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What did you do to your E60/61 today?


Tallman85

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25 minutes ago, Ray112 said:

I'll do mine next weekend. Did both sides of glass wiring loom and washer pipe couple years ago, but now looks like actual boot lid wiring is starting to play up, today boot lid handle stopped working, tested handle microswitch with multimeter for continuity when pressed and it is fine, so must be wiring loom. Have some silicone wires ordered so will carry on repair next weekend. Might double check glass wiring as well while I'm there. 

I'll try to keep in mind to check what colours going to fog lights and to reverse lights. 

I was same, did it all a few years ago and made sure that I had the metal carriers installed correctly.  On checking the breaks I had were all inside the metal carriers.

Stupid design, i thought I had done the correct thing in extending them but sadly not they still broke.  The soldered parts were all good just inside the carriers.

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12 hours ago, Ray112 said:

I'll do mine next weekend. Did both sides of glass wiring loom and washer pipe couple years ago, but now looks like actual boot lid wiring is starting to play up, today boot lid handle stopped working, tested handle microswitch with multimeter for continuity when pressed and it is fine, so must be wiring loom. Have some silicone wires ordered so will carry on repair next weekend. Might double check glass wiring as well while I'm there. 

I'll try to keep in mind to check what colours going to fog lights and to reverse lights. 

Easier to pull both looms through at the same time, so nothing to lose mate.

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11 hours ago, Mpgscott said:

I was same, did it all a few years ago and made sure that I had the metal carriers installed correctly.  On checking the breaks I had were all inside the metal carriers.

Stupid design, i thought I had done the correct thing in extending them but sadly not they still broke.  The soldered parts were all good just inside the carriers.

I wrap them tight in cloth loom tape now to help prevent them kinking over, 7 years so far with my initial attempt on my own car, and I've revised how I do it to other cars over the years.

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51 minutes ago, Gonzo said:

I wrap them tight in cloth loom tape now to help prevent them kinking over, 7 years so far with my initial attempt on my own car, and I've revised how I do it to other cars over the years.

Yeh, I used cloth tape before and again now. I think it’s a balancing act of not using too much or too little.  I went more this time but you will see in my pic the natural form the cables take going through the hindge pieces and it’s in the middle the damage occurs as I think the wire is tight in the hindge so starts to fatigue the insulation over time.  It’s ok if they were all to do this at different points but they all seem to fail together then short.  Hopefully the heat shrink and tape and soft tape help we will see..

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I’m also just thinking it might be better to ditch the metal carriers and use some cable spiral and well wrapped looms.  Would look shit but might not stress the cables as much??

If mine go again I might try this.  It’s like these metal carriers were a last minute thought.  Worst thing is they were crap on previous models as well.

Bmw do so many things well, then stupid things like this and placement of modules as low as possible just have your head in your hands…

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4 hours ago, Mpgscott said:

I’m also just thinking it might be better to ditch the metal carriers and use some cable spiral and well wrapped looms.  Would look shit but might not stress the cables as much??

If mine go again I might try this.  It’s like these metal carriers were a last minute thought.  Worst thing is they were crap on previous models as well.

Bmw do so many things well, then stupid things like this and placement of modules as low as possible just have your head in your hands…

Don't never seen a happy outcome, it ends up catching and destroying itself, I've had a few come in like that 😞

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6 hours ago, Gonzo said:

TRIGGER WARNING

 

May be an image of car and text

I saw you post this in the FB groups. 

 

What's wrong with that? Looks like a Jock artist expression.... Take the sticker off and that strap hanging off the bumper and it might not look so bad. 😁

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Decided F-IT, going to lose the DPF as it's quite clogged, I have a backup plan, a spare full can, can is worth £200 scrap, I'm going to get a downpipe fabricated with heat wrap on it, EGR blank, not a stage 2 but a rolling road map to make sure everythings stable. Mapper suggested a FMIC.

Eventually get my DPF hydro cleaned should it ever need refitting.

Anyway, sat pricing things up and get told her car is making a funny noise.

Plan on hold while I buy and fit 2 new drive shafts to her farkin mini...

