Wilmslowsi

The gearbox issue is on the 740d, its a very high spec early 2009 I've had for 9+ years and looked after very well. I had the box serviced about 8K ago (pan/filter & fluid) but they didn't offer the valve body tubes, figure of 8 seal or electrical connector sleeve at the time... so I bet it is the the connector sleeve that's leaking and will need the pan/fluid removing to get to the release catch! Same box on the X5 and yes the F10 8 speed (also on later LCI F01) is much better... Arguably I don't need 7 series, 5 series and X5 but I like them... would also like E46 M3 too 🙂

Will do, although hard to get enough time and have to prioritise apparent leaky ZF6HP26 gearbox... only serviced 4000 miles ago and removed undertray full of ATF! Only just done all glow plugs, controller and valve cover.... never ending fun 🙂

Yes I like things on my cars to be 'just so' and start to question everything until I am satisfied I've found whatever 'sweet spot' gives me peace of mind! Despite agreeing with Andrew logically and assuming they are aligned fine, I still feel tempted to pull them off and build them like he has done, which is supported by other info I've found on the internet just so mine looks like that (top mount/top pad arrows pointing at each other AND the back of the fork)... Even if I did all that and it made no difference, somehow I would feel better... 🙂

Hi, I don't know to be honest, I've not had the struts out of this car myself so it will be as the garage handed it back. Taking a screenshot from the video I took at the weekend, it looks like the dust boot is at the bottom of the strut and the bump stop has separated and is held at the top. I did have it up on stands with suspension fully extended just before I took the video. Being paranoid I am now worried I may have a slightly bent strut from a pothole strike (under a puddle), as the FR camber also wasn't great when I last had it checked (was positive on that one side but just about still 'green'). The passenger side of the car rides a bit higher than the drivers side too, more pronounced at the rear for some reason!

Thanks Andrew, so effectively there are '3 ways' it can be set up and still be aligned, it just depends on which reference point is chosen (any one of the three 'bulges' on the top mount could be used to line the top pad up with and work down from. So in my case, its probably the next bulge to the left on the pic that has been lined up to the fork.

Thanks Andrew, I am a bit confused. The arrow on the top mount lines up with the arrow on the upper spring pad, both facing directly towards me as I look at the wheel arch straight on. The the spring orientation is defined by it fitting into the top and bottom spring pads, so the arrows on the upper spring pad and top mount are not pointing at the back of the fork, they are both pointing straight down at the center of the fork/lower control arm? Does that mean the spring has the wrong rotation, or not? Please see pic - based on your photos it 'feels' to me like the top mount/spring and upper/lower pads all need to be rotated so the matching arrows on the top mount/top pad, point at the back of the fork rather than being central? If that makes sense? Good point re: dampers, I am sure they would benefit from a refresh, but having just learned of the strut alignment requirement I want to ensure I understand it properly and am sure its all correct before moving forward.

Hi Andrew, Great Post! My F01 has had slightly unusual handling/mild instability over bumps since I broke a front coil spring and my local garage replaced springs on both sides. It been driveable but just hasn't felt quite the same as it was, despite numerous hunter alignments etc. Anyway, after reading your post I had a look at my front struts. The arrow markers on the top mount point straight outwards towards the ball joints on the each upper wishbone, which is perhaps the obvious assumption, but it looks from your article that should actually be in alignment with the rear of the fork prong on the side of the drop-link mount. I don't want to disassemble the strut if I don't have to as I am not replacing anything, but if I remove it from the car and compress the spring leaving the top mount in place, will I be able to rotate it to your suggested orientation and uncompress the spring, or is it essential to completely take it apart to line it all up? Cheers, Simon