db9

95 e34 530iT So 2 questions.. Since hood sound insulation is NLA has anyone tried aftermarket items out of Turkey - Bamboli is the company name .. Also recently removed the interior panel that covers the rear wiper tank and pump (replaced the pump) the panel had a grey foam on the back that just fell apart to the touch. I assume that its for "noise" I would like to put something back on - any suggestions?

So I have had success and wanted to share.. if, as in my case all appears to work except that the latch is stuck I though that before I attempted to remove the door panel with the door closed and obviously run the risk of panel damage I wanted to see if I could apply penetrating oil or lube to the mechanism. I had found a link on the big coupe forum about passing an aerosol can straw past the door seal from the outside .. I tried on the other rear door to see if I could do so and found that I couldn’t. However.. by looking at the open door I determined that I could get the straw in from the inside (cabin) as the inner seal is visible and not as a tight seal.. as I show in the attached pictures the straw can be easily pushed and guided by the striker body and will end up at the “pin” .. connect your favourite “cleaner/lube” and give it a couple of shots protecting the interior in case of overspray.. I had to let things sit for a hour or so and then gave it another shot.. mechanism freed up and I was able to open the door.. clean and lube some more ..

Thank you Sir.. any idea if there is a way to get spray lube at the latch mechanism from above before taking the door card off ? thinking is that the mechanism may just be sticking and not releasing from the striker ( might as well try this first)

1995 530iT left rear door is locked - both inside and outside lever do not release the door. Power activator can be heard if I open and close the locks with the key - the pull knob moves (up and down) Suggestions as how to remove the inner door panel with the door closed?

Hi, Base lining 1995 530i Touring (CND car) build date is 04/95 (VIN GF81171) At this point the washer pump for the windscreen doesn't work and I don't know if the headlight/fog light cleaner works either I've determined that the windscreen washer pump needs to be replaced (applied direct power with no response) - however with the airbox removed I see there is a second tank mounted lower and behind the bumper - this is gravity fed from the main tank mounted on the right inner fender. RealOEM show this as item 12 (61678350934) on.. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_0057 This diagram also shows pump (item 28) and gasket (item 29) and no part number as they are "greyed" out in the image (so NLA?) Any reference that I can find in Bentley doesn't mention this tank. However the "main" tank appears graphically as item #1 in realOEM as .. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_0082 But no mention as to how these 2 tanks are connected or how the lower tank is routed to the headlights/fog light spray nozzles. The ETM shows a headlight washer cleaning module (6167.0-02) and a pump - I have yet to determine where this module is located and assume that the pump is located in the lower tank.. As I'd like to determine if the headlamp/for cleaner is working .. Does anyone have information as how to .. 1) access and remove the lower tank? 2) how it is connected to the spray nozzles? Any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you

Just went thru this on my son's 95 e34 530iT (with 110k Km on the clock) The symptoms were the same as what you are experiencing. The motor and regulator were the originals (regulator riveted in). disconnected the electrical connection to the motor and using a multi-meter determined that I have voltage and the switches worked etc. Keep in mind that both (console and door) window switches need to be in place to test. Before replacing the assembly (at least here in Canada the pass/rear motor isn't available separately) I figured with nothing to lose I removed the "magnet can" which is held on with qty 2. T25 screws and this exposed the armature and motor brushes. I found that I could rotate the armature by hand ( you could see that the regulator would move "very" slowly) indicating that the worm gear was ok. I did remove the motor brushes and then remove/clean the armature, lube and reassemble using contact cleaner on the motor brushes . I did find reassemble of the armature a bit of a pain as the shaft is going into a blind bushing you end up with a "air trap". Reassembled the "can" also made sure the window regulator slides we free and clear, lubricated (the existing lube was dried out and somewhat hard). With the door card off I attached the door window switch and applied power to the motor - I had success! Now while I removed the armature and brushes to clean - reassembly of the brushes was a bit of a pain as the springs are small - easy to drop and as well the "clip" is plastic - in hind sight if I had to do this again I'd try the contact cleaner on its own first before taking the brushes and armature out but the commutator is somewhat hidden. Hope this is somewhat helpful..

Hopefully the forum fully comes comes back as I always found people here helpful. We have a Canadian car 04/95 build Chasing a few electrical items (nothing major) checking fuses - but noticed...I have a copy of the ETM which shows fuse 22 as 30A, Bentley shows Fuse 22 as 30A ... BUT.. The lid of the front power distribution box shows fuse 22 as 20A. For what it is worth the car has a 30A installed (PO?) but the fuse is obviously "newer" than others installed in the box. As well.. there are 2 images of the front power distribution box shown in Bentley - one is for 89/90 the other is 91/94 - neither appear the same as the one in the car. Just wanting to identify relays. Thank you in advance