711.jpg[/img]

 

Edited by dj123
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1 hour ago, dj123 said:

I had booked the car into a garage next week to get the gearbox service down & the belts/pulleys too. i;ve had the car 3 years and not had them done, and had no paperwork with the car either. The belt looked ok and the pulley had some minor vibration/wobble visible with the car on idle. 

After a bit of deliberating i thought i'd tackle the belts and pulleys myself as they didn't appear to be complicated to do. Unfortunately due to short notice not all the pulleys, or the air con belt, was in stock. So i got what i could and got on with the job. In the end the pulleys all felt fine (all span freely, no movement, funny noises etc) and the tensioner appeared to be working well, had good tension and kept the belt tight. So i didn't replace any and only replaced the crank pulley & the serpentine belt. The air-con belt also looks in good condition - not too old, no cracks in the ribs & still had a good stretch/return. 

The old pulley was not in bad shape with only the minor hairline cracks appearing around the outers of the rubber ring. However, with a few big trips coming up later on this year i figured it was best to play it safe and change it. Some Google searching supported that Corteco was the MFR to go with, and it also came with new stretch bolts. 

[url=https://ibb.co/ZghXHT6][img]https://i.ibb.co/bvrmHdg/PXL-20230729-092455027.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=https://ibb.co/y6rs8fL][img]https://i.ibb.co/rxVyZ7n/PXL-20230729-092457191.jpg[/img][/url]

[img]https://i.ibb.co/7vdzBDZ/PXL-20230729-092506711.jpg[/img]

 

They go hard, hence the cracks, then can't dampen, so you got it before it was a real issue unlike my mate, tossers flung his off 50 miles from me and I got to go bail him out as he won't let anyone else work on his car 😞

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1 hour ago, Gonzo said:

They go hard, hence the cracks, then can't dampen, so you got it before it was a real issue unlike my mate, tossers flung his off 50 miles from me and I got to go bail him out as he won't let anyone else work on his car 😞

Ah i see. It's the rubber hardening that causes the cracks and the failure, rather than it tearing from the rubber weakening/becoming too soft. 

What is the serviceable life / guide for how often they should be replaced? 

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8 minutes ago, dj123 said:

Ah i see. It's the rubber hardening that causes the cracks and the failure, rather than it tearing from the rubber weakening/becoming too soft. 

What is the serviceable life / guide for how often they should be replaced? 

Good for 10 years and over 100k miles

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1 hour ago, dj123 said:

hopefully that means i'm ok for a little while longer 😄 

Jobs like this tend to be a one off in the life of the car 🙂

Unless you buy parts from Euro car parts then it's your own silly fault 😅

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Replaced the injectors on bank 1 as I’ve been experiencing some rough running recently. That’s all injectors now index 11. Replaced the spark plugs whilst in there so car is running sweet now 👌.

I also replaced the “mickey mouse” flange as I had a little coolant weep in that area. Turns out there was a small nick in the hose under the clip that secured the old flange so seems I will need to replace the hose instead.

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