Humour

Where does the little bung go? (Before you say it, I already have a butt plug, ta 😜) - Edit I didn't see the previous link, I see now the bung is part of the package of the exhaust manifold on the M47 kit, it's not just the flat plate/gasket doing the exhaust blocking. Daymnn, I bought a new gasket from BMW to refit as I didn't refit the gasket the last time I took it off, so the exhaust mani connection is currently gasket less. I guess that's surplus to requirements with this kit in place. Interestingly I had my setup in place for a year without any indication inside the inlet manifold that it's been letting in exhaust gasses. The manifold was remanufactured (new basically) and only the blowby oil residue is evident inside the ports when I took it off a few months ago. I may still do this belts and braces as I would eventually like to increase boost a bit once the maintenance is up to snuff and I know what I have underneath me, but long way away still lol.

That's why I thoroughly cleaned the EGR valve and seat so it makes a good seal. I didn't know about the pressure converter though. Is there anything I can do mechanically to ensure it doesn't cause the EGR to open other than welding the valve shut? I dont want to remove the cooler and the other gubbins, I want it to look OEM but be disabled.

Kicked the tyres and told the old girl to take my to my local go kart track for my Bday (free if you bring a friend).... Then got a. Mahoosive sister on me hand for my trouble, but finished respectable 2nd behind my best fried, so I won't be hearing the end of that for the next year. https://youtu.be/YT9k9gZr5ps?si=r7CTfTZeeNDBkiIy

Wow. Well done mate, that's good going. I thought owing a car for 12yrs was a stretch, but clearly I'm an amateur 😂 Sorry for the badge loss. Could it have fallen by itself? - now I read the full. Thread I see my question has been already answered. Little Cnuts.

IDK how that would be the case. The valve itself is spring loaded and holds quote a bit of resistance. I know because I took the time to open the EGR and clean/relap the valve seat. If the Ecu isn't sending a signal to actuate the EGR, then it's cannot possibly actuate by itself. Earlier this year I took the inlet off when doing the glow plugs. After 1 year of usage I saw zero indication of soot inside the inlet manifold, which suggests all is well. The only thing I saw is quite a bit of blowby oil in the EGR tract that goes into the head, suggesting that oil is pooling up in that cavity. Not a massive amount but still, enough to reach the valve if no airow is coming in the opposite direction.

I used a 300mm x 60mm Core drill to put a hole through mine. Just fits through the flange with a little wiggle. Mine had previously been drilled with 3 separate 20mm holes through it, but it looked quite restrictive so I put a bigger hole through the and it has an outline of Mikey Mouse now 😂 Also mapped out and EGR mapped to stay shut all the time with all gubbins still in place. I dont get the delete kits when you can have the Ecu not actuate the EGR valve.... Works a charm.

Bear in mind you have no guarantee that the used module is sound. No breaker will scan the car for you to check the car it came from wasn't also throwing the same error. It's a 50/50 gamble Imo. I just bought new on that, it was sub 100 from those dodgy Latvian fukkers in Germany > Autodoc.

I saw you post this in the FB groups. What's wrong with that? Looks like a Jock artist expression.... Take the sticker off and that strap hanging off the bumper and it might not look so bad. 😁

I bet mine has been hacked. It came with one after market key and I had someone add a second key for me, also aftermarket. I didn't know about this until today so I bet mine is operating via the hacked route. 🤔

The problem with your dilema is once the rear is changed in any way it will then affect the front. It's the reason why when the rear is tracked the front follow after. The thrust angle will be affected and without the measuring tools you will be playing a guessing game. A left field choice would be to Google for any race shops near your location. Any garage that does racing will be able to do tracking with strings well enough for what you need. If you had to gamble, touch only the wheel that had the arm replaced and then only the toe adjustment. Iirc the adjustment is made via a eccentric bolt via the inner mount of one of the arms. If you were to look what bolt is used to secure each arm into the subframe you should be able to see the one with the funny collar. Adjust that bolt to modify the tracking on the wheel. You may be able to eyeball it close enough not to completely ruin a tyre within a few hundred miles, but it's a flip of a coin imo.

Thanks for the feedback. I know for a fact someone had modded the lights before me because the dust caps have holes drilled out in them that were covered with gaffer tape, so very likely LED's were fitted or Hid or something. I'm not sure how LED's that typically draw less than a Halogen can overheat wires though? I was looking for replacement covers but they are extortionate money for a plastic cap. Nearly half way towards a used pair of headlights. Will keep you posted on the longevity. Turtle wax says about a year of protection by the ceramic wipes in the kit.i I'm thinking of doing them again though. I can see micro cracks when the lights are on at night which I suspect is because I didn't have the 600grit and didn't take enough material off. By the way, is the wiring only accessible once the lenses are out?

@Ray112 as I said before in your thread, you did a great job. Making those tools was crucial as well. I dont recall, did you also rewire the lights internally or use the old OE wiring? If you still have your original refurbed lights, I may be interested if you are willing to sell.

IDK how different the M47 charge pipe is to the N47 but I didn't face massive issues refitting. I made sure that the seals are fully seated in the channel they are supposed to sit in, that was the most involved part. I did all the seals from turbo outlet to manifold inlet, 4 or 5 in total iirc. I dont recall lubing the seals. The trick I think was to make sure the clip/clamp part is fully retracted and keeping it that way, that's probably what's stopping it fully seating. Don't be afraid to put some force into the pipe as you look to push it all the way in.

Seeing as I'm getting older and more blind with each passing day, I decided to polish the Headlights today. The outcome was ok(ish). Used the Turtlewax Headlight Speed kit coz it's cheap and it did an OK job with the rear lights. A couple of observations. 1.) The supplied sand paper pad No1 and No2 I think are less abrasive than 1200 grit, so too much on the safe side imo. I had some 1200 grit and 400 grit around,.but felt the 400 would be too abrasive so only used the 1200 to wet sand with, which did a better job than the pad in the kit. Ideally an 800 grit and 1000 grit would be my choice if doing that again. 2.) The end result was difficult to judge because the process showed that the inside of both lenses have several water stains and other marks, plus dust which makes it difficult to judge how good the outer surface has been cleaned and polished. Anyway, from a distance they do look a touch cleaner, but up close the stuff on the inside if visible, hence the "ish". Given this and the common pvc jacket disintegration of the Internal wiring, the proper fix is to get a spare set of lights down the line and have them rebuilt with new wiring and new lenses. I can't see any other way of getting a long term solution in place. Some pics.... 1 and 2 the starting point. 3 and 4 wet sanded down, not polished. 5 - 8 I think are after polishing. 9 and 10 after ceramic coating and wiping down.

Start with the module. By far the easier and qucker job to get done. Them check ista again. Don't buy any old Module though,. Beru or one other that @Gonzo@Gonzo can confirm is a safe bet. BTW, welcome, and what a nice uncle,. I hope he didnt sting you lol