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2 hours ago, LF-E61 52OD said:

My 520D dpf gutted say 6 months ago and mapped out with EGR. Its brill. SDS drill and long drills and chisel things.

50 mpg at 75 mph and 500kg of gear.

MOT no issue.

I used a 300mm x 60mm Core drill to put a hole through mine. Just fits through the flange with a little wiggle. 

 

Mine had previously been drilled with 3 separate 20mm holes through it, but it looked quite restrictive so I put a bigger hole through the and it has an outline of Mikey Mouse now 😂

Also mapped out and EGR mapped to stay shut all the time with all gubbins still in place. I dont get the delete kits when you can have the Ecu not actuate the EGR valve.... Works a charm. 

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8 hours ago, Humour said:

I used a 300mm x 60mm Core drill to put a hole through mine. Just fits through the flange with a little wiggle. 

 

Mine had previously been drilled with 3 separate 20mm holes through it, but it looked quite restrictive so I put a bigger hole through the and it has an outline of Mikey Mouse now 😂

Also mapped out and EGR mapped to stay shut all the time with all gubbins still in place. I dont get the delete kits when you can have the Ecu not actuate the EGR valve.... Works a charm. 

In case egr isn't closing completely you might want a delete kit, but that's it. One thing I can suggest is to disconnect and plug with screw little vacuum pipe from egr. Vacuum solenoids do fail and start to leak /play up. So even mapped out it can still open egr if vacuum solenoid start to live it's own life. 

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14 hours ago, Ray112 said:

In case egr isn't closing completely you might want a delete kit, but that's it. One thing I can suggest is to disconnect and plug with screw little vacuum pipe from egr. Vacuum solenoids do fail and start to leak /play up. So even mapped out it can still open egr if vacuum solenoid start to live it's own life. 

IDK how that would be the case.

The valve itself is spring loaded and holds quote a bit of resistance. I know because I took the time to open the EGR and clean/relap the valve seat. 

If the Ecu isn't sending a signal to actuate the EGR, then it's cannot possibly actuate by itself. 

Earlier this year I took the inlet off when doing the glow plugs. After 1 year of usage I saw zero indication of soot inside the inlet manifold, which suggests all is well. 

The only thing I saw is quite a bit of blowby oil in the EGR tract that goes into the head, suggesting that oil is pooling up in that cavity. Not a massive amount but still, enough to reach the valve if no airow is coming in the opposite direction. 

Edited by Humour
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11 hours ago, Humour said:

IDK how that would be the case.

The valve itself is spring loaded and holds quote a bit of resistance. I know because I took the time to open the EGR and clean/relap the valve seat. 

If the Ecu isn't sending a signal to actuate the EGR, then it's cannot possibly actuate by itself. 

Earlier this year I took the inlet off when doing the glow plugs. After 1 year of usage I saw zero indication of soot inside the inlet manifold, which suggests all is well. 

The only thing I saw is quite a bit of blowby oil in the EGR tract that goes into the head, suggesting that oil is pooling up in that cavity. Not a massive amount but still, enough to reach the valve if no airow is coming in the opposite direction. 

Carbon build up will prevent it closing and a faulty EGR pressure convertor can also pull it open.

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1 hour ago, LF-E61 52OD said:

On 520D a bit of thin metal made up egr blank in between flanges after the cooler I think it was.

It had ecu delete as well.

That just blocks the head side, you still need the blank in the exhaust manifold to cooler.

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2 hours ago, Gonzo said:

Carbon build up will prevent it closing and a faulty EGR pressure convertor can also pull it open.

That's why I thoroughly cleaned the EGR valve and seat so it makes a good seal. I didn't know about the pressure converter though. 

Is there anything I can do mechanically to ensure it doesn't cause the EGR to open other than welding the valve shut? 

I dont want to remove the cooler and the other gubbins, I want it to look OEM but be disabled. 

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4 hours ago, Humour said:

That's why I thoroughly cleaned the EGR valve and seat so it makes a good seal. I didn't know about the pressure converter though. 

Is there anything I can do mechanically to ensure it doesn't cause the EGR to open other than welding the valve shut? 

I dont want to remove the cooler and the other gubbins, I want it to look OEM but be disabled. 

This is all I will fit, I hate delete kits. Keep the jubilee clips for other jobs, the end feed caps block the water flow anyway, the metal cap sits on the exhaust manifold, job done, invisible. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166855196447?

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2 minutes ago, Gonzo said:

This is all I will fit, I hate delete kits. Keep the jubilee clips for other jobs, the end feed caps block the water flow anyway, the metal cap sits on the exhaust manifold, job done, invisible. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166855196447?

N47 kit, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166745692314?

N47 kit with swirl flap delete https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166758114361

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I will check and see if I put 2 plates in on egr. Thanks.

For swirl flap delete, some epoxy putty is all I used to fill the hole left from whole left from  the brass square rod. I binned the item from a  kit purchased for some reason

 

Edited by LF-E61 52OD
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2 hours ago, Gonzo said:

Where does the little bung go?  (Before you say it, I already have a butt plug, ta 😜) - Edit I didn't see the previous link, I see now the bung is part of the package of the exhaust manifold on the M47 kit, it's not just the flat plate/gasket doing the exhaust blocking. 

Daymnn, I bought a new gasket from BMW to refit as I didn't refit the gasket the last time I took it off, so the exhaust mani connection is currently gasket less. I guess that's surplus to requirements with this kit in place. 

Interestingly I had my setup in place for a year without any indication inside the inlet manifold that it's been letting in exhaust gasses. The manifold was remanufactured (new basically) and only the blowby oil residue is evident inside the ports when I took it off a few months ago. 

I may still do this belts and braces as I would eventually like to increase boost a bit once the maintenance is up to snuff and I know what I have underneath me, but long way away still lol. 

Edited by Humour
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1 hour ago, Humour said:

Where does the little bung go?  (Before you say it, I already have a butt plug, ta 😜) - Edit I didn't see the previous link, I see now the bung is part of the package of the exhaust manifold on the M47 kit, it's not just the flat plate/gasket doing the exhaust blocking. 

Daymnn, I bought a new gasket from BMW to refit as I didn't refit the gasket the last time I took it off, so the exhaust mani connection is currently gasket less. I guess that's surplus to requirements with this kit in place. 

Interestingly I had my setup in place for a year without any indication inside the inlet manifold that it's been letting in exhaust gasses. The manifold was remanufactured (new basically) and only the blowby oil residue is evident inside the ports when I took it off a few months ago. 

I may still do this belts and braces as I would eventually like to increase boost a bit once the maintenance is up to snuff and I know what I have underneath me, but long way away still lol. 

It wouldn't be up your arse if it was little now would it 😆

There is no gasket where the cooler meets exhaust, the blanking plate sits there happily blocking the flow, metal plate on the egr cooler to block.

The important ones where it meets the exhaust manifold.

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2 hours ago, LF-E61 52OD said:

I will check and see if I put 2 plates in on egr. Thanks.

For swirl flap delete, some epoxy putty is all I used to fill the hole left from remo inf the brass square rod. I binned the item from a  kit purchased for some reason

 

You animal 😅

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23 hours ago, Humour said:

IDK how that would be the case.

The valve itself is spring loaded and holds quote a bit of resistance. I know because I took the time to open the EGR and clean/relap the valve seat. 

If the Ecu isn't sending a signal to actuate the EGR, then it's cannot possibly actuate by itself. 

Earlier this year I took the inlet off when doing the glow plugs. After 1 year of usage I saw zero indication of soot inside the inlet manifold, which suggests all is well. 

The only thing I saw is quite a bit of blowby oil in the EGR tract that goes into the head, suggesting that oil is pooling up in that cavity. Not a massive amount but still, enough to reach the valve if no airow is coming in the opposite direction. 

Of course it can when it fails, that's the thing, it's living it's own life without ecu request. Ecu might not require vacuum actuator to open egr, but if it's leaking vacuum, it might open egr randomly. 

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